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  • Bose System integration

    Hey guys! New user here!

    I have my car PC set up in my 06 G35, but even at full blast, the volume is about half what it used to be capable of. Whats the deal? Here's what i did

    I went from the 1/8 inch outputs on the back of the carpc and spliced the cables and went into the bose amp inputs. I used all 4 channels so I can fade and pan. I also have a sub attached to the car pc.

    Heres what i have heard from others and from searches:
    most stock HU that use bose amps use a higher level ouput (3v) than standard line level outputs. What can I do? Perhaps some in-line level amps? Please let me know if there is a product you guys prefer, or perhaps a different method all together for connecting a carpc straight to a Bose amp. Thanks

  • #2
    welcome!

    Originally posted by Dimaman View Post
    What can I do? Perhaps some in-line level amps? Please let me know if there is a product you guys prefer
    any line amp will work-- i would recomend one that has a variable level adjustment (most of them do) so you can adjust it to the best input to the amp. i am finding that the car pc volume takes to long to adjust, so i will be using a couple of the jl audio cl-rlc's.
    My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
    "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


    next project? subaru brz
    carpc undecided

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    • #3
      I have a 2001 Pathfinder with factory Bose system. I removed the head unit and found the same problem you have. My aftermarket Alpine head unit did not produce the same volume levels the Bose head unit did. It is because the factory system has an output voltage that I believe is in the 5 volt range.

      Now, I run my head unit and computer audio output through an old Precision Power PAR-225 in dash EQ preamp. This has built in line driver with 9 volt peak to peak output. This works extremely well and I have full control over the volume in addition to 5 bands of EQ. A good quality line driver like this does not increase distortion and in most cases, cleans up the sound because you are not pushing the outputs of your sound card as hard. This was considered an audiophile piece in the 1990's. I bought mine used for $75. Audio Control makes a good quality unit with similar features called the Four.1i. It sells for about $225.00 new. Precision Power also made another model, the PAR-245 that has similar features. They come up for sale on Ebay periodically. In general, you want to find a unit with voltage output capability of at least 4 volts RMS. You also want a unit with a built in switching power supply to reduce the probability of alternator noise causing problems. Cheaper units may not have a decent power supply. The PPI and Audio Control units do. I have used both and can recommend them without reservation. The older PPI unit has DIN connectors and if you are not handy with a soldering iron, you should look for the PAR 245 or Audio Control unit because they use conventional RCA connectors.

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