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Building a Fiberglass enclosure

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  • Building a Fiberglass enclosure

    I am building a fiberglass enclosure that hold 3 10" Subwoofers. One is a Kicker Comp 10, and the other two are Pioneer Competition Series Subwoofers. The fiberglass enclosure I plan to build will not only house the 3 subs, but will hold 2 amps and 2 capacitors. I am still really confused about porting or not. In general the fiberglass enclosure will be relatively large, I am putting it in the back of a Ford Explorer and will probably take half to 3/4 of the trunk space. So what I need to know is if I should port the box or not. And if I should port it can you explain why so I can further understand it? Thanks

  • #2
    Why are you mixing subs? That's the first major no-no. Secondly, what's your goals out of the system? Judging by the sub choice, I'm guessing you just want loud. Thirdly, why are you using bandaids... I mean caps?
    Play with it, 'til it's broke.


    • #3
      like klown said, mixing subs is a horrible idea-- all speaker manufacturers make a speaker with different expectations, price goals, and materials of different standards. now, i am not saying that one brand builds higher quality subs than another, but the way that the speakers are made require different types/strenths of materials... mixing subs will give you a very inconsistant sound quality-- it is very likely that the speakers will cancel each other out at certain frequencies or they might amplify other certain frequencies...

      then there is using 3 subs: 3 sub setups are slightly complex, and require a lot of planning before implementing them, otherwise you could damage the subs, or amps because of incorrect resistance...

      also, the sub box will determine how the subs sound. Period. if you have a poorly built/too small/too large/incorrectly ported box, it will make the sub sound like junk-- and this will hold true for a $5 or a $5,000 sub.

      there are many programs out there that can give you idea of how the sub will sound with different box configurations. i would highly recommend modeling everything in the program first before making any cuts-- so you have a idea how much airspace the subs really need...

      IMO, one of the best free ones is win-isd. i prefer ProBox 5, but only because it is a little easier to use, but it is not free, and does not use as many parameters as win isd, so is slightly less accurate.

      capacitors are a like a bandaid on a severed limb-- your only covering up the problem: if you correctly setup your system, for both the power and ground side, you should not need caps at all, and should not have any problems with light dimming.

      also, in case you have not noticed, this forum is mainly dedicated to car computers, so you might get some different or better information from one of the many car audio forums out there--if your not sure where to start, there is a sticky at the top of this forum with a list of some of the more common ones. feel free to stick around and learn a little bit about putting a computer in a mobile environment though!
      My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
      "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"

      next project? subaru brz
      carpc undecided