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  • causes of lights dimming...

    First, lemme describe my setup:

    m1-atx powered computer (so max 90W)
    ~300W-ish amp powering 2 12" subs
    xenarc in-dash MDT-X7000 ~55W x 4 (220W ?)

    Even with no signal going to the amp, I get random power drops and the lights dim. It happens randomly in several minute intervals.

    Looking at the specs for the xenarc, if it truely is 220W, I'm only powering it via the stock HU +12 connection which can't be very high gauge wire. Could that be the cause of my lights dimming?
    Former author of LinuxICE, nghost, nobdy.
    Current author of Automotive Message Broker (AMB).
    Works on Tizen IVI. Does not represent anyone or anything but himself.

  • #2
    If that monitor truly takes 220W @12v (18+ Amps), then there is something seriously screwy with Xenarc engineers...

    If you keep it in neutral or clutch depressed, whatever and then rev the engine and maintain it does the problem still happen?
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    • #3
      Originally posted by 2k1Toaster View Post
      If that monitor truly takes 220W @12v (18+ Amps), then there is something seriously screwy with Xenarc engineers...
      That Xenarc unit has a motorized screen, built in DVD player and 55Wx4 amplifier. 220w and 18+ amps sounds about right.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by 2k1Toaster View Post
        If that monitor truly takes 220W @12v (18+ Amps), then there is something seriously screwy with Xenarc engineers...

        If you keep it in neutral or clutch depressed, whatever and then rev the engine and maintain it does the problem still happen?
        I can try. It seems to happen if I'm idle (800rpms) or moving (2000). It'll be hard to test because it happens randomly. I'd have to rev my engine for a long time (5-10mins).

        The touchscreen's speaker amp is rated at 55W x4, so maybe add an amp to power the actual LCD...
        Former author of LinuxICE, nghost, nobdy.
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        • #5
          Originally posted by Machinehead View Post
          That Xenarc unit has a motorized screen, built in DVD player and 55Wx4 amplifier. 220w and 18+ amps sounds about right.
          Aah. I didnt bother to check out the link I had in my mind just a regular screen molded in there. Well then, that could be a source of your problems, most cars are electrically limited to 15A or so on the stock wiring harness, but who knows.

          Originally posted by kev000 View Post
          I can try. It seems to happen if I'm idle (800rpms) or moving (2000). It'll be hard to test because it happens randomly. I'd have to rev my engine for a long time (5-10mins).
          Burn those fossil fuels!!!
          Fusion Brain Version 6 Released!
          1.9in x 2.9in -- 47mm x 73mm
          30 Digital Outputs -- Directly drive a relay
          15 Analogue Inputs -- Read sensors like temperature, light, distance, acceleration, and more
          Buy now in the MP3Car.com Store

          Comment


          • #6
            Oh, dispite the claims of 55W x 2, the specs also claim a power draw of 120W. Whatever that means...

            Forgive my ignorance, but if it tried to pull more than 15A, wouldn't the fuse pop? I remember having to replace the fuse a few times. It's either 15A or 20A...
            Former author of LinuxICE, nghost, nobdy.
            Current author of Automotive Message Broker (AMB).
            Works on Tizen IVI. Does not represent anyone or anything but himself.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by kev000 View Post
              Oh, dispite the claims of 55W x 2, the specs also claim a power draw of 120W. Whatever that means...

              Forgive my ignorance, but if it tried to pull more than 15A, wouldn't the fuse pop? I remember having to replace the fuse a few times. It's either 15A or 20A...
              That's marketing!


              But yes, if you pull more than a fuse is rated for, for more than the time it's rated for that current, it will pop. Also... as I've said (to you :P) before.... running off the factory wiring, even though the fuse is rated for it is never a good idea, they a lot of times under-size the wires because they know they'll never pull that much. It's not enough to cause a fire, but enough to cause a voltage drop across the wire. I'm not sure if that would cause headlight dimming... but it's certainly not good.
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              • #8
                Originally posted by kev000 View Post
                Oh, dispite the claims of 55W x 2, the specs also claim a power draw of 120W. Whatever that means...

                Forgive my ignorance, but if it tried to pull more than 15A, wouldn't the fuse pop? I remember having to replace the fuse a few times. It's either 15A or 20A...
                More than likely it can put out 55W max on both channels (110W) and then the additional 10W is for heat and other various components to make it happen. Rather normal.

                And if you pull more than 15A on a 15A fuse, ideally it would blow. Not always though. There is generally a percentage range on the fuses where it just gets hot but doesnt blow.
                Fusion Brain Version 6 Released!
                1.9in x 2.9in -- 47mm x 73mm
                30 Digital Outputs -- Directly drive a relay
                15 Analogue Inputs -- Read sensors like temperature, light, distance, acceleration, and more
                Buy now in the MP3Car.com Store

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by kev000 View Post
                  Oh, dispite the claims of 55W x 2, the specs also claim a power draw of 120W. Whatever that means...

                  Forgive my ignorance, but if it tried to pull more than 15A, wouldn't the fuse pop? I remember having to replace the fuse a few times. It's either 15A or 20A...
                  I wonder if the fuse has gone bad but hasn't popped, so the circuit is still drawing intermittently.

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                  • #10
                    how do your battery terminals look? if they have any corrosion, the car can do wierd things. also, do you have the vent selector knob on defrost? this can also cause it if the a/c pump is drawing a lot

                    i really don't think that it has to do with the audio/computer system at all though-- audio stuff really only draws heavy when you have it turned up. but to prove it, you can pull the fuse(s) for all your carputer/amps, and the problem should still be there.
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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by soundman98 View Post
                      how do your battery terminals look? if they have any corrosion, the car can do wierd things. also, do you have the vent selector knob on defrost? this can also cause it if the a/c pump is drawing a lot

                      i really don't think that it has to do with the audio/computer system at all though-- audio stuff really only draws heavy when you have it turned up. but to prove it, you can pull the fuse(s) for all your carputer/amps, and the problem should still be there.
                      My old battery was *badly* corroded. Some of the corrosion likely travelled up the battery cable a bit. Could that be the cause?
                      Former author of LinuxICE, nghost, nobdy.
                      Current author of Automotive Message Broker (AMB).
                      Works on Tizen IVI. Does not represent anyone or anything but himself.

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                      • #12
                        If its that intermittant it doesn't sound like a current problem.

                        Shake the car a little bit and see if that causes the problem...or do a few passes over a speedbump.
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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by justchat_1 View Post
                          If its that intermittant it doesn't sound like a current problem.

                          Shake the car a little bit and see if that causes the problem...or do a few passes over a speedbump.
                          It'll happen when I'm parked, so I don't think it's something loose. Also, speedbumps don't trigger it.
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                          Current author of Automotive Message Broker (AMB).
                          Works on Tizen IVI. Does not represent anyone or anything but himself.

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                          • #14
                            Our Honda Pilot has some kind of system that kicks on and off even at idle. I used to think it was air conditioning but now it's winter and it will still do it. It's related to the climate control system, almost like it's an air exchanger so it works either hot or cold.

                            Anyhow, when it does pop on, you can tell the engine is under load, then it will pop off. Cycles like that all the time.

                            Try with the heater and all electrical OFF (as much as you can) including seat heaters, fan, even put the climate control at cold. See if it does it then. At least that would eliminate one variable.
                            Originally posted by ghettocruzer
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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Bugbyte View Post
                              Our Honda Pilot has some kind of system that kicks on and off even at idle. I used to think it was air conditioning but now it's winter and it will still do it.
                              With the defroster on i'm guessing? cause an a/c compressor is the only thing that should be causing varying engine load at idle.

                              @kev:
                              see if you can can try keeping the revs up...maybe a highway drive or something...and see if it still occurs (like 2k1Toaster said).
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