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Amp remote on via serial control, protect mode - should I worry?

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  • Amp remote on via serial control, protect mode - should I worry?

    I've just fitted a PAC-TR4 to my installation, using an RS232 port for control - and my own software activating the DTR line on Pin 4.

    Everything is working just about as intended - except for a bug not actually shutting the DTR line down on Shutdown, but that's easily solved.

    One thing I've noticed is that during the CarPC power-up, my amps seems to flash their 'Protect' light 3 times and then once more for a much longer period of time just as the DTR line is activated before successfully powering on.

    The amp Remotes are chained, so the Remote from the PAC-TR4 goes to Amp1, and there's another Remote wire going from Amp1 to Amp2.

    Is this 'Protect' mode light flashing normal behaviour, or common as a result of a relay trigger like the TR-4?
    KimmyBean> Stu, you know that cybersex we had?
    KimmyBean> I'm pregnant!

  • #2
    so are the amps connected directly to the serial port? i thought that part of using a serial port as a trigger was to also use a relay to try to isolate the serial port from the amps-- from what i have read, some ports are all over the place on voltage output.
    My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
    "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


    next project? subaru brz
    carpc undecided

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    • #3
      No the amps aren't connected to the serial port, they're connected to the remote live from a PAC-TR4 relay

      The serial port (Pin 4) is connected to the TR-4 via the low voltage input
      The TR-4 'Battery' is coming from the CarPC PSU (Remote On line)
      The TR-4 Ground is going to the car shell
      The TR-4 Remote is going to the amps

      Does that make more sense?
      KimmyBean> Stu, you know that cybersex we had?
      KimmyBean> I'm pregnant!

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      • #4
        ah, the pactr4 connections might be your problem--for reference, what i used for my info:
        http://www.discountcarstereo.com/detail.aspx?ID=1408

        the tr4 needs 12v constant on the yellow line(from the battery-- should always have 12v, regardless of carpc being on/off), ground connected on the black line, green line is the trigger input(carpc psu connected here), and blue line going out to your amps.
        My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
        "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


        next project? subaru brz
        carpc undecided

        Comment


        • #5
          Connecting the green to the CarPC PSU wouldn't solve my problem

          I'd still end up with a thump as the Amps would be powered when the CarPC turns on... and I need them to be powered when software tells it that's it is safe to do so (IE after the soundcard has powered up)...this is why the RS232 port is connected to the green wire.

          Connecting the TR-4 live directly to the battery I can do... I just figured seeing as I already had a 12v via the PSU remote wire it made sense to use that as the 12v would be supplied as soon as the CarPC got power.

          Anyway, apart from the flashing lights ... the startup sequence is perfectly fine.
          I can't get the relay to trigger off though when the CarPC receives the shutdown signal which means I still have thump on shutdown
          KimmyBean> Stu, you know that cybersex we had?
          KimmyBean> I'm pregnant!

          Comment


          • #6
            whoops, about the green line--thats what i meant, and what i was thinking, it just didn't come out that way

            anyways, look at the tr4 as a headunit-- all headunits need constant power, constant ground, and a switched line-- same as the tr4.

            i think that is part of the problem, and is causing the tr4 to freak out every time power is applied-- it has to realise that it is supposed to activate the remote out, and connecting the 12v constant to the ign line might not be allowing the tr4 to turn on properly.


            i will try to make this next part easy, but probably won't sound that way:

            for the turn off pop, i wonder if you look into adding a relay to the remote line, that is activated by the ign line.

            this way, the relay is engaged when you turn the car on, completes the amps remote line signal to the serial port, and allows the ampcntrl program to turn the amps on.

            when you turn the car off, the relay will also turn off, turning off your amps before the computer starts to shut down, getting rid of the chance that you will have a turn off pop.
            My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
            "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


            next project? subaru brz
            carpc undecided

            Comment


            • #7
              Well, I had a meter on the relay, and it seems the RS232 port is constantly pushing out 11.5v on both the DTR and RTS lines.

              I stumbled on this as when I disabled my application and ampctrl - the amps still kicked in! Maybe I should just go low-tech and put a switch on the dash instead! :/
              KimmyBean> Stu, you know that cybersex we had?
              KimmyBean> I'm pregnant!

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              • #8
                otherwise, search around for diesel timers-- they are not as precise as ampcontrol, but can delay the amp turn on until after the computer is "supposed" to have finished booting.
                My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
                "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


                next project? subaru brz
                carpc undecided

                Comment

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