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Active X-over with front Components

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  • Active X-over with front Components

    I have my system in (temporarily) and I currently have passive crossovers. I want to go to an active setup and this will be the first time I have tried this. I have connected everything as shown below and I don't really want to use up the 4 channel amp's second 2 channel just for tweets. It is a fairly robust amp and I would like to leave it driving the rear channels especially since my goal is 5.1.
    So how much amp would I need just to drive 2 tweeters up front even if I upgrade them to a more substantial tweeter eventually?

    My 2007 Ford F350 Work Log located HERE

  • #2
    Mine are on 75W RMS and i have to have them turned down way lower than the mids. You can run tweets on a very small amp really, they don't draw a lot of power.
    Progress: ~99%
    Fitted, Running.
    boot install to tidy when better weather arrives

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    • #3
      i prefer to use a single 4 channel amp for bi-amping components-- imo, this is a easier way to keep control over the sound quality aspect of the amp--all 4 speakers will have the exact same thd, distortion, and wattage-- which should allow for a little more even sound.
      My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
      "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


      next project? subaru brz
      carpc undecided

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      • #4
        I kind of agree with you Soundman98 from a logical set up point of view, but like Frugmonkey says, tweeters need such little power. The 4ch amp has 139 watts per channel for my 4 speakers. What a shame to take 2 of those channels and put them on tweeters then leave me looking to amp the rears with something else.
        It's never easy, is it? A little three channel amp would be perfect, then I could eliminate the centre channel amp.
        I guess with that processor, leaving the front passive would be a dumb thing to do, right?
        My 2007 Ford F350 Work Log located HERE

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        • #5
          Active is the way I'm doing mine as well and the tweeter amp will only be 25W/channel which will be plenty. Even mids don't use much power if crossed over high enough.

          Just be sure that whatever amp you decide on has absolutely no turn on/off thump, audible or not. Any kind of low frequency (or even DC) spike will mechanically kill a tweeter very quickly. It's actually a good idea to install a crossover cap inline just to block the DC, or even a fast blow fuse.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by CanuckMark View Post
            Active is the way I'm doing mine as well and the tweeter amp will only be 25W/channel which will be plenty. Even mids don't use much power if crossed over high enough.

            Just be sure that whatever amp you decide on has absolutely no turn on/off thump, audible or not. Any kind of low frequency (or even DC) spike will mechanically kill a tweeter very quickly. It's actually a good idea to install a crossover cap inline just to block the DC, or even a fast blow fuse.
            Thanks for the info. The amp will be fed from the PH700 processor and currently the 2 amps running from it are not having a problem with turn on "thump" at all. I expect that it is designed to handle most of these issues so I should be good there.
            I guess I will start looking for a 2 channel amp 20-50 watts.
            My 2007 Ford F350 Work Log located HERE

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