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07 mustang system uprade

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  • 07 mustang system uprade

    This has been an on again off again project of mine, which is pretty common in this little hobby of ours. I'm going to break it into two parts for the sake of simplicity.

    Part 1 will consist of sound deadening the cabin. (doors, floor, back seat)

    Part 2 is where i get down to the nitty gritty and install the main equipment (speakers, processor, mac mini, etc.)


    Before I get started let me just say this place has given me a wealth of knowledge with which to accomplish this and that without I probably would have never thought installing a computer in your car possible let alone been able to execute such a thing


    PART 1 Sound Deadening

    Its no secret that Don from sounddeadenersshowdown.com is the go to guy for a lot hobbists around the web, and after long a tedious information gathering process i decided to pick up all my material from him.

    Per his recommendations i decided to go with the following

    Doors (each):
    5 CLD Tiles, outer skin
    2 CLD Tiles, probably cut into smaller pieces, inner skin
    7.6 ft² MLV
    7.6 ft² 1/4" CCF

    Floor:
    8 CLD Tiles
    28.9 ft² MLV
    28.9 ft² 1/4" CCF

    Back Seat Ledge /Riser:
    9 CLD Tiles
    14.4 ft² MLV
    14.4 ft² 1/8" CCF

    Totals:
    31 CLD Tiles
    58.5 ft² MLV
    44.1 ft² 1/4" CCF
    14.4 ft² 1/8" CCF
    1 8 oz can HH-66 Vinyl Contact Cement


    Door treatment steps
    1. Cleaned doors with alcohol

    2. Cut tiles into random sized pieces so as to spread around their effectiveness, no need to cover ever sq inch. peeled and applied to interior and exterior

    3. Following the tiles i closed off the large access holes with spare aluminum i found laying around. some have success using other material, but i like the aluminum because a. it was free and b. it was easy to shape and attach. I used self tapping screws and liquid nails just in case.

    4. Next i cut to size the mlv, which took significant care, cut holes for various door bolts, cables etc. and applied with contact cement (note: keep openings down to a minimum to maximize barriers effectiveness)

    5. Finally and cut the ccf and again cut holes for bolts, etc. i used the same vinyle cement to attach.


    Floor treatment steps
    1. same as before i cut tiles for floor applied sporadically, tapping floor with knuckle to listen for resonance.

    2. Cut 1/4" CCF to fit the bottoms of the floor pans and up into the foot
    wells and lay it in place. Gravity, the carpet and trim panels will hold everything in place

    3.Finally, i laid MLV on top of the CCF, extending up and over the center tunnel, sills and everywhere i could without interfering with trim panel replacement

    Back seat Treatment steps
    1. applied tiles
    2 cut ccf
    3 laid mlv

    I will say this, the back seat was perhaps the most difficult because of the various angles i had to tuck the material in, but all in all it was pretty straightforward in terms of the steps
    Attached Files
    My current setuphttp://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/work...d-mustang.html

  • #2
    Part 2

    Part 2

    heres what my system consists of

    3 way
    scanspeak tweeter
    dynaudio mw 150
    8" Peerless sls

    audison bitone
    alpine pdx f4
    mtx jh404

    hippo hifi bloat
    2010 mac mini
    lilliput 8" hdmi model

    custom rca cables

    So basically im keeping the soundstage up front and eliminating the factory deck speakers.
    For this particular install i decided to go stealth and keep things out of sight. My options were limited and i knew if i were to keep the processor and amps in the cabin they would have to go under the seats.

    My first step was to measure and be certain i had enough clearance for everything.
    After which i thought to myself how would i access the controls on the pdx amp in the event i wanted to make adjustments. I knew i didnt want to unbolt the seats, so i decided on a sliding mechanism. i wish i had more pictures for this, but its pretty simple. I retrofitted some brackets in order to lay the platform where the sliding braces would go. To give you guys an idea they're basically (but not quite) the same sliding braces you find on desks for the keyboards to pull out.

    as for the bitone that didnt really need the same treatment i just fabricated a little platform for it to sit on.

    i ran all cables under the carpet and color coded them using different color heatshrink

    i should mention that for this install im upgrading from the previous mac mini model, which fit snug in the center console compartment. this newer model is wider and although slimmer it still doesnt fit, so i temporarily have it seating on top

    the interesting thing about the mustang doors is that the factory woofers are attached to the door panels as opposed to the doors themselves. This is not exactly a big deal since the door panels are reinforced and not the typical flimsy variety.

    lastly i installed a relay behind the screen to power on the amps
    Attached Files
    My current setuphttp://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/work...d-mustang.html

    Comment


    • #3
      question

      So i know its been said that once you modify the new model mini for the car its permanent, but does anyone know of a solution to this problem, since i would like to bring it in the house for use. I toyed around with the idea of using an inverter for it in the car, but i kinda like powering it via my p2140.

      perhaps theres an external dc/ac converter brick i can use...but really i have no idea not my area of expertise


      thanks in advance
      My current setuphttp://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/work...d-mustang.html

      Comment

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