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Recommend an enclosure for my 10" Focal 25A1 subwoofer?

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  • Recommend an enclosure for my 10" Focal 25A1 subwoofer?

    I understand that sealed = tighter, more accurate bass, and for SPL, go with a ported/larger box, tho i am trying to find an enclosure that will be somewhere in the middle.

    according to the specs for the Focal 25A1 10" sub, it states:

    0.706 c. ft = fast and tight bass
    1.059 cu. ft = deep and articulate bass
    0.883 cu. ft = dynamic bass

    Can anyone recommend a middle-ground solution or product? I can't seem to find a box thats around the 0.883 cu. ft range. This range is likely a sealed box?? Will that sound too weak?

    Thanks
    2003 Mitsubishi Lancer CarPC Build Thread

  • #2
    keep in mind that in-car reflection also play a major roll on how a sub sounds, so only use those specs as a guideline-- the last kicker car audio guy i talked to said that he builds all of his boxes 2x's the size kicker recommends for good sound.. thoug i would expect focal to be on a much higher playing field.. if you can get a 0.75cu.ft box, use it or maybe get a 1cu/ft box, and make it smaller by adding wood to it.. or you can build your own .883 cu/ft box. the other thing is that the sub will take up space inside the box-- do they account for this, so it is a 'airspace-only' measurement, or does the backside of the sub still need to be taken into account... if it is airspace only, you might be able to get away with a 1.0 cu/ft box..

    it might be worthwhile to get a box building/sub modeling program like win-isd(free), or probox 5(i got mine off ebay) to model what the subs response looks like and pick the best box for your application.

    something i like to do that noticeably cuts down on in-box resonance is to line the walls with real fiberglass insulation. the last box i did, i got a roll of something like r25, cut the sheets to size, and then split every sheet, so the r value is closer to 10 on each wall. this was mostly so that it dampens the resonances, but still leaves enough physical airspace for the sub to breathe-- if you stuff too much insulation in there, it will suffocate the sub and make it sound worse..

    there is some debate on the sound quality difference between polyfill, and fiberglass insulation though.. i fully support fiberglass, even with it's itchy side-effects, and have a mostly-unused 25lb box of polyfill in my basement from when i tested it.. if you want to try it don't buy the big box , but if your near the chicagoland area, i would be happy to get rid of some of it..

    the whole reasoning behind this is that the insulation is supposed to convert the sound waves to very low-level heat-- by doing this, it is slowing down the sound wave, and and making the speaker have to fight itself less by slowing down, and many times, getting rid of the back wave of the speaker...
    My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
    "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


    next project? subaru brz
    carpc undecided

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    • #3
      Originally posted by soundman98 View Post
      keep in mind that in-car reflection also play a major roll on how a sub sounds, so only use those specs as a guideline-- the last kicker car audio guy i talked to said that he builds all of his boxes 2x's the size kicker recommends for good sound.. thoug i would expect focal to be on a much higher playing field.. if you can get a 0.75cu.ft box, use it or maybe get a 1cu/ft box, and make it smaller by adding wood to it.. or you can build your own .883 cu/ft box. the other thing is that the sub will take up space inside the box-- do they account for this, so it is a 'airspace-only' measurement, or does the backside of the sub still need to be taken into account... if it is airspace only, you might be able to get away with a 1.0 cu/ft box..

      it might be worthwhile to get a box building/sub modeling program like win-isd(free), or probox 5(i got mine off ebay) to model what the subs response looks like and pick the best box for your application.

      something i like to do that noticeably cuts down on in-box resonance is to line the walls with real fiberglass insulation. the last box i did, i got a roll of something like r25, cut the sheets to size, and then split every sheet, so the r value is closer to 10 on each wall. this was mostly so that it dampens the resonances, but still leaves enough physical airspace for the sub to breathe-- if you stuff too much insulation in there, it will suffocate the sub and make it sound worse..

      there is some debate on the sound quality difference between polyfill, and fiberglass insulation though.. i fully support fiberglass, even with it's itchy side-effects, and have a mostly-unused 25lb box of polyfill in my basement from when i tested it.. if you want to try it don't buy the big box , but if your near the chicagoland area, i would be happy to get rid of some of it..

      the whole reasoning behind this is that the insulation is supposed to convert the sound waves to very low-level heat-- by doing this, it is slowing down the sound wave, and and making the speaker have to fight itself less by slowing down, and many times, getting rid of the back wave of the speaker...
      Thanks man for again answering my questions

      I DLed copy of that software you recommended...I will pick up the materials tomorrow and start on the assembly of my enclosure.
      2003 Mitsubishi Lancer CarPC Build Thread

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