No announcement yet.

How to wire 2001 Toyota Corolla LE

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • How to wire 2001 Toyota Corolla LE

    Hey guys, I'm brand new to this forum and needing some help with wiring my brand new car audio system. I'm trying to do the installation myself and save some money. Here's what I'm working with.

    Previously installed Sony XPlod Head-Unit
    • 2 sets of Polk Audio DB651s, 6.5": RMS is 50W @ 4 ohms (per speaker)
      Want to wire those 4 speakers with a BOSS CW350 Chaos 400W 4-channel amp

    What guage wiring kit do I need for this, and how should I wire the connections?

    Additionally I want to wire a Alpine SWR 1243D 12" Type-R Subwoofer (RMS 300W @ 4 ohms x 2 coils) enclosed in a Scosche 12" ported enclosure

    Powered by:

    SSL F2.600 FORCE 600W 2-Channel MOSFET, says its 2 ohm stereo stable although my sub requires 4 ohms

    What wiring kit should I use for both of these installations, and will the amps work given the setup? Sorry for being the newbie here, but any help on this will be greatly appreciated.

  • #2
    1. this forum is primarily for installing computers in cars.
    2. the section you posted in is for products sold by mp3car..

    3. i could tell you the specific answer to all your audio questions, but you'll never learn anything if i do that. that would be fine for getting the system going, but if you ever have any problems, you would not know anything about why you connected it the way you did.

    so the general stuff you need to learn:

    1. power requirements:

    use a chart like this to determine your total power draw, and the wire size you'll need:

    2. connecting speakers/subs to amps:

    do you have the correct gauge speaker wire?

    see this image:

    3. ohms law. this needs to be understood to correctly connect the sub, and to verify that the other speakers are connected correctly-- because you have a dvc sub, there are actually 3 different ways to connect it.

    this response to a PM i got covers most of this:
    Originally posted by PM Response
    this deals with the speaker resistance.

    speakers use a round coil of wire-- called a voice coil. to create it, a single wire is wrapped around the voice coil part many times.

    the amount of times the wire gets wrapped around the voice coil determines how high the resistance is-- the more wire that gets wrapped around, the higher the resistance. the resistance to the power flowing through the wire, is measured in ohm's.

    in your case, your amp is capable of 2ohm loads--or, in other terms, a lower resistance then normal.
    no amp specs will ever say it, but it is always ok to connect a higher resistance then what is stated in the specs.

    to answer your question, the resistance that you connect to the amp is determined by the speakers-- there are no amp settings to change.

    but to further explain-- every setup has a advantage and disadvantage--for instance, you have 3 speakers, a 2 ohm speaker, 4 ohm speaker, and 8 ohm speaker.

    the 2 ohm speaker will be the loudest, but will sacrifice clarity--you will be able to hear the music, but it would lack some details.
    the 4 ohm speaker will be a little quieter, but will be have a more detailed sound then the 2 ohm speaker.
    the 8 ohm speaker will be even quieter, but will have much more detail then either the 2, or 4 ohm speakers.

    to further add to this, each step up in resistance will allow the amp to run cooler-- a 4ohm setup will run cooler then a 2 ohm setup, etc.

    as you can see, each speaker setup has a very specific advantages and disadvantages.

    and to even further confuse you, connecting speakers in series/parallel will change the resistance the amp sees.

    connecting two 4 ohm speakers in series will have a 8 ohm load at the amp.
    connecting two 4 ohm speakers in parallel will have a 2 ohm load at the amp.

    again, each has a advantage-- the 8 ohm layout will boost the sensitivity, and make some sounds a little clearer, but the 2 ohm layout will be much louder, at the cost of clarity.

    4. box type.

    have you gone over any of the sub parameters to make sure that the sub, box, and port are tuned correctly for each other?

    the box and port tuning can make your entire setup sound amazing, or can make it sound so horrible, $5 walmart junk would sound better..

    those are the main points for now

    and i am going to report this, so it gets moved to the car audio section-- where there is a better chance you'll get some other responses(albiet still limited because of this forums primary focus)
    My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
    "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"

    next project? subaru brz
    carpc undecided


    • #3
      moved to car audio...
      MY NEWEST INSTALL:modded infiniti fx with big screen

      first windows carpc liquid cooled LVDS screen :D