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  • New to Custom Audio, Need Help

    I ordered a full Type-R Alpine system for my 2005 Accord and I wanted to know if it's worth running new custom speaker wires from the trunk (where the amp will sit) to the speakers, or if I should just get some kind of adapter and plug into the factory harness.

    If the former, I should be good. I understand plenty about the way wiring works and such, if the latter, I need help finding a harness adapter. Everything I've seen looks to be an adapter for the AUX port in the back of the factory stereo & not something directly for the output.

    Any help is appreciated.

    -Zack

  • #2
    i always prefer to run new speaker wire.
    My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
    "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


    next project? subaru brz
    carpc undecided

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    • #3
      I was thinking that. It complicates the install but makes the wiring simple.


      -Ryven

      via iPhone

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      • #4
        i figured others would come in on the topic as well...

        i have tried installs both ways, and the amount you gain by installing your own wire makes the couple saturdays it takes to install it very worthwhile.
        My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
        "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


        next project? subaru brz
        carpc undecided

        Comment


        • #5
          Picked up some 14/2 (pair of 14awg wires in one jacket) wire for my speakers. Using 1/0awg for the feed to the trunk, 8awg for my DC-DC regulators & 4awg for the amp & sub.

          Now I have to teach myself how to build a sub enclosure.

          -Zack
          via Droid Charge

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          • #6
            Hey, Soundman,
            Would you recommend I activate the high pass filter in my amplifier at 30Hz so I don't waste watts sending bass to my 5 1/4s and 6x9s?
            This is a very interesting amp... many more features than I expected.

            -Zack
            via Droid Charge

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            • #7
              you said you would be installing a sub? if so, figure out what frequency range the sub covers, and then set the 5-1/4 speakers high pass for where the sub trails off. or, if you like it loud, figure out where the speakers can't keep up with the bass notes, and use that frequency for the crossover point.

              on my old setup-- some pioneer 5-1/4's, i had to run a 120hz crossover.
              on my new setup--some peerless hds mids, i run them at a 50hz crossover.


              in general, a good starting point for crossovers is about 80-100hz. depending on your setup, it could be higher or lower.
              My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
              "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


              next project? subaru brz
              carpc undecided

              Comment


              • #8
                It occurred to me that while I have purchased a sub, it may be a bit before I get my boxes built for the trunk. I was advised to do MDF for mounting and fiberglass for the body of the box. In the meantime, I will let my 6x9s handle the low frequencies until the sub gets hooked up. After some more research, it looks like the HPF is the best bet, but where to set it depends on the speakers.

                What do you have in your car right now, soundman?

                -Zack
                via Droid Charge

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                • #9
                  you mean in terms of settings or equipment?

                  in respect to your other part-- i always run a hp crossover esp. on any speaker smaller then 8", i would never run less then 50hz. most speakers smaller then 8" can't get any lower then about 50hz, so your really not missing any information. granted, you do loose some door-panel shaking bass, but nothing that is really audible.
                  My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
                  "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


                  next project? subaru brz
                  carpc undecided

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Haha. If it rattled my panels, I'd get ****ed and obsessively throw in layer after layer of sound deadening material until it stopped.

                    I'm curious about the hardware you use for audio, not the settings. I realize settings can be changed and weaker, hardware gets expensive.

                    -Zack
                    via Droid Charge

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                    • #11
                      i use a set of peerless hds 6.5" mids(the nomex cone, without phase plug-- it has a slightly smoother off-axis response), a set of dayton audio ND28F-6 1-1/8" tweeters--the extra 1/8" really helps smooth the tweeters out. i also run a pair of kicker cvr's in a too-small box.

                      at this time, i run a active setup, with the carpc doing all the audio routing and manipulation, with a alpine mrp-f350 4ch amp for the mids and highs, and a crummy sony 600w amp for the subs..

                      right now, i am wrapped up in some lighting mods, so because the sound system works but isn't perfect, it stays as-is until i have care more..

                      the current plan is to ditch both amps and subs for the jl hd series amps--a 600/4, and 750/1, and replace the subs with a single 10, or 12 in a correctly-sized box--unknown at this time-- i keep flopping between the w6, dayton referance series, and many other subs talked about on diyma-- i really haven't researched it, so it remains a unknown..
                      My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
                      "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


                      next project? subaru brz
                      carpc undecided

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Always use new wire. Car manufacturers use the cheapest stuff they can find.

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