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Amps for pioneers?

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  • Amps for pioneers?

    Hi all, I'm new here and I have a question. I have two 1000 watt rms (3500 max) pioneer TS-3002D4 subs. I was wondering what brand, how many rms, and how many amps I would need to power them without spending 500ish+ on each one. I'm thinking about two Alpine MRX-M1000, which retails 400 each or two Alpine MRP-M2000, at 700 each. I haven't checked yet, but I'm sure I can find them both cheaper on ebay. Thanks for the help, and let me know if I need to explain anything else

  • #2
    well you should really match the wattage of the amps to the subs some what close(Both RMS and Peak). If you go too high with the amp it could blow the sub, especially if your sub enclosure isn't built to the proper size. If you go too low you could burn up the amp. You must consider the impedance of the subs and amps. Most subs are single voice coil (SVC) or dual voice coil (DVC). You want to mach the impedance's well. Amps will not produce 1000watts @ 4 Ohms and do the same @ 2 Ohms. So for example. If you have a DVC sub that can handle 500watts RMS and 1000watts Peak and it has 4 Ohm voice coils then you want an amp that can match the wattage @ either 2 Ohms or 8 Ohms. impedance's. If the amp produces that at 2 Ohms then the voice coils need to be wired in parallel meaning that the output of the amp connects to both voice coils (+ from amp goes to both + on sub and same with the negatives). Now if the amp produces that wattage at 8 Ohms then the coils need to be wired in series meaning that the + of one coil connects directly to the - of the other coil and the connection from the amp connects to the remaining two connectors for the coils. Remember, wiring coils in parallel cut the impedance in half and wiring in series doubles the impedance. This also applies to connecting two subs to one channel on an amp. Also generally, the higher the impedance the better the sound quality. Remember that amps are most stable at a specific impedance so be sure to check that.
    Originally posted by Lincolnman
    Your English is fine, don't apologize. You're doing better than most Americans.


    • #3
      i wasn't going to comment on this-- i don't give amp recommendations because a large part of it is personal preference. many amp companies make amps of very similar specs-- the difference is in the details, which only you can decide which one best fit your needs.

      for the last time, you cannot burn up a amp by simply running one that has less output then what the speakers can take.

      it's like saying you'll blow your motor if you never run it more then 1/2 way open...

      driving a amp to distortion and keeping it there burns up amps--this is due to user error, not due to equipment.

      i have a set of 10" kicker comps(something like 75w rms, 125w max) that have been through both extremes.

      first, i ran them for 2 years with a 600watt sony amp-- so they were getting about 300 rms.

      second they have been divided for some other cars, and are being pushed by some tiny 35w rms amps that i had laying around.

      to this day, both subs work just as good as they did out of the box, and i have never burned up a amp due to overpowering/underpowering them.(i did burn up 3 amps and a HU due to a shorted rca cable though)...

      it is true that it is best to match the values for the most reliable performance, but with careful setup, you can stray from those values..
      My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
      "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"

      next project? subaru brz
      carpc undecided