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New setup.. More problems than I have ever run into... HELP! going on week 4.. :(

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  • New setup.. More problems than I have ever run into... HELP! going on week 4.. :(

    Okay, so I have:

    1-Alpine Type-R DVC 2ohm(600-1000rms/3000peak).
    1-(Before return was, MB Quart onyx 1000.1D) Kenwood 9105D(>[email protected])
    1- 4awg full kit.
    1-Alpine Type-R tuned box, though at 38hz, killer hard.

    Here we go..

    First thing with the MB Quart, I came from a kenwood 8103D(still running, in gfs car, pushed my alpine at 1ohm..) never had an issue with the 8103D. My MB, I blew fuses being dumb.. Then after 2 weeks.. My speaker output seemed to go out.. I got another one Monday. I installed it, no sound ever. I said well.. I don't know about MB now. I got my kenwood today. Installed it and everything. It played a few notes I was stoked. Then stopped. The light indicator for POWER, isn't illuminated but the blue panel light is? I checked the fuses on the amp, all straight. I have 4 of the same amperage laying around for my cars fuse box. So I asked a friend on Teamspeak tonight, he said. Check the inline fuse, may be seated weird. Also to see if it is my ground, by wiring the ground straight to the battery. He is who made a tablet indash and posted apparently on this forums.

    I have the inline 3' from battery, then wire run left side of car to the amp. The ground is located where when I was new to this all, Bestbuy set it. He stated that 4awg seemed large(my friend on TS). My ground is under my seat on a grinded area for straight to chassis, could the carpeting be interfering? I just can't wrap my finger around this, but my weeks are getting old with this problem on my shoulders.

    I drive a 1997 Saab 900se, 2dr hatchback. If you think my cars old to run this much. I don't get light dimming and didn't when the setup worked.

    My Wiring kits the EFX by scosche. I love their RCA'S for as cheap as they are. The insulation gives zero engine/anything noise.

    Any help in this crap situation with my finances. Would be wonderfully appreciated.


  • #2
    Hopefully you don't mean there is carpet between the ground lug and the chassis...

    The setup otherwise seems ok except that the sub may be rated less than the amp - ie, 900W output (limited) into 1 Ohm, but I saw various values for the sub wattage (300-600W, 750W etc).
    And the 4G seems ok (you can never have "too large" wiring - except for weight & cost & physical size).
    And BTW - only Watts RMS (aka "Watts") counts - ignore peak ratings and ensure specs are provided as RMS - all other "types" of Watts are rubbish and useless. [ By definition, Watts is RMS, but once upon a time marketeers started using "music power" (= "peak" Watts = 2x Watts RMS) as they knew it would fool buyers. Since then, new "peaks" have been invented (some are up to 10x RMS values). And now we have an industry that uses bullsh terms like "Continuous Audio Power" because they reckon "Watts RMS" is a misnomer. Yes it is, Watts is "Watts RMS", but how tf can people specify that their Watts is NOT some peak arbitrary value value? So let's invent a new "continuous" term without definition that confuses "program" power with electrical power etc etc. Watts is simple - it is how much a resistor heats up; it can only have one value for a given output. Sorry for the ramble, but if you have seen the endless and contradictory crap I have seen on this issue. I guess it keeps the under informed something to become expert in... ]

    A DMM (voltmeter) may be your best bet. Check the voltage at the amp under load and work back to the battery if there is a problem.

    Sorry if I missed something obvious - I'm pre-coffee and in a rush...


    • #3
      what deck are you running, and what model sub/ if dvc, what resistance does the amp see?

      4ga for 1kw rms is really kind of small imo.. typically, the wire run is around 16ft..
      My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
      "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"

      next project? subaru brz
      carpc undecided


      • #4
        I forgot to say that 4G drops about 0.07 Ohms per meter at 90A (for a 900W output) which I didn't think was too bad.
        That should mean ~ 0.2V for a 4m (13') 4G run to a 900W output amp at full power.
        That means ~0.4V total drop if using a 4G to the batt- as a GND, though IMO the chassis should used for GND and thereafter a cable added if the chassis alone is insufficient. (But usually much shorter lengths of heavier gauge else parallel 4G cables is used to and from the chassis for a better outcome. And if an amp's chassis or GND is not solidly bonded to its surrounding compartment, it should be an isolated system.)

        0G is ~0.03V per m per 90Amps, hence would roughly halve the 4G's voltage losses.