No announcement yet.

audio wiring in Mk IV Jetta w/ monsoon

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • audio wiring in Mk IV Jetta w/ monsoon

    Ok, so since I am looking at going total carputer and remove the HU, I was trying to figure out the wiring scheme. This is what I was thinking, remove all stock stereo wiring, and re-wire it. I was planning on also removing the monsoon amp/crossover in the trunk being that I am mounting my box for my 2 10" subs and 2 12" subs in that area behind the rear seat.

    From here, I would install the 1000W amp that I will be powering the subs with. This amp would get it's own RCA connection from the sound card in the computer. or even an RCA splitter if I can't find a soundcard w/ 2 RCA-out.

    The other RCA connection would go to a new 4 channel amp for the 8 interior speakers. This is where I get a little stumped. My problem is that I am not sure how to crossover after the signal splits at each of the 4 doors. I would like to install some sort of high-pass crossover on the line that splits going to the tweeders in each door.

    Example: the wire for the front-left door. I would use 1 signal wire that would be spliced. one splice going to the 2-way speaker in the bottom of the door, the other splice going to the tweeder near the window.

    I can not figure out how to cut the mid-range sound out and only allow the high-range signal to get to the tweeders, but allow the mid-range and highs to reach the 2-way speakers.

    Does anyone have any idea how to do this or am I making this FAR too difficult?


  • #2
    Speaker wire ---------- Crossover -----(mid) ------ Midbass woofer
                      |                | (high)
            2 Way Speaker          Tweeter
    If I understood you correctly, that's it?

    That's what a typical crossover looks like. Some are just Tweeter & Woofer.

    Problem is you'll need 4, and they can get pricey.
    Audio Rockford Fosgate: 900 Watt 4-channel amp, 501bd Mono amp
    Computer AMD 2400+ XP, 1 GB DDR RAM, Orbit Micro 250W DC-DC PSU

    Head units are for cheaters!
    sure some girls fake orgasms.....but it's guys like me who fake the whole relationship


    • #3
      Just how much do these run on avg? I figured it would be kinda pricey but are we talking like $75-100 each or like $200-300 each? Would be kinda nice if i could just find an 8-Channel amp w/ a crossover built in for each line-out, but I am just not that lucky.


      • #4
        it might even be easier and cheaper to do 2 4-channel amps split off the same RCA line-out with one of them going for just the tweeters and one going for just the 2-ways... though I would probably need to buy better tweeders and better 2-ways as well


        • #5
          My install

          Originally posted by HeX111
          it might even be easier and cheaper to do 2 4-channel amps split off the same RCA line-out with one of them going for just the tweeters and one going for just the 2-ways... though I would probably need to buy better tweeders and better 2-ways as well
          I have (had - ripped the POS out) monsoon system in my MKIV Jetta. I used a 4 channel amp to power all 8 speakers. It took a hella long time to trace and re-wire all the leads! I spent about 4-5 hours just soldering (but I suck at soldering). Do you have a moonsoon "box" in the back?
          My Install Thread

          MKIV VW Jetta
          How do I get sound to my car?


          • #6
            yeah, I have the little black monsoon box/amp/crossover in my trunk, that will be going to about the same place the rest of that deck is going, the trash after I use the deck as a template for the top frame of my box...


            • #7
              I'm sick of my soldered wires. I would like to extend the wires. Is there a wiring harness that plugs into the back where the monsoon black box plugged into?
              My Install Thread

              MKIV VW Jetta
              How do I get sound to my car?


              • #8
                Is there a reason you wish to rewire the car? I cant imagine replacing all that wire! I cant imagine there being any benefit worth doing such a thing! the resistance of the stock wiring is such that larger wire really isnt gonna do anything for you! Find one person who burned their wire with aftermarket equipment.... noone is stupid enough to run 350 rms through the stock wiring unless its a very very short distance, and if anyone burned using less power, find out how shoddy their wiring was, it was probbaly a short!

                two tens, two twelves, and eight midranges. wow, you've got alot going on in your car! But isnt it a little overkill? It seems to me that by adding so many speakers, the resonance issues multiple source points could actually damage your quality of sound more than help it!

                I would reccommend a different path. Two tens, two twelves, eight speakers, with or without tweeters, amplification to power it all, including sub-bass drivers. thats ALOT of money! not to mention all teh money you were just willing to spend on rewiring your whole car... let me suggest something different!

                sink all that money, all of it into just a pair of component speakers, a pair or three of identical subwoofers, and enough power for it all. Think about it! if you bought $100 speakers, times eight, That means youd have a budget of eight HUNDRED dollars to sink into a component set! talk about a potentially good set!

                With that kind of money into a set, wisely chosen to suit your music desires, you will get all the volume capability that your idea with two tens, two twelves, and eight speakers-with or without tweeters would be capable of. Furthermore, you will not have the same imaging problems of multiple point sources, you wont have cancellation issues tdue to phasing of different drivers, you wont have to worry about setting crossover points for EVERY driver in the car.. its just win/win!

                Same idea with subbass, but even more severe of a benefit, from a volume/phasing point of view. different subwoofers (even of hte same size, but especially of different sizes) powered by the same amplifier (and thus the same crossover settings) is going to have ALL SORTS of phase issues! ever hear what a 60 Hz sinkhole in frequency response sounds like? you might, if you put all that in yoru car! most definitely you will find your quality of sound in the accoustical transparrency department suffers immensly.

                so why 8 speakers to begin with? its all a ploy from the car companies, to sell cars! two speakers is good? well, four has to be better, right? how about 6? 8? 12? if its got more speakers, its gotta be way better! Well.... maybe not always the case.... Definitely not in a musical scenario, where all signals are recorded in TWO channels! ... left.... right.... front and rear never even play into it! much less... rear high? rear surround? front upper? front lower? I can't imagine what they even title the speaker locations!

                in the end, it will be all up to you. maybe you can somehow defeat the phasing issues you are going to have with so many speakers. certainly you will NEED a second amplifier to power your different sized subwoofers in order to eliminate potential phase issues. most definitely. Some people just prefer to have teh sound stage sit at a single point inside their head, to eliminate environment entirely from quality of sound. If you are like that, thats cool, maybe you should indeed consider cramming a speaker in every location VW gave you. maybe even add a couple more, in kick panel areas etc!

                But I cant reccommend enough how I personally beleive you willg et the highest benefit from sinking such a large amount of cash into few speakers to achieve a greater environmental sound, more accoustical transparrency, maybe even able to image an instrumental location or two.


                • #9
                  for more complete information, rather than this glazing over, I would reccomend checking out christopher everts site, He is an excelent writer, and very well educated and experienced in his field of study


                  a link on absolute phasing and its affect on sound quality


                  • #10
                    What would I need in order to do away with the head unit (like HeX111 did) and then use my carputer to play MP3s through my factory speakers?


                    • #11
                      Chances are, if you have factory amplifiers, that the connection for input is quite easy. Look up your vehicle wiring diagram. I believe put back up the universal vehicle wiring database.

                      If your car stereo has factory amplifeirs, and in the wiring diagram there is a wire for amp turn on, remote turn on, something of that nature, then you will very easily be able to remove the stock radio.

                      the outs on the radio, if it is fully amped externally, will be at a preout voltage, so the speaker outs on the diagram become your line level ins directly from the sound card. Then, you can simply rewire remote on to the car's ignition, also found in the wiring diagram. this will turn on the amplifiers with the car, and let the computer be the audio source.

                      If your car does not have factory amplifiers, or if some speakers are amplified by the radio itself, you will need to invest in an aftermarket amplifier in order to drive them. there are several out there to be had for a reasonable price, and will work just fine using ignition as the remote turn on source.

                      any other questions/clarification?


                      • #12
                        Thanks for the quick reply. No more questions for now.


                        • #13
                          Read This - All The Info U Need

                          Alright guy here, but filled with tons of knowledge on the topic, so listen up and save lots of time and money.

                          First off, to address the splitting issue all the way at the top with the crossovers and stuff....trash it. WAY TOO OVERTHOUGHT. All 8 speakers come back on individual leads to the pins 1-16 in the green plug of the amp. Pins 17-23 are power and other stuff. All your connections are waiting for you in one plug at the amp. The gray plug is input from the deck @ low level.
                          Also by the way....THERE IS NO TURN ON WIRE FOR THE AMP!!! It works off of a DC offset principle. When the amp detects DC offset on the input lines, a.k.a. MUSIC, it turns on....kind of like the amps with smart-on technology.

                          Next, the midrange speakers are 2 ohm speakers. The are designed almost like bandpass. 80 or 120 hz thru about 300 is all they're good for really. Then the tweets are 4 ohm, and their range is a given...high and higher. You need to be good with the ohm loads to make everything work right.

                          There are several options.....(1) buy 2 sets of component speakers, mount them and connect the crossovers in the trunk...done. (2) Leave the OEMs and run the midranges off a 4ch amp, and the tweets of a 4ch amp...still a lot of money....and takes longer. (3) Run the midranges off the 4ch amp, and goto a local shop and buy capacitors (a.k.a. bass blockers) to cut the frequency to the tweets, and run them from a headunit if u want....etc

                          Regarding a wire harness for the factory amp plugs....It doesn't exist unless you make one. I bought a monsoon amp off ebay for $20, and desoldered the plug from the board. It took me about 10 minutes to map the wires using a tone generator, and a 9v battery for polarity. I will be happy to share the wiring code for those me if you want.


                          • #14
                            All good points by agent418. Make sure to check out this thread on the vortex for more hints etc linky