Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Optima VS Stinger Batteries

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Optima VS Stinger Batteries

    Ok, so this will probably get flamed but it should be fun.

    I wanted to know who has what for a second battery an Optima or a Stinger, which model, deep cycle or not, and what you average run time for you computer on just the reserve battery?

    I was pretty set on getting an Optima but I went to look at Stinger batteries last night and I am not sure now.

    I have done a and a but I wanna know from someones experience which seems to work better.
    Nate
    I know what yer thinkin...did he fire six shots or only five...

  • #2
    I have stinger battery in the back. The model number is Spv35. Search on google to get the spec.

    Comment


    • #3
      You don't want a deep cycle. They are designed to be used more for full drain applications, like electric golf carts and winch operation etc.

      Comment


      • #4
        I have heard very few people using stinger batteries. Everyone I know that replaces or adds a battery adds a yellowtop optima. This doesnt necessarily mean that stinger isnt as good, but if they were better, I am sure more people would use them then. I dont know what the prices are either, but I could see the stinger batteries being more expensive, and not really worth the extra money.

        Not really helpful, but I personally would go with optima

        Matt

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by mbuchman
          I have heard very few people using stinger batteries. Everyone I know that replaces or adds a battery adds a yellowtop optima. This doesnt necessarily mean that stinger isnt as good, but if they were better, I am sure more people would use them then. I dont know what the prices are either, but I could see the stinger batteries being more expensive, and not really worth the extra money.

          Not really helpful, but I personally would go with optima

          Matt
          I have a spv35 Stinger in my car and haven't had any problems. Was only $82 from cardomain.com. Don't know abou the optima and I know many people use them but I am cool with my Stinger.

          Comment


          • #6
            i just got a yellow top battery and its real nice. I have 20 jukebox that use to shutdown at every red light, now it just keeps on playing...
            4G64 5 SPEED
            MY CAR - MY 5SPD - MY CARPUTER - MY GARAGE SALE

            Comment


            • #7
              I have an optima Yellow top as well as a 1 farad digital cap, and I love it.

              And a Deep cycle works best with car audio apps because of the serious constant drain on your battery. It also pulls some load off of your alternator. ALL pro car audio entusiest use deep cycle batteries.
              2011 Nissan Frontier SL
              AMD X3 2.2 | M4-ATX | 16Gb SSD | 2GB DDR3-1333 | MSI GF615M-P33 MB
              OBDPROS USB | BU-303 GPS l LILLIPUT TS | Car2PC adapter | XM Direct | USB Dual band N with custom mag-mount antenna.

              Comment


              • #8
                Deep cycle is the best way to go. I can run my system for a whole day while working on the car but at night the car wont start but it always comes back with a hour onthe charger. I got a yellow top.
                1990 Jeep Cherokee
                2000 VW Golf TDI 4dr
                2005 VW GTI MKIV - SOLD

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by froop
                  You don't want a deep cycle. They are designed to be used more for full drain applications, like electric golf carts and winch operation etc.
                  And why don't you want one?
                  Audio Rockford Fosgate: 900 Watt 4-channel amp, 501bd Mono amp
                  Computer AMD 2400+ XP, 1 GB DDR RAM, Orbit Micro 250W DC-DC PSU

                  Head units are for cheaters!
                  sure some girls fake orgasms.....but it's guys like me who fake the whole relationship

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by lgbr
                    And why don't you want one?
                    Because MOST deep cycle batteries are bad starting batteries. The yellow top is both
                    PowerVoice v1 | NaviVoice Source
                    GammaControl v2.4
                    SKINbedder v3

                    1995 Lexus SC300

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I had two of the stinger SP1700s when I competed in SPL, this was before I put a computer in my car. I was running 4 12" subs on a US2000 amplifier (2000watts RMS at any given time, bench tested at well over 3200 watts rms). I was able to run my system in accessory (motor not running) for 4 hours with the system cranked and was still able to start the car without a problem....

                      Currently, with my car as it sits now, I have a red top under the hood and that's it. Just tonight, I was able to listen to the car (tuning for SQ) with the car in the accessory position for an hour and a half before voltage dropped below 11 volts. That was with the system in SQ mode, which means, pretty quiet and very low power requirements from the amps....

                      just to give you a reference
                      Jan Bennett
                      FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

                      Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I'm using a big ol 50 leasure battery and it's fine for the job
                        Leo

                        http://www.talkaudio.co.uk

                        A million people can't be wrong, right?

                        Well... unless they're all from the red states...

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          as redGTi will tell you, as an SPL competitor the non-deep cycle batteries provide better performance through improved response time. Deep cycles are notorious for being slow on the uptake, but their benefits have alreayd been spelled out here.

                          for computer run time, especially with car off run time and applications, I would reccommend a deep cycle due to cyclic nature of charge and slow current demands. This isnt to say they are the only way to go for audio systems, or even the best way. but in this situation, most definitely a deep cycle I believe would be the best way to go.

                          dont forget the isolator so you can still start your car if you accidentally drain your second battery!

                          and, as a suggestion from personal experience, it helps to have an upgraded starting battery under the hood for situations when you drain the rear battery completely. Starting the car puts a dual demand on your starting battery, to charge the rear battery while simultaneously starting the car. Its not something to plan for off the bat, just to keep in mind if your starts start to get weaker after the upgrade.

                          I personally ran a deep cycle rated for 200 minutes of reserve charge. thats about 1 2/3 a yellowtop in one package. with subwoofers turned off, I was able to run mids and highs for a week. I assume yoru computer takes far less current than my speakers. I also assume that your draw would be more constant, but the point of this paragraph is that it shouldnt be too far a stretch to suggest with a yellowtop and stock stereo you will have about zero issues watching an extended movie in the car with the engine off.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by lgbr
                            And why don't you want one?
                            Deep cycle batteries are designed to be just that - deep cycling. That means charge them, then drain them down to just about flat. A starting battery is just about the opposite - draining it down to flat damages it.

                            Deep cycle - charge, use completely, charge...
                            Starter - charge, use moderately, top up, use, top up...

                            A deep cycle battery will often have enough CCA (cold cranking amps) to start you car, and although a starter battery may have a similar amp-hour rating to a deep cycle, draining it flat by pumping the tunes without the engine running will kill it.

                            Likewise, if you're pumping the tunes with the engine going, you're better off saving your money on your battery, and upgrading your alternator so it can keep your starting battery fully charged.

                            The biggest gain of an Optima (red, blue or yellow) is that they have bloody quick charge times compared to most standard batteries. But you still need your alternator to be able to charge the baby up!

                            If you want the best of both worlds, get a red top to power your amp while you're driving, and flick it over to a yellow if you're cranking volume up with the engine turned off.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              If I was to add a battery it would be a deep cycle battery with a split charge relay.

                              If you want to play music on a decent system for an extended period of time with the engine off then surely deep cycle is the only way to go, otherwise you'll just damage your battery.

                              I've never heard of people damaging deep cycle batteries by not fully discharging them.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X