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going to compete in sq, what equipment?

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  • going to compete in sq, what equipment?

    ok i'm using a carputer and i'm going to build an sq system, i'd like to know which equipment i need. these are what i'm considering and correct me if i'm wrong.

    sound card : creative audigy 2
    processor : alpine pra-h700
    seps : focal k2p
    subs : i don't know yet, what should i use?
    wires : i don't know, what should i look for?
    Brushed Metal for Centrafuse 1.4
    Brushed Aluminum for Centrafuse 1.4


    xenarc 700ts | via epia-m10k | audigy2 nx | holux gm-210 | usb wifi | 40gb 2.5" | slot-load dvd-cdrw | morex 3688 | opus 150w | centrafuse, iguidance

  • #2
    have you done any searching?

    this isn't exactly the best forum to ask about sq stuff....

    for stuff like this you really need to do your own research, because what other people will recomend, 9 times out of 10, is only what they have experience with...and in that case they are biased to how their car is set-up and their enclosure, etc....not to mention their amps....which you haven't even mentioned....you are going to be running amps aren't you?

    how much money are you willing to spend? how much room do you have? etc...

    I am running Arc Audio amps but am considering Audison amps, why, because Audison amps are just incredible, but they are $$$$$$$$$$$$ for the ones that I want....

    have you ever competed before? have you ever been to a show to know what they are looking for? have you read the rules to see if you want to go in the big power class or the small power class? do you know what sanctioning body you will be competing in? etc?

    for subs you need to look for a quick responding (read light weight cone), something that is high quality, that isn't HUGE (like a 15"), it all basically comes down to the build quality of the sub. JL, Focal, IDQ

    wiring....right size, easy to work with....other than that basic power wires are all about the same as long as they are oxygen free....but RCAs are a different story....this is one area where you SERIOUSLY don't want to skimp on....I don't care what others say, you need to spend the money here and get a good set of RCAs....
    Jan Bennett
    FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

    Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

    Comment


    • #3
      I love the JL W3v2, W6 and W7 subs. Im also running JL amps but will be ordering Butler amps once i have some extra cash, I would not recomend this amp unless you are serious as they need to heat up first.
      the 2150 is a good match for a 8W7 and the475 will power the two sets of K2P's.
      I do like the JL amps for what you pay.
      now working on my Dodge Dak
      toshiba portege == done
      audigy2 NX == done
      7" flush mount == 0%
      pimp rating == 48%

      Comment


      • #4
        the JL amps are great for what you pay, very few other companies out there can provide that kind of quality for that kind of price...

        if you want to go all out....go audison....and no, I'm not talking the SRx line, I'm talking Thesis or VRx line

        working on swapping out the Arcs for those....lol
        Jan Bennett
        FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

        Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

        Comment


        • #5
          the only reson I am going with the Butler over somthing like audison is that i LOVE tube amps. and 20hz - 100khz is a huge leap over most 20 - 20k.
          now working on my Dodge Dak
          toshiba portege == done
          audigy2 NX == done
          7" flush mount == 0%
          pimp rating == 48%

          Comment


          • #6
            :-D JL AUDIO lol u get what u pay for exactly i whole sale jl so come to me :-P lol

            ive got two jl audio w3v2's i love them i max them out but they still take it and hit... if u got the room and the money try the kicker solo X its a 10000 watt sub u need about 4 kicker competition amps to push it... another option would be kicker comp vr's the new ones im thinking about getting 4 to 8 kickers to replace my jl's... just remember this if your going to bump ur music bump it LOUD and be proud of it lol

            two jl audio w3v2's
            two power acoustik gothic 1600 watt amps
            crappy *** door speakers 6x8's (work good cuz all i push are high fq's)
            pioneer deh p6500 headunit (lots of options)
            q logic box (its a bit too small so im going to customize it and make it bigger)
            going to add a 400 watt 4 ch amp for my door speakers soon its sitting in my garage just dont have the time and money for the wires....

            ill set your alarm off :-D 1st with my exhaust then with my system

            Comment


            • #7
              My JL 10W0 -8ohms, two of em, POUND with only 100RMS

              JL is the best subs in the world, they are specificly made for power ranges. Find your amps RMS power output and buy a JL accordingly.

              you wont be disappointed.

              Amps - Rockford i recommend (dont know bout sq but for abuse, they can take it)
              or Power Precision
              or Xtant

              all $$$ but worth it
              (All done)
              iPad Mini 128GB, RF 600.5 amp, JL12W0V2, 8 Infinity Components

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by xdjxklusivex
                if u got the room and the money try the kicker solo X its a 10000 watt sub u need about 4 kicker competition amps to push it... another option would be kicker comp vr's the new ones im thinking about getting 4 to 8 kickers to replace my jl's... just remember this if your going to bump ur music bump it LOUD and be proud of it lol
                this is a thread about SQ not SPL

                =]

                two jl audio w3v2's
                two power acoustik gothic 1600 watt amps
                crappy *** door speakers 6x8's (work good cuz all i push are high fq's)
                pioneer deh p6500 headunit (lots of options)
                q logic box (its a bit too small so im going to customize it and make it bigger)
                going to add a 400 watt 4 ch amp for my door speakers soon its sitting in my garage just dont have the time and money for the wires....

                ill set your alarm off :-D 1st with my exhaust then with my system
                this has NOTHING do to with SQ, more to do with ghetto than anything else...

                Jan Bennett
                FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

                Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by sdashiki
                  JL is the best subs in the world,
                  I don't know if I would go that far, they are good, but definately not the best in the world....

                  the brands of amps that you mentioned are decent, but not ideal for SQ, the PPI possibly (older PPI prefered) and the Xtant, are good, they can pass for a good SQ amp, the fosgates??? not so much







                  remember people SQ, NOT SPL, and NOT GHETTO! there is a difference, a HUGE difference!
                  Jan Bennett
                  FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

                  Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    for your amp, you might wanna consider zapco.... like redGTI says, people recommend what they've got experience w/, and I've had excellent experience w/ zapco
                    Stealth OEM spyder
                    1204 dot net!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Zapco is good! I like Zapco!

                      =]
                      Jan Bennett
                      FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

                      Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        emdzey, the fact is, untill you pass regionals, it doesnt really matter what equipment you choose.

                        Ive been beat out by people who were running $40 ebay subwoofers before. In kind, I've run DD midranges and three tempests in my car and beat over half my competitors.

                        whats important for you to do to really get into the competition scene, is to fine tune your ear for staging and phasing. this means major major seat time playing with speaker positioning in the car. when you start to do this (and this can take weeks) red and I can start to help you zero in on stage characteristics, specifically stage instrument positioning, depth, height, the important stuff.

                        Once you have potential phasing issues dealt with, we can start to do tonality. how the instruments should sound (and this one should be fun, some judges listen for different instrument aspects) on the stage in your car.

                        Why go with expensive equipment? well, some speaker characteristics can aid in setting up your sound stage. One particular characteristic I am playing with now is the idea that a tweeter with a low FS can enhance, improve the ease of on axis staging. This is almost a non issue in a car anyways, due to the complex accoustics you will experience.

                        But quite frankly, absolute phasing is the first and more important hurdle to overcome, and its probbaly better to do it with cheap speakers, such as lpg silk tweets, koda midwoofers, and as many subwoofers as your block rocking heart wants (youll naturally decrease these as you get a head for SQ) and slowly pare equipment to the essentials as your tuning ability is honed.

                        did I mention I spanked the utop car with my DD's and vifa tweets? equipment isnt everything!

                        and red, I know they are a bit pricey, but have you considered the LRx series rather than the VRx? I think the industrial design of the heatsink blows away the VRx, and that the noise floor in the car, off or not would prevent hearing the difference....

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          oh, I forgot to mention what I look for in wiring. I look for a high strand count. the *general* tendancy is for higher strand count cabling to flex much more easily, and your back and fingers will thank you as you push it around laying it in your car

                          as to OFC, its cool, but the fact is ETP copper is just as conductive. same with the silver coated OFC wiring. I wouldnt worry. Most wiring if not all is ofc these days anyways. probbaly have to pay more just to get ETP copper ;p

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by WhiteRabbit
                            emdzey, the fact is, untill you pass regionals, it doesnt really matter what equipment you choose.
                            thing is he's in the Phillipines....he owns a business that installs carPCs and he's trying to go out his first year and prove that a computer can sound better than a head unit.

                            whats important for you to do to really get into the competition scene, is to fine tune your ear for staging and phasing. this means major major seat time playing with speaker positioning in the car. when you start to do this (and this can take weeks) red and I can start to help you zero in on stage characteristics, specifically stage instrument positioning, depth, height, the important stuff.
                            This is exactly what I was telling him on AIM. The questions he was asking on AIM were essentially impossible to answer for someone who has yet to compete.

                            Once you have potential phasing issues dealt with, we can start to do tonality. how the instruments should sound (and this one should be fun, some judges listen for different instrument aspects) on the stage in your car.
                            exactly! I just had a guy tune my car this past Sunday who judges and competes on a pretty high level with USACi. I know for a fact that what he listens for is completely different than other judges, but I just needed a starting point....


                            and red, I know they are a bit pricey, but have you considered the LRx series rather than the VRx? I think the industrial design of the heatsink blows away the VRx, and that the noise floor in the car, off or not would prevent hearing the difference....
                            honnestly, I haven't gotten to the point of sitting down with a price sheet and compare what it will cost me and what I can sell my current arcs for....I'll keep it in mind though when I look more indepth at them! Thanks for the heads up!
                            Jan Bennett
                            FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

                            Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I really prefer the look of the LRx amps, even over the VRx. I kick myself once a blue moon for not shelling out the extra $200 for the LRx.

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