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  • Powering AMP and CarPC

    Hi,

    I am about to install an amp in my car but I am not certain which is the best way to power the thing.
    I know I need to have a common ground for my pc and the amp so that I get a minimum of noise but how about the +12V feed from the car-bat.
    The amp is a 4-channel(4*80W)...
    The car pc via M10000 with 60W regulated PS(only have 2.5HD + some usb-devices)...

    Shold I run a fused line from the car-bat to a distribution-block and feed the pc and the amp from that
    or should I use 2 different +12V-lines with separate fuses?

    Would be interesting to know the pros/cons(if there are any using the above methods)

    /L-O

  • #2
    I'd run a 4 gauge wire to a block and split from that.
    [H]4 Life
    My next generation Front End is right on schedule.
    It will be done sometime in the next generation.
    I'm a lesbian too.
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    • #3
      yup frodo's ryt u could power the pc and the amp from a 4 guage cable but if u get voltage spikes u could use a Helix Power capacitor to balance things out. The remote lead of ur amp could cum 4rm the yellow 12v lead of 1 of ur hard drive power leads 4rm the power supply, it usually does it 4 me
      Carputer status:
      {=======---}70%
      Install status:
      {======----}60%
      Software status:
      {====------}40%
      I dunno why but it just worx sumhow

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      • #4
        I have a power distribuitor in the back for the Opus and an amp for the front speakers, using a 8 .ga wire. Ofcourse that amp is 2x60W.
        Renault Megane...the OEM look

        The Lost in Europe Ford Escort

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        • #5
          Thanks guys!

          I think I will go for the distr-block option then...

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          • #6
            yup cool but just check if ur gettin voltage spikes(when the bass hits or wen u start ur car) b4 u blow sumthin. im sure itl b cool
            Carputer status:
            {=======---}70%
            Install status:
            {======----}60%
            Software status:
            {====------}40%
            I dunno why but it just worx sumhow

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            • #7
              yep id agree
              use a 4 gauge wire to a block and split from that.

              But.....Depends on what kind of setup you will go for in the future.

              If you want to put some decent subs which need more than 500w RMS to power them then you should use 4 gauge wire, if not then 8 gauge will prob be fine for a small 4 channel amp and pc.

              If you did want to upgrade ure system you could but a charging relay at the front and a separate battery in the boot to power pc and amp, this way you can run the system with the car off and no worries that the car won't start up after as your front battery won't be used.
              Its down!!!! Sold the Golf so took it out, it's still alive but not installed.

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              • #8
                You will probably be drawing at max 4x80 = 320W x 2 + 60W = 800W/13.8V = ~60A peak current draw.

                4GA handles 100-125A safely at 13-19ft cable length, so you should be fine with 4GA split out to 8GA as 8GA can handle 100-125A safely at 0-10ft cable length

                Better to overestimate your power needs than underestimate and create safety and unsatisfactory operational issues.

                If you are going to add a sub amp in the future, you might want to consider going with a 2GA or 1/0 GA instead.

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                • #9
                  Iv had a problem with my system using a Helix monoblock powering 3 x 12" Helix subs & a 4 chanel helix subs running my splits but iv had probs when my car was idling the battery used 2 go flat while playing music. Iv run )guage wire throughout & 4guage to all devices
                  Carputer status:
                  {=======---}70%
                  Install status:
                  {======----}60%
                  Software status:
                  {====------}40%
                  I dunno why but it just worx sumhow

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                  • #10
                    ghetto internet talk yo!

                    lol

                    disto block is your best bet - it will make things a lot easier....

                    you can do what I did - which was to run your single power line from the battery - fused within 18 inches of the positive terminal of course, to a distrobution block that has fusing as well....that way you have double protection, which would be a good idea to do anyways. I have a 300 amp fuse up front, then a 20 amp fuse at the disto block for teh computer and 2 80amp fuses for the amplifiers.
                    Jan Bennett
                    FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

                    Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Red GTi VR6
                      ghetto internet talk yo!

                      lol

                      disto block is your best bet - it will make things a lot easier....

                      you can do what I did - which was to run your single power line from the battery - fused within 18 inches of the positive terminal of course, to a distrobution block that has fusing as well....that way you have double protection, which would be a good idea to do anyways. I have a 300 amp fuse up front, then a 20 amp fuse at the disto block for teh computer and 2 80amp fuses for the amplifiers.
                      Yeah, any time you split one wire into more, you should fuse for a few reasons. The main reason is if you have a nice 200A fuse at the battery, run 1/0 to the trunk, and split it into 2 4 gauge lines without refusing at the distro block, then if you get a short, you could get an electrical fire because the 4 gauge wouldnt be able to handle the 200A before the fuse pops! So you may think "well the amp has its own fuse", but definately fuse every time you make a new connection (aka after the battery, and after a split)

                      Matt

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                      • #12
                        Thanks for the info guys!

                        I was planning on having just one fuse right after the battery positive but I guess I will put additional fuses after the disto-block to make sure!

                        /L-O

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                        • #13
                          coming from someone who had a car fire due to an installers negligence...

                          I fuse every chance i get...and I also don't let anyone else touch my car - that fire is really what drove me to get into installing on my own...lol
                          Jan Bennett
                          FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

                          Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

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                          • #14
                            =======<=>==|<=>_|..................fuse.......... .| BATTERY|
                            =======<=>==|<=>_|==========<=>======|+_______|
                            fuses fused dist block

                            So you are saying this would be the best way to go? BTW, on a inverter, do you run the black wire to the negative term on the battery?

                            Like my schematic? the ........are to indicate nill, nada, nothing.
                            2000 Sunfire build 100%, or is it ever really 100%?

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                            • #15
                              black is usually just a ground...
                              Jan Bennett
                              FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

                              Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

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