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  • setting up a new sound system

    Hi everyone,

    i am a total noob at car-audio so im bound to be flamed, especialy for creating a new thread, but here i go anyway....

    i am planning on getting the following (all from clarion):

    Head unit: dzx656mp
    component 16cm & 2 cm tweeters: srs1685
    subwoofer: 25cm PA10-s
    Amp: APA450

    i selected all of these from the australian clarion website

    my questions are:
    1, Will that amp be sufficient to power the subs and 16cm woofers
    2, are there any cheaper options with similar quality
    3, have i ommitted anything that i need or should include, (capacitor? crossovers?)
    New carputer install starting soon!
    Project status: 0% still in the planning stages
    My Crappy site

  • #2
    first, how do you intend to wire them?
    how many do you have?
    as for the cap, you dont need it but it will have better bass response.
    Audio: Alpine PXA-H700 DSP, Rockford Fosgate Punch P4004 amp, P152S Comps and Alpine SWR-1242D Sub
    PC: BU-303, SB Audigy 2 ZS, Jetway 1.5Ghz, Cubid case, M2-ATX PSU, New 700tsv
    Toys:K8055 relay board, Elmscan OBDII

    Type-R Mini

    Comment


    • #3
      i was just going to use normal speaker wire, secondle just one sub, two tweeters and two 16cm woofers in total thata it, its only a little pickup ute.
      as for the electrical wiring i will be fine, i have put many systems in cars before, just i have never selected my own components so i dont know what amp i need or what speakers are best for my car, i am just guessing here and as for the head unit, it has aux in and looks kinda cool
      New carputer install starting soon!
      Project status: 0% still in the planning stages
      My Crappy site

      Comment


      • #4
        by wire them i mean connect to each compnonet, i presume ule do hu > components & hu > amp > sub?
        what rating is the amp and the sub?
        Audio: Alpine PXA-H700 DSP, Rockford Fosgate Punch P4004 amp, P152S Comps and Alpine SWR-1242D Sub
        PC: BU-303, SB Audigy 2 ZS, Jetway 1.5Ghz, Cubid case, M2-ATX PSU, New 700tsv
        Toys:K8055 relay board, Elmscan OBDII

        Type-R Mini

        Comment


        • #5
          oh, sorry, my mistake...

          i am wiring the tweeters straight from the head unit from the front channel, the 2 woofers from the amp's front channels (l&r) and the sub will recieve the rear channels bridged

          amplifier:

          Maximum Power Output 400W
          Continuous Average Power Output 200W
          (50W x 4 Into 4-Ohms 20Hz-20kHz)
          Typical 2-Ohm Stereo 100W x 4
          Switchable Bass Boost Control 0dB/6dB/12dB

          Adjustable 50Hz-250Hz High/Low Pass
          Crossover
          4/3/2ch bridgeable mode operation
          Speaker Level Inputs


          subwoofer:

          Injected Polypropylene Titanium Coated Cone
          Single 50 m/m heat resistant Voice Coil
          Rear-Vented Pole Piece
          Foam Rubber Surround
          Large 30 oz Strontium Ferrite Magnet
          Chromed Metal Basket
          Suitable for sealed and vented Installation
          600W Music Peak Power


          components:
          16cm Glass-Fibre Cone Woofer with Rubber Surround
          Powerful Strontium Magnet for Dynamic Bass Response
          2cm Pure Silk Dome Tweeter with Dual-Neodymium Magnet
          2-Way Mounting Tweeter (Variable Angle Flush Mounting/Surface Mounting)
          High Grade -12dB/oct. 2way Crossover Network with Level Attenuator (0, -3dB)
          Extremely High Frequency Reproduction/120kHz

          Fs: 75Hz / Qts: 1.00 / Vas: 5.0 Litres
          200W Music Peak Power
          GM & CHRYSLER Adaptor Included
          Frequency Response:
          28~120.000 Hz
          Efficiency: 91 dB

          that is all taken off > http://www.clarion.com.au/Car/index.html

          i hope that makes sence to you coz i dont understand half of that crap, but i was told to go by the RMS rating and not peak but they dont seem to display that
          New carputer install starting soon!
          Project status: 0% still in the planning stages
          My Crappy site

          Comment


          • #6
            that amp is a little weedy to power that, the other thing is your saying about 2 woofer & 1 sub, same thing! by woofers, do you mean the larger spears in the component set?
            Audio: Alpine PXA-H700 DSP, Rockford Fosgate Punch P4004 amp, P152S Comps and Alpine SWR-1242D Sub
            PC: BU-303, SB Audigy 2 ZS, Jetway 1.5Ghz, Cubid case, M2-ATX PSU, New 700tsv
            Toys:K8055 relay board, Elmscan OBDII

            Type-R Mini

            Comment


            • #7
              yes by woofers i mean the large speakers in the component set, i believe that is what clarion is calling them and so that is what i thought i would call them....

              about the amp, could you reccomend a better one if you think that this one is too feeble to power the speakers?

              also do you think that i need diffrent speakers insetad of the components? like some kind of all round speaker that can do the high to mid range and let the sub handle the lows?
              New carputer install starting soon!
              Project status: 0% still in the planning stages
              My Crappy site

              Comment


              • #8
                i found this amp, although i have only ever used boss audio subs so i dont know if this amp is any good but is it powerful enough for this system mabey?

                4 x 250 Watts max. output power
                4 3 or 2 channel bridgeable
                Variable bass booster
                Vairable low pass & high pass crossover
                Power on & protection led indicators
                Fan cooling system
                Boss - 4 Channel 1000 Watt High Powered Amplifier. Thermal / short - circuit / overloading protection, Gold plated RCA inputs & speaker terminals, 4 x 250 Watts max. output power, 4 3 or 2 channel bridgeable, Variable bass booster, Vairable low pass & high pass crossover, Power on & protection led indicators, Fan cooling system.




                or this one i found is a no-name brand from jaycar electronics:

                240WRMS - 4 Ohm Active Subwoofer Amplifier Module

                Rated at 240 watts RMS into 4 ohms and 150 watts RMS into 8 ohms, this high powered amplifier module is an easy, low cost way to add an active sub woofer to your existing stereo or home theatre system. The amplifier is designed to mount in the side of the subwoofer and features both Hi (speaker level) & Low (line level) inputs, phase reversal switch variable crossover frequency and low distortion. The amp mixes the left & right input signals, (but only below a set frequency so the stereo image in unaffected) into a single sub channel so only one module is required. The auto on/off function turns the amplifier on when it receives an input signal and off when there is no input for 15 to 20 minutes. Unit requires cutout of 237Hx235Wx80Dmm.

                - Level control
                - Phase control
                - Variable crossover frequency
                - Line level input
                - Hi level input
                - Auto on/off sensing.

                Specifications
                - Continuous output power: 240W RMS into 4 ohms & 150W RMS into 8 ohms
                - Frequency response: 20 to 160 Hz
                - Adjustable crossover: 50Hz to 160 Hz
                - THD: <0.1% - Distortion: <0.2% - S/N ratio: >100db
                - Bass boost: 6db @ 35Hz
                - Input sensitivity @ max vol.:150mV, Line out: 180mV @ max vol.
                - Power requirement: 240V 50Hz.


                is either of these two amps what i need?
                New carputer install starting soon!
                Project status: 0% still in the planning stages
                My Crappy site

                Comment


                • #9
                  with that component set, i think you have to run them through the crossover, it splits the range, so the low / mid goes to the 'woofers' and the highs go to the tweeters, do you think you will need a sub on top of those? they look quite big.

                  you would probably have to run the components of the amp.

                  but it should be powerfull enough to do them all, 2 * 250 for the components & 1 * 500 for the sub.
                  Audio: Alpine PXA-H700 DSP, Rockford Fosgate Punch P4004 amp, P152S Comps and Alpine SWR-1242D Sub
                  PC: BU-303, SB Audigy 2 ZS, Jetway 1.5Ghz, Cubid case, M2-ATX PSU, New 700tsv
                  Toys:K8055 relay board, Elmscan OBDII

                  Type-R Mini

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    first of all thankyou for all your help and advice so-far it is much apriciated, secondly....

                    the components are only 6.2" or 16cm.... i was under the impression that a sub would still be required for the lows... but if you think one is not required then......

                    also what crossover would i need? is that one crossover per speaker? per channel? one for the components and one for the subs?
                    New carputer install starting soon!
                    Project status: 0% still in the planning stages
                    My Crappy site

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      one per channel, they are included as they are tailored to the speakers.
                      also, its up to you, they should give u ok lows but if you want big bass then yeah get it, dont want to say you dont need it then u not like how it sounds n blame me for it.
                      Audio: Alpine PXA-H700 DSP, Rockford Fosgate Punch P4004 amp, P152S Comps and Alpine SWR-1242D Sub
                      PC: BU-303, SB Audigy 2 ZS, Jetway 1.5Ghz, Cubid case, M2-ATX PSU, New 700tsv
                      Toys:K8055 relay board, Elmscan OBDII

                      Type-R Mini

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        most component sets these days are designed to be run with a seperate sub so they cant handle the lows.. get a sub.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          ok thanks for that, ill get the sub aswell as the components, one last question about the amp, the clarion amp is definatly underpowered you said so would either of the 2 that i found (boss or jaycar amps) be appropriate or would you reccomend something else?

                          and lastly, do i need a crossover for the sub too? or can that "low pass" in the amp do the same job?



                          thanks
                          New carputer install starting soon!
                          Project status: 0% still in the planning stages
                          My Crappy site

                          Comment

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