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Wiring and terminal block recommendations?

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  • Wiring and terminal block recommendations?

    I'm ready to install my PC finally, planning to do it this weekend. The only things I need are wiring and parts for hooking up power. I know I should get at least 12 guage wire. What about a terminal block (so I can just run one 12v for my amp and the computer) and a grounding clip (whatever you call the thing that you tighten the nut onto to ground your stuff to the car frame)? Can I get these at Radio Shack? I hate shopping there, but for simple stuff it's generally the easiest. Or should I go to Best Buy or something? I don't know if I really want to buy a $70 amp install kit, because I already have the 12v line run from the battery. I just need to add an accessory line for triggering PC boot, and do some grounding. I looked at terminal blocks on Crutchfield, but they're like $35... that's pretty over the top for my purposes.

  • #2
    12 gauge? Hell, thats speaker cable. You want to be looking at 4 gauge at least
    Leo

    http://www.talkaudio.co.uk

    A million people can't be wrong, right?

    Well... unless they're all from the red states...

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    • #3
      OK, so 4 guage wire. What about terminal blocks, etc?

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      • #4
        What do you have running 12V from the battery already? If its not 4G, scrap it.

        What you seem to want to do is what car audio peeple do with multiple amps. Very simple, but other than car audio stuff (just sold mine on ebay sorry) you are outta luck I think.

        You need 4G wire to a fuse block with AMPERAGE rated fuses for each line out. From that block you can run 4G-12G or so out to your amp and computer.

        Then you need to find a spot in the car where you can either find a bolt with easy access that is touching the cars frame, or a hole somewhere in the sheet metal (check in the trunk behind the carpet on the sides). Scrape the paint off to get a good solid connection and using a bolt and a grounding wire (8G is cool) with a metal loop on the end (thread bolt thru loop duh) bolt to cars frame. Use a ground block to go from the single ground to multiples.
        (All done)
        iPad Mini 128GB, RF 600.5 amp, JL12W0V2, 8 Infinity Components

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        • #5
          Originally posted by sdashiki
          and a grounding wire (8G is cool) with a metal loop on the end (thread bolt thru loop duh) bolt to cars frame. Use a ground block to go from the single ground to multiples.

          ground and power wires should be the same gauge boss

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          • #6
            I meant that the INPUT wire can be different for 12V+/G- the output should be the same, yes. Match the output guage to the input gauge of the amp.
            (All done)
            iPad Mini 128GB, RF 600.5 amp, JL12W0V2, 8 Infinity Components

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            • #7
              Originally posted by sdashiki
              I meant that the INPUT wire can be different for 12V+/G- the output should be the same, yes. Match the output guage to the input gauge of the amp.

              input? output? what are you talking about?

              if you really want to get technical, remember that electrons flow from negative to positive, so the negative terminal on an amp or inverter is really the 'input' for electrons

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              • #8
                ground and power wires should be the same gauge boss
                This isn't essential. You could run a 4 gauge into an amp with a short 12 gauge ground wire and be fine all day long. It isn't ideal but it will be fine for 99.99% of car audio cases out there.

                If you want to argue this point I fully expect to see some calculations of current density, wire heating, and the effect this will have on the sound quality.

                Go!

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                • #9
                  4 guage wire is pretty damn thick. This is not a serious amount of power; I'm running a low end amp to stock speakers, and a 90 watt power supply for an EPIA system (pretty low power consumption - no peripherals other than the hard drive). Why would using 6 or 8 guage wire be a problem?

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                  • #10
                    I wouldnt run the power for you pc from the same wires that are running your amps, esp if you're running subs. There will be too much power fluxuation that would probably be harmfull to your computer.
                    "In the beginners mind there are many possibilities, but in the experts mind there are few."- Shunryu Suzuki
                    "Do it right or don't do it at all"

                    PROGRESS:
                    [-------90%-] (New Car=New Build)

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                    • #11
                      I'm not running subs, just stock speakers. But that's a good point, I'll look into it some more.

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                      • #12
                        its hard to tell you anything definite without the current rating of the amp. If it is very small, and I think the 90 watt psu (m1 atx?) is fused to 10 amps, you could get away with 8 awg wire. That being said, low end amps are also often very inefficient, and will draw more power than a better made amp putting the same power to the speakers.

                        And your ground should always be the same size as your power wire. It is certainly possible to have them be different sizes. You could have 0 awg power and 12 awg ground and be running 150 amps through it with no problem if you have a 22 ft power run and a 2 inch ground run. For general purposes, however, you should just use the same gauge wire on both runs to prevent fires, and keep both runs, particularly the ground, as short as possible.
                        My 2002 F250 Install

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by donde
                          its hard to tell you anything definite without the current rating of the amp. If it is very small, and I think the 90 watt psu (m1 atx?) is fused to 10 amps, you could get away with 8 awg wire. That being said, low end amps are also often very inefficient, and will draw more power than a better made amp putting the same power to the speakers.

                          And your ground should always be the same size as your power wire. It is certainly possible to have them be different sizes. You could have 0 awg power and 12 awg ground and be running 150 amps through it with no problem if you have a 22 ft power run and a 2 inch ground run. For general purposes, however, you should just use the same gauge wire on both runs to prevent fires, and keep both runs, particularly the ground, as short as possible.
                          Word!?!
                          "In the beginners mind there are many possibilities, but in the experts mind there are few."- Shunryu Suzuki
                          "Do it right or don't do it at all"

                          PROGRESS:
                          [-------90%-] (New Car=New Build)

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            what
                            My 2002 F250 Install

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by MrPerfectionest
                              This isn't essential. You could run a 4 gauge into an amp with a short 12 gauge ground wire and be fine all day long. It isn't ideal but it will be fine for 99.99% of car audio cases out there.

                              If you want to argue this point I fully expect to see some calculations of current density, wire heating, and the effect this will have on the sound quality.

                              Go!

                              12 guage wire is rated for at best over 3 ft, 25 amps safely, 30 amps is pushing it. Why would you run power wire capable of 90a+ and ground wire capable of 30a? There's a reason bother terminals are the same size on the amp

                              this has nothing to do with current density or any of that, it has to do with logic - the same number of electrons that go into the amplifier must come back out....its not like the electrons just pile up inside the amplifier....

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