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1 alt 2 batt need isolator help

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  • 1 alt 2 batt need isolator help

    i have a stinger 300 amp alt and i need to install an isolator im not to sure how to go about this, i have 2 phoenix gold titanium series amp 1000.2 one for each 13.5 w7 and i have a phoenix gold titanium 500.4 for the mb quart qsd216 and 213 and a 15 farad alumapro cap ,my problem is i dont know if i need a 300 amp isolator or what does it matter that my alt is more amp than the isolator and what kind cause there are 3 diff kind that ive read about some look like relays and some are square boxstyle like the hellroaring can someone please inform me on how to properly instal an isolator to 2 optima redtop.

  • #2
    what?
    Take my advice: Do not try to build a system that includes EVERY feature. Start with the basics, build it to a bug free state, and THEN add on.

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    • #3
      Ive never done an isolater I always use the sr200 realy from stinger but they should all hook the same power in power out a ground post and a switched post. If you alt is 300 amp id run a 300 amp isolator. and if you insist on running optima batterys use a yellow top in the rear not a red top
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      • #4
        ok but the sr200 isnt 300 amp can i strap 2 of them together to get 400 amps out of them and how would i go about doing that, because i know the 300 amp alt isnt putting out 300 amps but i wanna make sure im not going to run into problems in the future and also im going to but this batt in the back of my suburban is it going to be ok to run an 0g wire all the way back to the second wire, would that effect the charge?

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        • #5
          Javy, seriously! You need to learn about punctuation! Let me give you another concept as well... We call it the "run on sentence". You are soon to achive the 2006 award!

          When will your alternator produce 300 amps? Not at idle! Most of the time the alternator will be well below the stated rating. Secondly, why do you need an isolator? Do you plan on playing the system with the vehicle off? Are you trying to isolate the system batteries from the car battery to eliminate starting problems? Just dont play the system with the car off. If you are dead set on using an isolator, just make sure the amplifiers after the isolator do not draw more than its stated amperage. if it does, you will have to run 2. One to its own dedicated battery and amplifier. Talk about overkill!

          0 gauge to the rear is fine, but you need to upgrade all grounds on the vehicle as well. Look into upgrading the "big 3".

          May i also recommend some 3rd grade grammar books? www.grammarbook.com
          Take my advice: Do not try to build a system that includes EVERY feature. Start with the basics, build it to a bug free state, and THEN add on.

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          • #6
            Nope, you cant pair the relays together. I would stick with the isolator for an everyday car. The relay will rob the starting battery of power when the relay switches on. The only reason I brought it up was because that is what I'm most familiar with. The isolator does just what it says, it isolates both batterys from eachother so they dont pull from and work aginst each other.
            Will is right you dont need a 300amp isolator the reason I used that in an example was because that was what you used, keepin it simple. You could use a 300amp isolator if you wish but it may not be needed, personaly I would use a 300amp but I like overkill and for upgrade possibilities even though you will never need that much. Add up the max current draw you have with everything running that will tell you what size you will need. And yes you should upgrade the big 3 to maximize the effect you are trying to get from adding the second battery.
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            • #7
              I run two batteries with a very simple setup. I have a Interstate Battery under the trunk and inside the car I have an optima red top. I have the accessory wire from the stereo hooked into a little 20 amp car relay (the ones about an inch square) which then drives a larger 80amp relay. The relay connects the power wire from the alternator to the optima red top battery.

              I then connected my car computer to the optima battery.

              Now this type of connection works great, I don't know what anyone is saying about stealing power on start, when my computer starts, like in most cars, the accessory power gets turned off, this turns off the relay isolating the rear battery and car computer from the car's main electrical system.

              You can also use a yellow top, but I got a red top because my buddy at advanced auto parts told me that they don't know what I use it for and if I kill it, they come with longer warrantees - and if I need a replacement, most advanced auto parts stores carry red tops in stock.

              Now I'm not sure why you would need an isolator. The isolators that use diodes (and from my understanding, most do). Diodes will steal 1 to 1.5 v of your power (and turn it into heat). There is no advantage to using an isolator that I can see is that it's solid state and there are no moving parts, however, relays are pretty reliable.

              One thing I like about my setup, is that if my Interstate battery ever dies, I can hot wire the 80amp relay closed and start off the red top in the back - not that I recomend doing it on a regular basis, but I've done it once in a pinch and it's nice to know it can be done.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by boomintrac
                Nope, you cant pair the relays together. I would stick with the isolator for an everyday car. The relay will rob the starting battery of power when the relay switches on.
                I don't understand how a relay turned off when the car starts robs any power??? how are you wiring this up?

                The only reason I brought it up was because that is what I'm most familiar with. The isolator does just what it says, it isolates both batterys from eachother so they dont pull from and work aginst each other.
                This depends on the isolator, but the major majority of isolators don't seperate the batteries from each other, it just keeps the secondary electrical system isolated from the primary system in a car. If you get a short in your secondary electrical system, it can end up causing your primary electrical system to be shorted out.

                And yes you should upgrade the big 3 to maximize the effect you are trying to get from adding the second battery.
                Yes, upgrade those big 3!

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                • #9
                  how do you figure that he couldn't use a pair of relays? I've done it.

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                  • #10
                    Is this the best setup to run for a higher power capacity?

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                    • #11
                      Jay...you must redeem yourself by typing at least ONE complete sentence that is properly punctuated...


                      ....we are all waiting....
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                      • #12
                        Nobody has brought up the actual current he will be drawing with his system. He needs to know the total current he will be drawing, averages and maximum, with his stereo, computer, and all accessories running all at once. That is the current that will be flowing through his isolator, and that is what he needs to know here. Everything has current limits, fuses, relays, even just wire, we all know that. If he gets too small of an isolator it will melt and/or catch fire if he draws too much current through it.

                        PG TI 1000.2 RMS Power at 2 Ohms 500 W x 2

                        1000 watts. 2 of them. 2000 watts. 12 volts. = 166 amps. Class D is roughly 90% efficient, so lets give it 175 amps.

                        PG TI 500.4 RMS Power at 2 Ohms 125 W x 4

                        500 watts. 12 volts = 41 amps. Class AB, probably about 50% efficient, so lets give it 80 amps under some serious load.

                        Already he is drawing 255 amps blaring some super fast transient super bassy techno or something. It's probably at night, the car running, the lights on, thats 300 or so amps goin. What if its raining? wipers, defrost fan, heated seats... 350 amps?

                        Now the cap will be able to store some of that current between the bass hits, so the strain wont likely be at max for very long periods of time. And the music would have to be pretty noisy to pull 80 amps out of his 4 channel amp. The light bulbs draw less once they're heated up, same as the seats, etc. He'll probably never realistically draw over 200-250 amps. But setting up some tiny relay or trying to pair together lesser isolators is risky business, imho. I'd buy a big, expensive, 300 + amp isolator and install it as per the instructions. There are some large marine application isolators that would be perfect.

                        my 2 cents

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by fromplanetbob
                          I don't understand how a relay turned off when the car starts robs any power??? how are you wiring this up?
                          sorry I should have been more specific if the car is turned to the acc position and a relay is switched with an acc wire (how most relays are wired)the batterys will pull from each other and the second battery will in turn rob the primary battery of starting power you could install a switch in the line and manualy switch the relay on and off and not have any problems.

                          Originally posted by fromplanetbob
                          This depends on the isolator, but the major majority of isolators don't seperate the batteries from each other, it just keeps the secondary electrical system isolated from the primary system in a car. If you get a short in your secondary electrical system, it can end up causing your primary electrical system to be shorted out.
                          In the terms I used seperate was meaning that it seperates primary battery from the secondary battery when the car is in the acc position. the power from the second battery is seperated from the primary battery meaning that the current draw from the secondary battery will not draw from the primary battery draining both
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                          • #14
                            Good point. I don't use accessory position on my car so I don't worry about that. Although with an interstate battery and a red top, I'm sure I could run my carputer and stock radio for hours without worries.

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