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  • Alumapro

    Sup guys, I just picked up a JL 1000/1 JL 300/4 and a 12w7. I have a stock alernator but in my engine bay I have an optima blue top. I dont wanna kill my alternator.

    I have a 1 farad monster cable CApacitor. I was told that wont doo much, is that correct?

    How do you guys feel about the alumapro 15farad cap? Will that help me out big time? OR will I be ok with the 1 farad cap and the jl setup?
    2002 Mitsubishi Galant
    Progress: 90% [-▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓- ->

    Carputer Specs:
    Via M10K
    512mb Ram
    60GB HDD
    Souund Blaster Audigy2 NX
    OPUS ITX PC Case


  • #2
    DOes it actually work? Or would it be better to install a 170amp alternator?
    2002 Mitsubishi Galant
    Progress: 90% [-▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓- ->

    Carputer Specs:
    Via M10K
    512mb Ram
    60GB HDD
    Souund Blaster Audigy2 NX
    OPUS ITX PC Case

    Comment


    • #3
      I personally love the alumpro 15... I used an alumapro 5 in a car I built that was at 1200rms, & it made a nice difference....
      MY NEWEST INSTALL:modded infiniti fx with big screen

      first windows carpc install........my liquid cooled LVDS screen :D

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by turbocad6
        I personally love the alumpro 15... I used an alumapro 5 in a car I built that was at 1200rms, & it made a nice difference....

        What would you do? INstall the alumapro 15 or get a Hight Output alternator? The alumapro I can get for $350 and the alternaotr i can get for $350...which would be better?
        2002 Mitsubishi Galant
        Progress: 90% [-▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓- ->

        Carputer Specs:
        Via M10K
        512mb Ram
        60GB HDD
        Souund Blaster Audigy2 NX
        OPUS ITX PC Case

        Comment


        • #5
          hmmmm, that's a loaded question, need more details like what's the stock alt putting out now, what's in the car for a battery now? then theres still a few ways to approach this.....

          if all you want to spend is the $350 & not have to do anything else I guess the alt sounds like a safe bet....., but personally if the stock alt is 110 or 120 amps & is in good shape, I would consider mounting a battery in the rear & a cap..... shouldn't need an alt upgrade at that point.... that's if you have the room for a battery.....

          either that or a heavy duty battery up front & 0 gauge run to the rear..... with a cap should be ok on a good factory alt.... your only talking 1,300 rms......

          if it's got a wimpy 70-85 amp alt then the alt may make more sense...
          MY NEWEST INSTALL:modded infiniti fx with big screen

          first windows carpc install........my liquid cooled LVDS screen :D

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by turbocad6
            hmmmm, that's a loaded question, need more details like what's the stock alt putting out now, what's in the car for a battery now? then theres still a few ways to approach this.....

            if all you want to spend is the $350 & not have to do anything else I guess the alt sounds like a safe bet....., but personally if the stock alt is 110 or 120 amps & is in good shape, I would consider mounting a battery in the rear & a cap..... shouldn't need an alt upgrade at that point.... that's if you have the room for a battery.....

            either that or a heavy duty battery up front & 0 gauge run to the rear..... with a cap should be ok on a good factory alt.... your only talking 1,300 rms......

            if it's got a wimpy 70-85 amp alt then the alt may make more sense...

            My stock alt is 80amps, I have an optima blue top as my battery. I think if i upgrade my alt to 180amps then I will be good, Currently i have a 1 farad cap.
            2002 Mitsubishi Galant
            Progress: 90% [-▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓- ->

            Carputer Specs:
            Via M10K
            512mb Ram
            60GB HDD
            Souund Blaster Audigy2 NX
            OPUS ITX PC Case

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Cheekz185
              Sup guys, I just picked up a JL 1000/1 JL 300/4 and a 12w7. I have a stock alernator but in my engine bay I have an optima blue top. I dont wanna kill my alternator.

              I have a 1 farad monster cable CApacitor. I was told that wont doo much, is that correct?

              How do you guys feel about the alumapro 15farad cap? Will that help me out big time? OR will I be ok with the 1 farad cap and the jl setup?
              a 1 farad cap doesn't do jack, caps really don't do jack until you get to the level of the 15 farad caps you're looking at.

              Personally, I'd spend the money upgrading (either buy a new one or have yours rewound) alternator, THEN I'd consider the cap. Upgrading the big three is a must when running big systems

              see here for more information: http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/u...=5;t=007801;p=

              hope this helps.
              Jan Bennett
              FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

              Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

              Comment


              • #8
                yeh, with an 80 amp stocker & that jl1000 an alt is probably the way to go.....
                MY NEWEST INSTALL:modded infiniti fx with big screen

                first windows carpc install........my liquid cooled LVDS screen :D

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Red GTi VR6
                  a 1 farad cap doesn't do jack, caps really don't do jack until you get to the level of the 15 farad caps you're looking at.

                  Personally, I'd spend the money upgrading (either buy a new one or have yours rewound) alternator, THEN I'd consider the cap. Upgrading the big three is a must when running big systems

                  see here for more information: http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/u...=5;t=007801;p=

                  hope this helps.

                  What if I get a 160amp alty and dont do the big three? Will that be ok?
                  2002 Mitsubishi Galant
                  Progress: 90% [-▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓- ->

                  Carputer Specs:
                  Via M10K
                  512mb Ram
                  60GB HDD
                  Souund Blaster Audigy2 NX
                  OPUS ITX PC Case

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    it should be OK, but why wouldn't you?

                    if you're going to be in there replacing the alternator in the first place, it's not going to be that much additional work at all.

                    Battery to chassis is super simple.
                    Alternator to battery positive can be done while have everything apart to replace alternator.
                    And chassis to engine will be about as easy as battery to chassis.

                    All it requires is some wire and some ring terminals.
                    Jan Bennett
                    FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

                    Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Red GTi VR6
                      it should be OK, but why wouldn't you?

                      if you're going to be in there replacing the alternator in the first place, it's not going to be that much additional work at all.

                      Battery to chassis is super simple.
                      Alternator to battery positive can be done while have everything apart to replace alternator.
                      And chassis to engine will be about as easy as battery to chassis.

                      All it requires is some wire and some ring terminals.
                      I have a 2002 Galant. But i ahve to install inline fuses though rite? What exactly is Chassis to engine?

                      So basically then neg term on the battery goes to the chassis,

                      The alternator pos goes to battery pos
                      2002 Mitsubishi Galant
                      Progress: 90% [-▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓- ->

                      Carputer Specs:
                      Via M10K
                      512mb Ram
                      60GB HDD
                      Souund Blaster Audigy2 NX
                      OPUS ITX PC Case

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        What rating should the fuses be at?, and whatever is connected to my battery currenty, just goes right back on after the big 3?
                        2002 Mitsubishi Galant
                        Progress: 90% [-▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓▓- ->

                        Carputer Specs:
                        Via M10K
                        512mb Ram
                        60GB HDD
                        Souund Blaster Audigy2 NX
                        OPUS ITX PC Case

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          yeah, these upgrades become real necissary to get the benifit of the bigger alt....
                          MY NEWEST INSTALL:modded infiniti fx with big screen

                          first windows carpc install........my liquid cooled LVDS screen :D

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Chassis to engine: your car will have a grounding point on the block. This is usually fairly small or a flat braided wire.

                            As for the fuses, the only one of the big three that you might consider fusing is the alternator to the battery, and even then, it's only if you really want to. For competition, it's a must, but for the average every day Joe, not a necessity.

                            As for the rating of the fuses for the rest of the stuff in the car like your computer and car audio stuff, total up your total current draw (amperage), and get a fuse close to that (a little over is ok, but nothing major - say your computer pulls 15 amps, a 20 amp fuse would be ok). There's also the thought of fusing the wire and not just the components, in which case you would use a fuse that would protect the wire from burning up....if you're interested in doing that, would need to find a chart that would describe all the different fuses needed for the different size wire....or just ask specifically and I or somoene else can answer.

                            As for the size wire to use, specifically for your grounds, ALWAYS use the same size if not larger than what your power is. Remember, it's one continuous loop, if you go smaller on one area, you will create a bottle nexk.
                            Jan Bennett
                            FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

                            Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              FWIW:

                              The proper Gauge Wire based on current demand and length of run:


                              The proper battery size based on total RMS wattage of system:


                              The proper alternator size based on total RMS wattage of system:
                              Jan Bennett
                              FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

                              Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

                              Comment

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