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Replacing 2000 Suburban factory radio

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  • Replacing 2000 Suburban factory radio

    I have a 2000 Chevy Suburban with a Delco factory radio (model 15764358). As far as I can tell it is not an RDS radio. The car does have On-Star.

    The radio has two connectors - The 21-pin connector (power, speakers, mute, etc) and an 18-pin connector. I believe the 18-pin connector provides the interface for communications with On-Star and the rear audio controls. This unit does not control chimes.

    I am replacing the factory radio with a Pioneer unit (DVH-P5000MP). I was under the impression that I only needed to make connections to the 21-pin connector if I didn't care about On-Star or the other secondary functions. Unfortunately, that doesn't seem to be the case. When the Pioneer unit is connected to the 21-pin connector it powers up normally and seems fine, but nothing comes out the speakers.

    After some testing I've discovered the 18-pin connector must be connected as well in order to hear anything through the speakers. I did this by reconnecting the factory head unit and connecting/removing the 18-pin connector. When the 18-pin connector is attached the factory unit plays through the speakers, but when disconnected nothing comes out.

    I'm making the assumption, perhaps erroneously, that the On-Star system somehow captures the links to the speakers (perhaps through a secondary amp) when the 18-pin connector is not attached. I have not been able to find any info about the pinouts on the 18-pin connector.

    What is the best way to bypass/incorporate the 18-pin connector requirement? I don't care about On-Star and would have no problems with disconnecting it if I knew how and that was the answer. I've also seen info about the PAC OS2 connector and would go that route if that is the answer.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

  • #2
    You've gotta get a T-harness. It's pretty expensive and you have to leave your factory radio somewhere in your car. Circuit City or Best Buy would have 'em.

    Comment


    • #3
      Shadow,

      Thanks for the quick reply. You're saying I've got to relocate the factory unit. Would something like
      http://www.discountcarstereo.com/detail.aspx?ID=275 or http://www.mobilcaraudio.com/catalog...160/983971.htm
      do the job instead. They basically emulate the bus connection.

      Comment


      • #4
        If you're positive that when your radio is unplugged that the chimes still work and DO NOT come through the door speakers, the first one may work. If the chimes do come through the door speakers, you gotta pony up and spend $150.

        Comment


        • #5
          I'm positive. I pulled the OEM radio and still get chimes. The only interface through the radio is On-Star, aux tape player and rear controls.

          Turns out the first item linked is for Class II radios which mine isn't.

          It looks like the PAC OS-1 adpater or equivalent from Scosche DCGMOS213B will work.

          THanks for your help.

          Comment


          • #6
            In case you wanted to go the cheap way and forget the special adapter, here is the radio wiring diagram for your 2000 Suburban.

            2000 Suburban Radio.pdf

            Along the left where all of the wires go into the radio, each wire is numbered from top to bottom. The first group (1 thru 20) is probably your 21 pin connector. The second group (7 thru 15) is probably your 18 pin connector.

            Just holler back if you need any help reading the diagram.

            Good Luck.
            ** Denotes an "in car" post
            In-Car posts made from passenger seat - Be safe, Don't Post and Drive.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by walky_talky20
              In case you wanted to go the cheap way and forget the special adapter, here is the radio wiring diagram for your 2000 Suburban.

              [ATTACH]31102[/ATTACH]

              Along the left where all of the wires go into the radio, each wire is numbered from top to bottom. The first group (1 thru 20) is probably your 21 pin connector. The second group (7 thru 15) is probably your 18 pin connector.

              Just holler back if you need any help reading the diagram.

              Good Luck.
              Don't do what this dude said. Notice in his diagram that there's a line called "Data." For some stupid reason in some of their cars/trucks GM ran the databus through the radio as an integral part of the system. That's why the $150 adapter's there. It still keeps the databus in-tact.

              Comment


              • #8
                I have a 2002 tahoe, (non-bose but has onstar, w factory sub) I installed an Alpine head unit with a generic GM wiring harness (like this http://www.tune-town.com/yho/lg70-1858.gif) and was having trouble getting the speakers to work consistently. I would turn the key to acc and it would work, then turn to ignition and it would not work. Or sometimes just not work at all. Everyone was telling me to by the PAC piece, even though I didn't care about keeping the onstar.

                Solution:
                The other harness probably the one you were talking about had a pink wire that interfaces with the factory amps. I connected this to the remote wire on the cd player and have 0 problems since.

                You can see this pink wire as an amp remote wire in the pdf attached by walky_talky20

                Not sure if it will fix your problem or if your radio is the same as mine, but its worth a shot.


                PS
                If you want to keep onstar and all vehicle functionality (door chime and some other stuff) you will need to get the PAC adapter or something similar

                Comment


                • #9
                  It sounds like in this case ignoring the "Data" wire would be OK. Saraja already said that removal of the factory radio only affected the OnStar system, and did not affect the door chimes, etc. As long as this is true, I believe that skipping the expensive adapters would be just fine.
                  ** Denotes an "in car" post
                  In-Car posts made from passenger seat - Be safe, Don't Post and Drive.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    You guys are awesome. Especially thanks for the wiring diagram.

                    If I don't care about On-Star it looks like I just need to tie the pink wire coming out of the 18-pin connector to the orange wire on the 21-pin connector.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Did you check your door locks when you had the radio unplugged?

                      I was thinking 03-up on the expensive harness. You should be good with that 70-1858. Do your speaker grilles say Bose on them?

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Nope. No Bose anywhere. Thanks for the advice

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Radio Intsall Update

                          Gentlemen (and ladies),

                          Thought I'd wrap this up for anyone who runs into the same situation.

                          Synopsis
                          2000 - 2003 GM was in transition with the radio/On-Star/operator notification systems. During that time you could have any of the following combos depending on the model/year (I believe they all had On-Star):

                          No Bose/No RDS/No Class 2
                          No Bose/RDS/No Class 2
                          No Bose/Class 2

                          Bose/No RDS/No Class 2
                          Bose/RDS/No Class 2
                          Bose/No RDS/Class 2

                          Their may be other combos as well. The Class 2 interface really complicated things by including driver notification (chimes) in the radio system as well.

                          Back to my setup (On-Star/No Bose/No RDS/No Class 2) 2000 Suburban.
                          If you have a vehicle with this setup and you want to keep On-Star working you must get a PAC OS-1 interface device (or equivalent) ~$100. Scosche and Precision VAR this device as well. I went this route and it works perfectly.

                          If you don't care about On-Star and don't want to drop the coin on the PAC OS-1 you'll have to play with the wiring a bit. The radio has two connectors. The larger (21 Pin) is your standard radio connector. The 18 Pin is the interface to On-Star and any other sub-systems. You will need to tie one or more wires on the 18 Pin to a suitable trigger to activate the factory amp. See the wiring diagram attached above for more details.

                          If you have a Class 2 radio you will need the PAC OS-2 (or equivalent) along with the chime module.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Hey, at least you learned a thing or two about your truck Most people just want to be spoonfed as soon as they hit a snag but those people usually don't have hobbies like this.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              The saga continues

                              I installed PAC OS-1 and On-Star and the radio now work. That's the good news. The bad news is that only the front speakers will play. I know it's not the radio because I connected the front outputs to the rear speaker leads and nothing, but they work when connected to the front speakers.

                              Any ideas?

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