Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

2004 Impala, AOEM-1, audio stops

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • 2004 Impala, AOEM-1, audio stops

    Here's the problem. I've been trying for a few months now to install subs into my 2004 Chevy Impala SS. Long story short, I finally got all the hardware installed (Factory Head Unit -> PAC AOEM-GM24 -> Clarion EQ -> Lanzar Subwoofer Amplifier, also Factory Head Unit -> Factory Amplifier -> Factory 4-channel speakers) ... here's the problem. Everything works fine, EXCEPT every time I turn on the car, the factory amp (and all the rest of the equipment) doesn't recieve any power from the ACC wire, and therefore doesn't turn on. However, if I unplug and replug in the AOEM-GM24, everything turns on just fine. Everytime I turn on the car I have to repeat this process. Any ideas wtf is going on?? this is driving me nuts, all I want are some damn subwoofers!!!
    Car: 2000 BMW 540i w/ M package
    CarPC: VoomPC w/ MII 12000, 512MB RAM, 8" 640x480 touch screen, Windows XP, RoadRunner UI & iGuidance 4

  • #2
    I'd say your little interface is messed up. I'd spend $30 on a good line-out converter and grab the speaker level signal from the rear speakers. Whole lot easier and a lot more dependable.

    Comment


    • #3
      damn ... i have a feeling that's what i'm going to end up doing (there's $50 down the drain), but this way was sooo much cleaner and direct. plus it actually gives me an ACC out. There's gotta be some way for this thing to work. Maybe I'll call up PAC and see what they say
      Car: 2000 BMW 540i w/ M package
      CarPC: VoomPC w/ MII 12000, 512MB RAM, 8" 640x480 touch screen, Windows XP, RoadRunner UI & iGuidance 4

      Comment


      • #4
        Thank you for calling Pacific Audio Contro. Our business hours are Monday through Friday 8AM to 5PM Pacific Standard Time.

        Comment


        • #5
          i wonder if a delay on the power line to the pac adapter would solve this
          New System in progress:
          M10k
          Phaze TD1500 ~> Dynaudio MD130
          Phaze TD1500 ~> Seas g18rnx/p
          Zapco Ref 500.1 ~ 12" tc-9
          Behringer DCX2496 ~ Envision Electronics psu
          Transflective Xenarc

          My Car Pc Install
          My Boat Pc worklog

          Comment


          • #6
            Check the acc line power. You should see 12 volts. It may be too much drain from the amp. I've seen stereos that cant output 12volts to an amp and had to connect the remote turnon to the stereo remote turn on. You might be able to energize a relay from the acc line then run 12volts from the battery through the relay to the amps remote turn on.

            Anyways check the 12 volts from the acc line first without the amp connected. Then check with the amp connected. you may see the acc line drop when the amp is connected which might mean a bad PAC adapter.

            Another thing is really check all your grounds. I had an amp that would come on sometimes and sometimes not come on at all. I was checking cables and the ground connection to the amp just pulled out of the connection. Once i tightened the ground cable down it was fine.

            Good luck
            Um, I guess this is where you put something witty.WITTY

            My Web site, in the design stage. http://home.comcast.net/~cstrachn

            Modified RRSkinEditor http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=65723

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by pRoFiT
              Check the acc line power. You should see 12 volts.
              The thing with the late model GMs is that the accessory line in most radios is not a true accessory. It does turn the radio on/off. Instead of the what we are used to with most cars when the car is on you'll see +12 volts, most late model GMs uses a digital signal to trigger control the radio functions with that "accessory" wire. Which digitaljeebus is talking about.

              You may be forced to go to the fuse box or from your ignition directly for you're accessory line. Which i'm sure you are aware of, but just putting that out there for those who dont know this to chew on.
              "In the beginners mind there are many possibilities, but in the experts mind there are few."- Shunryu Suzuki
              "Do it right or don't do it at all"

              PROGRESS:
              [-------90%-] (New Car=New Build)

              Comment


              • #8
                Your accessory wire is a big orange wire in your ignition wire. If you're orange/yellow colorblind, let someone else do it. The airbag wires live in a yellow sleeve that's dangerously close to the accessory wire.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by scott_fx
                  i wonder if a delay on the power line to the pac adapter would solve this
                  Unfortunately there's no obvious power line to the pac adapter, it runs off of the same wires that the factory amp does, and you know what those molex connecters look like *shudders*
                  Car: 2000 BMW 540i w/ M package
                  CarPC: VoomPC w/ MII 12000, 512MB RAM, 8" 640x480 touch screen, Windows XP, RoadRunner UI & iGuidance 4

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Shadow
                    Your accessory wire is a big orange wire in your ignition wire. If you're orange/yellow colorblind, let someone else do it. The airbag wires live in a yellow sleeve that's dangerously close to the accessory wire.
                    hehe, thanks, but i'm not anywhere close to the stereo, we're talking about a factory wiring harness in the trunk of the car that connects the factory stereo to the factory amp. the major problem w/ playing with this stereo is that it's all driven by Class-2 data bus signals (volume, delayed turn on, etc.) and there is no simple 12v wire

                    Originally posted by pRoFiT
                    Another thing is really check all your grounds. I had an amp that would come on sometimes and sometimes not come on at all. I was checking cables and the ground connection to the amp just pulled out of the connection. Once i tightened the ground cable down it was fine.
                    Unfortunately, it's a very reliable error. All the cables are well grounded. Assuming everything's plugged in correctly when the car's off:
                    1) I turn the car on
                    2) No sound comes any of the speakers, factory or aftermarket, all aftermarket equipment is off, i.e. no voltage on ACC wire taken from PAC cable (although the stereo does turn on)
                    3) I unplug and replug in the PAC accessory
                    4) All amplifiers turn on, factory and aftermarket, and sound comes through all. They all continue to work fine, until I turn the car off, then repeat ad nauseum =)

                    ... wait, that's not funny, it's frustrating as hell

                    I'm emailing PAC right now (their tech support is pretty quick, btw) I'll keep everyone posted
                    Car: 2000 BMW 540i w/ M package
                    CarPC: VoomPC w/ MII 12000, 512MB RAM, 8" 640x480 touch screen, Windows XP, RoadRunner UI & iGuidance 4

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      damnit, ok, as a follow up, i've been emailing the company that made the part, and it turns out that specific part is supposed to plug into the back of the stereo, not the amp. so it would seem that all of my hacking and rewiring has been for nought =/ actually, after some more careful consideration, it turns out the cable has been wired assuming that you're going to remove the factory amplifier, not add to it. I've rewired it a little bit with that in mind, and this weekend I'm going to find out if it works, or if my BCM has died (again) =)

                      god i'm so ready for subwoofers
                      Car: 2000 BMW 540i w/ M package
                      CarPC: VoomPC w/ MII 12000, 512MB RAM, 8" 640x480 touch screen, Windows XP, RoadRunner UI & iGuidance 4

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        another think that u might want to try would be double check your power antenna wire that is the remote turn on for the factory amp!
                        is it a RDS system?

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          yeah, it's rds *sigh* do you know if that antenna wire is 12.5 volts? maybe I can use that for the remote on for my aftermarket amp too.

                          ... wait, wouldn't the factory radio only turn the antenna on when the radio is on? i.e., not when a cd is playing, or an aux in masquerading as a cd changer? =)
                          Car: 2000 BMW 540i w/ M package
                          CarPC: VoomPC w/ MII 12000, 512MB RAM, 8" 640x480 touch screen, Windows XP, RoadRunner UI & iGuidance 4

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            it wont turn on the aftermarket amp, it carries about 10v

                            in most cases yes, i was saying to use it to check it to test, it should be a white wire. be sure to use a DMM ( Digital multi meter) for testing

                            use a relay to from the aftermarket Head unit to power it from the remote wire

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              1stclasso, how do you know so much about these?

                              I also found another wire, alldata.com labels pin A6 (Pink) of the stereo plug as a "Radio On Signal" ... maybe that gives 12v? hopefully I'll get a chance to test out my theory soon, just thought I'd see if anyone else knows too.

                              Originally posted by 1stclasso
                              use a relay to from the aftermarket Head unit to power it from the remote wire
                              and I don't have an aftermarket head unit, I'm trying to keep the stock head unit and 4 channel amp (although I don't think that the amp will last long, once I get some money I'm upgrading that sucker too)
                              Car: 2000 BMW 540i w/ M package
                              CarPC: VoomPC w/ MII 12000, 512MB RAM, 8" 640x480 touch screen, Windows XP, RoadRunner UI & iGuidance 4

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X