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  • Subwoofer Ohm wiring

    Alright, So im wanting to wire up 2 DVC 4 ohm subs. I was wondering, is it possible to wire them to run a 2 ohm load? i know i could run 1ohm, but the amp im looking at pushes 1000RMS at 2 ohms and these subs are rated 1000rms each. Thanks in advance.

  • #2
    maybe this could help ?


    check for full info here

    http://www.12vhifi.nl/subframe.html

    first is how much subs
    second is dvc ?ohm
    third is mono amp or bridged

    goodluck
    go to my new website:
    http://corsa-t-design.19division.nl

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    • #3
      Originally posted by vincenttor View Post
      maybe this could help ?


      check for full info here

      http://www.12vhifi.nl/subframe.html

      first is how much subs
      second is dvc ?ohm
      third is mono amp or bridged

      goodluck
      i belive that using 4 ohm dvc's in that arrangement would give you a 4 ohm load at the amp. (math: wiring the subs as series 8 ohm, and then parralling them to half would be 4 ohm...)

      to get a 2 ohm load, you would need 2-2ohm, dvc subs.

      it is just not possible with 4 ohm dvc subs.

      though, i prefer to not run anything lower than 4 ohms-- it is just too close to a dead short for me to feel comfortable with..
      My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
      "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


      next project? subaru brz
      carpc undecided

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      • #4
        http://www.crutchfield.com/learn/lea...rs_wiring.html

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        • #5
          In a series circuit, you add the resistance of each thing. If you were to wire these subs in series, it would be an 8 ohm load.

          In a parallel circuit, you add the inverse of each thing and then take the inverse of that answer. Ex. 1/x = 1/a + 1/b + 1/c and solve for x.

          In this case, a parallel circuit is your solution because

          1/x = 1/4 + 1/4
          1/x = 1/2
          x=2


          Short answer: wiring them in parallel will give you a 2 ohm load.
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          • #6
            ok, thanks for the help guys, So i would be able to run 2 DVC 4ohm subs at 2ohm load if there wired in parallel? PaulF says yes but soundman98 says no? Also, lets say my amp pushes 1000RMS @ 1ohm as well as 1000RMS @ 4ohm, What is the difference if i wire and run them at 1000RMS @ 1ohm rather then 1000RMS @ 4ohm? Is 4ohm better then 1 or 2? I just really want to know my options so i dont go buy the wrong amp and subs since these subs retail 450+tax a piece

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            • #7
              you can see on the website exactly how it should be wired that i gave u

              just set how many what amp etc and ur done
              see the pic by the story and its done in a minute
              go to my new website:
              http://corsa-t-design.19division.nl

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              • #8
                Ok, Ive decided to get the 4ohm subs. Im going to wire them to run 1ohm load. Could anyone recommend a good amp that puts out 1000RMS @ 1ohm? Im having trouble finding a decent amp. Im looking to spend under $300 and would like to stay with the big brands like alpine, mtx, pioneer, kenwood etc. Thanks

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by PaulF View Post
                  In a series circuit, you add the resistance of each thing. If you were to wire these subs in series, it would be an 8 ohm load.

                  In a parallel circuit, you add the inverse of each thing and then take the inverse of that answer. Ex. 1/x = 1/a + 1/b + 1/c and solve for x.

                  In this case, a parallel circuit is your solution because

                  1/x = 1/4 + 1/4
                  1/x = 1/2
                  x=2


                  Short answer: wiring them in parallel will give you a 2 ohm load.
                  each individual sub can be setup as a 2 ohm load like you speced. using all 4, 4 ohm voice coils, there is no way to connect the 4 as a 2 ohm load...


                  there isn't really a cheap 1 ohm stable sub amp-- that is this close to a dead short, and to get a amp that reliably puts out in that condition, it is not cheap...
                  My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
                  "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


                  next project? subaru brz
                  carpc undecided

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                  • #10
                    So a 1ohm load is not as safe to run? I guess ill find a amp that puts out 1000rms @ 4ohm, or get the dvc 2ohm versions of the subs because the amp i was looking at puts out 1000rms @ 2ohm. I heard the 2ohm DVC subs in general are not as popular as the 4ohm ones?

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                    • #11
                      popular was what happened in high school

                      it depends on what you want to use them for--- 1/2 ohm setups are primarily for spl competitions, where only the sheer output matters, not the quality of the sound

                      some use 2 ohm setups in their cars because it is a adequate balance between spl and quality.

                      4 ohm have become the standard in cars, but that doesn't mean they are the best-- it offers the most output and cone control...

                      basically, the higher the resistance in the speaker-- the cooler the amp will run(because it will have something pushing back), and the more control it will have over the speaker movement.
                      My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
                      "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


                      next project? subaru brz
                      carpc undecided

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                      • #12
                        Alright, Thanks soundman. I just didnt think 2ohm subs were in demand as much, anyway the subs i was looking into getting were 2 12'' Pioneer champion series pro subs (1000rms, 3500peak) they retail for 449.99 CAD but i found a pair for 400 new. The amp im looking at is a MTX thunder 1000XD. I just purchased a 4ga amp kit and will soon get a 1.5 farrad cap. I want it to be stupid loud, hopefully this setup will accomplish that right now im running 2 12inch JL audio subs and a small MTX jackhammer amp.

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                        • #13
                          don't get a cap. it is a waste of money that can be better spent in other area of the sound system

                          there is a thread in the car audio section titled 'should i get a capacitor'--this is what i posted there-- if you research it, this is the basic concept of what capacitors do in any electrical system:

                          imagine that the amp and subs are a big bathtub, the alternator is a water pump, and the capacitor is a water tower.

                          when you want to fill the bathtub(make the amp/subs start playing), the starting 'jolt'(the first 'bump') of filling the bathtub is going to require more pressure than what the small pump, and water lines can provide, so the water tower releases some water to help keep the pressure up. so now the water pump now not only has to fill the tub, but also add water to the water tower to fill up what you used... if you start playing with the faucet knobs, and turning them on and off(what a bass beat is doing to the amp) it is going to keep drawing more water from the water tower, because the pump can't keep up with the high draw that happens when the knob is first turned on, and the pump will then need to send more water to the tower to fill it back up, stressing the pump more...

                          now, if you had a super large pump, and huge water lines going to the tub, the pump would always be able to keep up with you turning the knobs on and off, and you would not need the water tower, which will stress the pump a whole lot less, and make filling the tub a whole lot quicker...(by now, it should be come a little clearer with how a cap might help occaisionally, but will hurt performance overall, compared to a properly setup system)

                          like thewizard said, if you are having issues you should change the component(s), not add more stuff that will also require power...
                          My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
                          "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


                          next project? subaru brz
                          carpc undecided

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                          • #14
                            Alright, But my buddy has a cap and i dont, when i have my deck turned up almost all the way and the bass is hitting hard my headlights dim out with every bass note and my deck dims, some songs my deck even shuts down for a second and starts back up due to the lack of voltage, his car never does that and hes running more RMS then i am, Ive had my altenator check and its fine and my battery is only 4months old. The cap is only 50 bucks anyway.

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                            • #15
                              a capacitor is a bandaid-- if you put the money into the big three upgrade, it should completly fix the issue.

                              also, if you are running over 1000watts of audio power, you should really look at multiple batteries, and upgraded alternators-- the factory stuff was neve meant to handle that type of load.
                              My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
                              "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


                              next project? subaru brz
                              carpc undecided

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