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RSX dash fabrication in progress *help*

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  • RSX dash fabrication in progress *help*

    Hi, the pictures below is what I have done so far. There are many divots and imperfections on the surface, what can I do to fill those up? So far I've bondo'ed the surface, sanded it with 80grit and then with 320grit. Next im going to sand with 400 but want to know if theres something I should do to fill those imperfections. TIA.






  • #2
    You can use spot puddy to do the filling. I would think if you needed to cover the hole thing fiberglass would be a much better choice, just my 2 cents.
    2004 Sport Trac PC Project.

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    • #3
      i think you should have stayed with the 80 grit longer. The 80 grit is whats going to get rid of all those majorish imperfections. They should all be gone before you go with a finer grit
      nGhost - The FREE Frontend for Linux | Graphics Developer
      Linux ICE - The Car PC Distro | Team Member

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Eubey View Post
        i think you should have stayed with the 80 grit longer. The 80 grit is whats going to get rid of all those majorish imperfections. They should all be gone before you go with a finer grit

        +1

        also, you should look into spot and glazing putty to get rid of very minor spots after completely sanding with 80 grit.
        Car Pc progress meter:
        [-5%-------------------] Carpc build #2. So far, 20$ deep! I love recycling!

        "The car is the closest we will ever come to creating something that is truly alive" -Sir William Lyons
        My worklog

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        • #5
          This is what i did with my RSX Bezel and turned out great. Still need last layers of trim paint.

          I actually used epoxy to glue the lilliput to the bezel.

          - Sand with 80gt until everything is smooth.
          - I then switch to finer grit until i was happy with the look (180, 220, 320)
          - I then applied a thin coat of adhesive promoter before applying the primer so everything would stick better.
          - I then put some high buld filler primer on to see my imperfections (think i used 3 coats of primer)
          - Then i used glazing and spot putty to fill what i missed
          - Once primer and putty were on i sanded with 320, then switched to 400.

          Then texture, wet sand until you get the texture you like.
          Then apply several coats of trim black.

          Thats what i did and am very happy with it. Just take your time and dont rush otherwise you will regrete it.

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          • #6
            Thanks for the responses guys, I did end up sanding more with the 80grit alot more until I worked most of those bumps and imperfections out. After sanding with some 320/400 the surface got really smooth but theres still some holes that im hoping I can fill with the primer and spot putty. Ill get those tonight and update with results. Heres what I have right now:

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            • #7
              Hey, Ive gotten a little further and the surface is kinda patchy instead of smooth. What am I supposed to do at this point? I primered/spot putty a couple of times and sanded. When I go over the surface where the patches are with my fingers, the surface feels smooth but doesnt look smooth. Should I sand more? What grit at this point?



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              • #8
                I'm not expert but i would sat more with the 80 still. The primer is showin some pretty big imperfections.
                nGhost - The FREE Frontend for Linux | Graphics Developer
                Linux ICE - The Car PC Distro | Team Member

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                • #9
                  If it truly is smooth, and there are no imperfections except in the paint, then it looks like you need a few more layers of primer, then paint.
                  Car Pc progress meter:
                  [-5%-------------------] Carpc build #2. So far, 20$ deep! I love recycling!

                  "The car is the closest we will ever come to creating something that is truly alive" -Sir William Lyons
                  My worklog

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                  • #10
                    I'd say that if i were you, i'd take a sanding block , starting with 80 grit and spend no more than 5 minutes to get the "need to be flat" surfaces, really flat. This will help you avoid having those "bumps" on your finish. Then i'd move to something like 150 grit using the sanding block and 5-8 minutes this time(this will help you start getting a smoother finish andalso start getting rid of small bumps). Then, at that point, spray some primer to reveal any smaller bumps, pinholes, imperfactions etc. Now, at that point, you propably need some very light body filler(i personally get the from a local body shop-no known brand on them-a local shop makes them!In my case, hardener is already mixed). Use the filler very carefully, and tried to be precise on the problematic areas. Then, repeat with sanding block and 150 grit again. Don't spend too much time, and focus alittle more, on the areas that you noticed the bumps/imperfections. Repeat the process as many times as needed.
                    When you feel alright, slightly sand with 250 grit, using just your hand. Primer, sand with 300, primer, sand with 400 and then paint.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by qpwoeiruty999 View Post
                      I'd say that if i were you, i'd take a sanding block , starting with 80 grit and spend no more than 5 minutes to get the "need to be flat" surfaces, really flat. This will help you avoid having those "bumps" on your finish. Then i'd move to something like 150 grit using the sanding block and 5-8 minutes this time(this will help you start getting a smoother finish andalso start getting rid of small bumps). Then, at that point, spray some primer to reveal any smaller bumps, pinholes, imperfactions etc. Now, at that point, you propably need some very light body filler(i personally get the from a local body shop-no known brand on them-a local shop makes them!In my case, hardener is already mixed). Use the filler very carefully, and tried to be precise on the problematic areas. Then, repeat with sanding block and 150 grit again. Don't spend too much time, and focus alittle more, on the areas that you noticed the bumps/imperfections. Repeat the process as many times as needed.
                      When you feel alright, slightly sand with 250 grit, using just your hand. Primer, sand with 300, primer, sand with 400 and then paint.
                      Damn! Do I really need to sand it all down with 80 grit?? I thought I was almost done, it feels really smooth but just doesnt look like it.

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                      • #12
                        Feeling smooth doesn't mean a thing... you want it to look smooth!

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by mozee View Post
                          Damn! Do I really need to sand it all down with 80 grit?? I thought I was almost done, it feels really smooth but just doesnt look like it.
                          Yes, unfortunately for me it looks like the surfaces are not truely flat. That's why i suggested using a sanding block. Don't worry. I had similar problems on my recent mod and i had to redo it countless times, until i figured out the correct (for me) process.

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                          • #14
                            I really think that you just went too far with the bondo and getting it off is the hard part. It takes time and patience to do the custom bezels. I also have never liked the look of having the screen flush like that as well because it doesn't give any shape to the bezel and it stands out really bad. Why didn't you just set the screen behind the opening and molded it that way? This is my favorite way of doing it because it comes out really clean, give it a nice shape, and all you have to sand down are the edges to where it meets the screen. With your way of doing it, you have to be really careful in not touching the edges of the screen bezel because it will look odd when you place the LCD back on. Below is an example of what I do to the screens of people who have me make them. They come out really nice and look more of an OEM piece.



                            If you have any questions, let me know.

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                            • #15
                              Hey Man,
                              ;'

                              I got the bezel intoday. I completely took off the bondo, it came right off due tot he fact that bondo and plastic do not bond whatsoever if the plastic isn't properly prepped, dont worry though because this was your first time. I took the bezel out of the OEM piece and I am going to properly bond the pieces together so they will never come a apart.
                              Brian @Nexations Creations

                              Specialist in Custom Interior Fiberglass OEM Replication Work.

                              AIM: Exus28
                              E-Mail: [email protected]

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