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Need ideas - Dash opening bigger then screen bezel

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  • Need ideas - Dash opening bigger then screen bezel

    Okay, so I'm looking to the experts here for some ideas on how to work on my bezel for a '07 Grand Cherokee. Basically, I have the opposite problem that most people have -- I have a huge opening in the dash, bigger then the bezel and so I need to fill in about 1" of area on 3 sides.

    Pictures will explain much better, but only small chuckles at the horrible photoshop mockup are allowed! [click picture for larger version]

    Before showing dash area...


    Mockup with 7" Lilliput and slot loading DVD drive....


    My main concern is the best way to fill in the areas oulined in red, since they are about 1" on the left/right and about 1.5" on the bottom...


    I do not want any seams showing around the bezel or the DVD drive, so that the whole opening (in black) looks like it was made for the LCD and the DVD drive is just the slot and eject button.

    I read the many posts and stickies with what people have used, but there are lots of options it seams and sourcing some of the recommended stuff is hard now.

    ALSO .... if there is anyone with experience that may want to work on this job, please PM me. Open to discussion, and I already have all the parts so all that is needed is the dash work.

  • #2
    Too bad there doesn't seem to be a headrest shroud available for the Lilliputs... that would have been my suggestion... sorry I can't really be of much help when it comes to the fab... perhaps a sheet of plastic or plexi to fill the gaps?
    My '07 Grand Cherokee CarPC project.

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    • #3
      Fill it in with puddy.

      Comment


      • #4
        Actually, it probably wouldn't be that difficult to create your own fiberglass "shroud" ...

        Not being a fiberglass pro, the way I'd perhaps try to go about that would be to wrap the Lilliput housing in aluminum foil, give it a coat of vaseline or whatever, flip it facedown, and then lay down the fiberglass mat and resin... of course you'd need to coat whatever surface you were working on with vaseline as well, but that would give you a flat surface to create the "wings" that you're going to need to fill the gaps...

        I hope that makes sense, and like I said, I know very little about fiberglassing, so hopefully the pros will point out any inconsistencies, problems, or errors in my thought process.
        My '07 Grand Cherokee CarPC project.

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        • #5
          Here's a better picture of the "gap" size that would need to be filled, extending from the side of the dash bezel to the LCD bezel....



          @TheSovereign: Yea, that was what I was thinking from the pictures in your post. Would have been perfect <g>.

          @wjc04wrx: What type of putty you recommend/referencing? The locktite brand putty or something else?...

          (Note: Although it looks like there is metal in the "gap" on the left side, this is just because of the angle of the picture. The metal is behind the existing "black" part, and not really something that can be utilized easily as it's about 1 in behind the work area

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          • #6
            There are several threads here on MP3Car.com that describe this operation, including turbocad6's sticky thread on how to make a factory bezel, right at the top of the Fabrication page. Materials used in these projects include ABS, fiberglass, metal, even fiberboard (Masonite). There are lots of ways to do it, many of them detailed extensively right here.

            One other way to make that gap smaller is to use a bigger screen . . .
            .
            If just enough is really good, then too much ought to be perfect.

            2006 Scion xB with in-dash Atom & Lilliput 889GL -- Worklog at http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/work...res-links.html
            .

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            • #7
              i would get a bigger screen

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              • #8
                I thought about the bigger screen as well, but it looks like he already has that screen.

                Do you want to mold the screen into place, or do you want to make the bezel look as if you can just place it in there like if it were an OEM piece?

                You can use the loctite or other type of puddy, i think that Walmart carries one. Have you ever attempted to do something like this? Would you consider paying someone to do it instead?

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks for the quick input everyone... this forum is more alive then I thought (either that, or I've just read to many old posts from 2006 and 2007!)

                  Can't do a bigger LCD screen, since I already have this one. I wanted to get a transflective, since a lot of sun hits that area with the sunroof open. Also, a 8" widescreen would have fit much better, but not leave me enough room for the slot DVD drive below it (non-negotiable part).

                  @wjc04wrx: I want to mold the screen it into the dash bezel itself, as one unit. Basically, what I'm going for is no seams on the "black" part, just the cutout for the LCD screen and the slot/button for the DVD drive.

                  @rdholtz: I've gone through all the stickies, but also found turbocad6's input into the long 20+ page "ABS sludge" method which I missed before. It seams like the dynatron product would be great, but can't find anywhere around me that stocks it. Repair shops here all order their repair stuff out of state, and I can't find SEM products around here either (though if anyone ever needs every color of Krylon Fusion or generic "auto-zone style" auto paints let me know... sheesh). Any ideas where it can be found online?

                  If I find it, what would you recommend to bridge the 1" gap or so? I imagine having to place some flat material to bridge the gap, then put the dynatron on top of it?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dynat...3286.m20.l1116
                    I would just use foil like the sticky shows to go between the gap.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by super-fly View Post
                      http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dynat...3286.m20.l1116
                      I would just use foil like the sticky shows to go between the gap.
                      Well I'll be .... I searched ebay for Dynatron but didn't think the NES game or Dynatron fans would help me (the results I got).

                      I didn't realize the default search doesn't include ebay motors. Thanks!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Using the putty is very manageable, but like stated before, there are many ways of doing it. Molding it into place will be easier because you don't have to deal with the buttons of the screen.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by NotYou View Post
                          If I find it, what would you recommend to bridge the 1" gap or so? I imagine having to place some flat material to bridge the gap, then put the dynatron on top of it?
                          I suspect something more rigid than just foil would be better, or at least something temporarily under the foil to provide support. If you read this thread, Turbocad6 talks about using all sorts of products in his creations. Any flat, relatively rigid plastic, except polyethylene and polypropylene (because very little bonds to them), would probably do fine.
                          .
                          If just enough is really good, then too much ought to be perfect.

                          2006 Scion xB with in-dash Atom & Lilliput 889GL -- Worklog at http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/work...res-links.html
                          .

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Hello, You are looking at the wrong place. Autozone and places like that are good for parts but suck for everything else. Try a auto paint store. If you dont know anybody like that. Walmart has everything mentioned above. As for making a bezel think of it like this anything gets hard if you put fiberglass resin on it. I have cut out cardboard to the shape of the hole and dipped it in resin. Then filled it in with putty and just kept on sanding and puttying until it was good. The best way would probably be to use aluminum foil and the two part epoxy glue made for plastic. Fusor is a good brand and 3m and sems make it also.
                            I assure you that bezel, will never break. That stuff gets really really hard. I have also made one that seems to be just what you need. Take the part off that you want to put the screen in, and cover it all up with masking tape. Wrap the naked monitor with a bunch of plastic wrap or foil, and place it where ever you want it to be. Make sure everything is covered completely you dont want resin on you monitor. Then simply wrap the whole piece (with the monitor in place) with pantyhose , or anything cloth really. Stretch it tight to conform to the dash peice and clamp it to make it stay in place(clothespins work well). Then spread resin all over it wait and spread again when it dries take it back off and cut out the hole for the monitor and refinish and paint the outside to look good. Another approach would be to wrap the dash piece with pantyhose and then lay the wrapped monitor on top where it needs to be. then very slowly spread the resin every where the monitor isnt. So that when it dries there will be a hard outline of where your monitor is. By now you should have a big hard piece that looks like your dash hole with a spot for a monitor. Keep in mind your not trying to hold the car together with it, your just trying to make something look pretty. Also when ever you get it finished before you paint you can spray some texture coating on it to make it look even more oem, and closer to the dash. When you need to sell the car you can simply remove the bezel by pulling real hard cause the masking tape is under everything. Sorry for the longest post ever! and I hope you understand I can do stuff alot easier than I can explain stuff. good luck

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Personally, I would start with a trim kit like this

                              And work from there. It worked excellent for me anyway.
                              Build Things, it keeps your brain busy.

                              AutoPC v1 (Retired) - AutoPC v2 (in progress) - www.shocknet.us

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