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Nexon...need some advice, PIC included.

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  • Nexon...need some advice, PIC included.

    Hey bud, I have a quick question for ya.

    I have a white Chevy Silverado truck that I would like to color match as much as possible. This would include the bumpers, some grill parts, and the mirrors. You can see some of what Im talking about in the picture below. The plastic that Im going to be dealing with is textured, not too heavily, but definitely not smooth. How would you tackle this? Would you use a filler, or a combination of a filler and a ton of sanding. Also, what do you think the best approach is when it comes to color matching? Although my truck is white, you wouldn’t believe how many different shades of white there are. So if you have any ideas regarding manufacture or brand of paint, that would help too. I have the color codes, but that would only apply to something like "Dupli-Color" or the dealer ship.

    And finally, what do you think about rattle can vs. paint gun? Obviously the paint gun is the better way to go, but I don’t have one at the moment, so weighing out the cost vs. end result benefit would have to be factored in, your advice there would be great.

    Thanks for your help with this and also your continued help all over this board, you are appreciated!!


  • #2
    I too have been looking to do this on my 01 Sport Trac. Its got the ugly gray cladding wrapping the bottom of it from bumper to bumper. I was thinking about just filler and sand the crap out of it. I talked to the guy at the body shop next door (moved in a month ago) he said he would do the same thing...

    Is that the best way to go about it?
    Originally posted by menudude
    thank you all for your help minus the useless post by sjlucky...

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    • #3
      You can also ask Cabe Sipes' opinion. He's got his own forum in the Fabrication section called "Ask Cabe Sipes".
      Originally posted by ghettocruzer
      I was gung ho on building a PC [until] just recently. However, between my new phone having internet and GPS and all...and this kit...Im starting to have trouble justfiying it haha.
      Want to:
      -Find out about the new iBug iPad install?
      -Find out about carPC's in just 5 minutes? View the Car PC 101 video

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Bugbyte View Post
        You can also ask Cabe Sipes' opinion. He's got his own forum in the Fabrication section called "Ask Cabe Sipes".
        But wouldnt that be double posting?
        Originally posted by menudude
        thank you all for your help minus the useless post by sjlucky...

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        • #5
          color matching is the easy part... just take the paint code off the label in the driver side door frame and take it to your local paint shop and they will mix it up for you

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          • #6
            Originally posted by bratnetwork View Post
            color matching is the easy part... just take the paint code off the label in the driver side door frame and take it to your local paint shop and they will mix it up for you
            most of the shops i have talked to as of recent also want to see the car, so that they can try to match the faded paint on your vehicle(all paint fades over time)-- instead of the factory new color. but i have a red car, so i imagine that red fades way different than white...
            My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
            "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


            next project? subaru brz
            carpc undecided

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            • #7
              Hey There,


              You have many questions that are quite understandable. The plastic panels are going to need to be sanded down. I would start to sand them down with something like 180 to knock down that texture. I suggest picking up one of the best filler primers out of a can which is made by SEM. It is called SEM High Build Primer. It is great stuff and will help to fill in sanding scratches and then any texture. Before you sand down your panels, make sure to wash them with comet or dish soap to get any contaminants off of them.

              During sanding, work your phases back and forth until you can visually see no imperfection in your primer. Keep in mind it may take 5-6 session of primer and sanding. once you see that the primer is filling in your trim parts, start to move from 220 to 320 sandpapers.

              Before paint your going to want to wetsand the primer to make it perfectly clean. Again go back with comet or dish soap and wet sand it. This will remove any contaminations before paint. Wetsanding is basically just taking soapy water and sanding. Wetsanding helps to keep the sand paper clean. When you wet sand the primer, use 600 grit. From there your ready for base coat and then clear coat. You will just need to get a tack cloth and tack off your panel (lightly) before paint.

              As for paint, that is a whole new ball game. I have been working with paint for just about 2 and half years now and still am learning a lot. it is just not worth it for you to buy a compressor, paint gun, paint and clear coat just for these little projects. For the amount you would spend in getting all that, you could have just paid a body shop, however there is something about doing it yourself which is very satisfying.

              In your case, your in luck because white is the easiest color to paint. The situation is different for paint because you will be using cans. In my situation, I take the paint code to the store and get it matched up. Sometimes there is different variants in the paint since different cars from the same make and model were painted in different facilities, so shades will very. At any rate, duplicolor makes a wide range of colors and I am sure they will have yours. Pull the color code off your door and find the corresponding rattle can, keep in mind it most likely will not be available in the store but rather online. I would order 2 or 3 cans. The actual color code from the car is on the can.

              Now, for the BEST option for your car. I recommend checking out http://paintworldinc.com/ . There you will find a company who actually mixes your paint according to your vin number. The paint is a little bit more expensive, but it is well worth it because the colors match. The paint is mixed and put into a spray can with a nice tip. These cans are the regular size, not the little duplicolor ones which tend to have less aerosol pressure. I would recommend picking up the color and a clear coat. As you may know, the color is the basecoat and then the clearcoat goes on for added protection and of course to make the gloss, which will match the rest of the car. Your looking at around $50 shipped for one basecoat can and one clearcoat can.

              I would definitely recommend you get the paint from them as you do not want to cheap out on your car

              I hope this helps! Please feel free ask any questions when needed.
              Brian @Nexations Creations

              Specialist in Custom Interior Fiberglass OEM Replication Work.

              AIM: Exus28
              E-Mail: [email protected]

              Comment


              • #8
                what he said
                Google my name if you need to know who I am.

                Comment


                • #9
                  As Nexson said, sand the texture down, and use a high-build primer. If you're doing something like your lower valance, you may want to add a bit of plasticiser (sp?) due to it being about the only thing that may have to flex.

                  Also, a nice way to get the best match is to take off your gas cap door and have the local auto paint store match it. If you're going to rattle-bomb it, then you can have the paint store put it in a non-aerosol spray can as well.

                  For your door handles, the easiest option by-far will be to look into either Esky (Escalade) or Tahoe/Suburban handles. The Esky's are a color-matched bucket with billet handle and the 'Hoe handles are colormatched buckets & handles. Kinda the same with the fender flares... Either OEM Silverado/Sierra (the smooth ones) or even Suburban flares will work. If you can find a donor 'Burban at the local junk yard, you're in like Flint!

                  One day, I will convince the company I work for to start selling the OEM plastic paint in reasonable batches... (if you're willing to buy 100+ gallons you can buy it now!)
                  Play with it, 'til it's broke.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Nexson (and the rest that helped out), thank you very much for taking the time to explain the process in the detail you did. I honestly appreciate it.

                    That said, I have a quick question regarding the delivery method. You are absolutely correct about the amount it would cost to purchase the hardware vs. having a body shop do it. However, I already have a compressor, hoses, and pretty much everything I would need to get the job done other than the actual gun. Keeping in mind that I would never tackle an entire car or something like that, so if I were to purchase a gun, it would only be used for smaller parts such as the ones Im looking to paint in this thread.

                    My main question is, how much better would the finished product be when a paint gun was used vs. rattle can? Now, I understand that there are a TON of variables involved, so Im looking for more of a "generally speaking" answer. Considering I wouldn’t but using this for large applications, would any of these paint guns work for me? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...CategoryID=324

                    If so, which one? I really enjoy doing things myself and have always wanted to get into painting. So I don’t mind spending the money on hardware like this if the end result would be better.

                    Thanks again for your help here and with the rest of the questions you've answered, you are appreciated!!

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                    • #11
                      Out of those guns, I would get this one
                      http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90977

                      I have about the same size gun as that but it is a little bit "better".

                      The finished product with a gun will look the same as the car. However the catch is that it is ALOT harder to work with clear coat out of a gun then it is out of a rattle can. There are various problems you will have with clear coat if the surface is not prepped correctly. Also there are many other variables such as gun adjustment and air pressure that play an even bigger part in how your clear lays down. Being that the gun is small and would only require about 29 psi, it should work well with any compressor bigger then 15 gallons.

                      This is not meant to scare you but to give you an honest opinion. If you are willing top spend the $ for clear coat and paint, then definitely go for it! Revert back to this thread during your project for questions along the way!
                      Brian @Nexations Creations

                      Specialist in Custom Interior Fiberglass OEM Replication Work.

                      AIM: Exus28
                      E-Mail: [email protected]

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Nexson View Post
                        Out of those guns, I would get this one
                        http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90977

                        I have about the same size gun as that but it is a little bit "better".
                        We have quite a few of those exact guns in the shop. (different tip sizes) They've worked out well for us spraying everything from wood stain to auto finish. In all honesty the two more expensive, non-HF, guns aren't very much different than the el cheapo HF guns we have.
                        Play with it, 'til it's broke.

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                        • #13
                          Those guns rock. I painted my first car with one of those earlier this summer.

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