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'98 4runner worklog. Looking for tips/advice/warnings

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  • '98 4runner worklog. Looking for tips/advice/warnings

    H ey guys, So I went and bought another 4runner (after i wrecked my first one...yeah), and decided to try and make a fiberglass enclosure in the rear cargo area for a couple of subs and amps. This is kind of my first time doing this, so i would appreciate any tips you experts might have. Here's what i've done so far:

    Both sides kinda thrown together:

    One thing: I made the sub holes big cause I figured I might want to upgrade soon (i just have some cheap 10" Duals now). I guess my next step is to stretch fleece over it and start painting resin. One question I had was how many layers of fiberglass resin do I really need? I see singe guides say at least 4, but I was wondering if I could get away with like, two.

  • #2
    Depending on the subs you are running and power, you will want at least 4. A set of JL's could need 8 layers so it does vary but 4 minimum I cannot tell from the pics what area is the enclosure for the subs. If its only the area below the rings; I don't think you will be anywhere close to the required cf for most subs.

    Also, I'm concerned when you pull over the speaker rings, they will not take the stress and break off the dowels but hey, I can't answer that from here, you will have to be the judge of that. Also if your pulling to the edges of the plastic trim pieces, will it withstand the stretching? Is the plastic rigid enough? Just give all of these things consideration as you move forward.
    My 2007 Ford F350 Work Log located HERE


    • #3
      Seems like good advice. The dowels seem pretty sturdy, but i suppose it wouldn't hurt to beef it all up a bit. And as for the volume, I was thinking i would cut out the plastic underneath the rings as there is a bunch of space between the plastic wall and the car's body. Here's what it looks like:

      I would probably line that with some of that foamy sound stuff...i don't remember what it's called.


      • #4
        That space won't work. The pressure created by the subs inside the cabinet/space they are attached to is significant and must stay completely sealed and not flex or the subs will sound like *** and destroy themselves at high volume. Basically the pressure they create in that air space when they retract is what helps control their travel and sound. You would basically end up with an open air configuration with what you are suggesting and it can be done but you will needs subs designed for this. I have never heard any that pack much of a punch. (they may exist, I have only heard factory open air subs and they don't impress me much).

        I really think you need to reconsider your design. I'll bet you need at least .75cf of air per sub but thats just a guess not knowing what subs you have.

        You shoudl have a read here and play around with the calculators.
        My 2007 Ford F350 Work Log located HERE