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Converting Lilliput EBY701 to slot-load 1-DIN screen

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  • Converting Lilliput EBY701 to slot-load 1-DIN screen

    This thread outlines how I converted a cheap $20 1-DIN screen to a Lilliput EBY701, on a serious budget.

    BACKGROUND:

    I bought an EBY701 in 2008 and mounted in-dash in my BMW E30. Here's the original thread for those interested.

    The trouble was I retrofitted A/C, and the physical bulk behind the dash meant that I had to return the dash layout to stock. That meant that if I wanted to keep my carPC I'd need a 1-DIN solution.

    I looked around at the options, but baulked at the prices: hundreds of dollars for a slot-load screen, when I already had a decent (if somewhat scratched) lilliput sitting on my workbench. So I looked around for alternatives.

    I stumbled across a cheap-as-chips slot-load screen. Used, broken, sold for $20. I snapped it up and set about dismantling it.


    THE SCREEN:


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    Standard fare: power supply in the main box, simple LCD in the front, accepting two different RCA inputs (no VGA). The screen was primitive but the construction was sturdy, so I set about ripping it to pieces:

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    THE LILLIPUT:

    This will look all too familiar for experienced fabricators. The original EBY-701, in CCFL rather than LCD flavour. Since its so old it has very little resale value (especially with the annoying scratch I put on the touchscreen layer). And because selling it would recoup relatively little money compared to the cost of a new screen, I figured I might as well take it apart and at least try to make it fit. Even if I kill it I've had 5 good years' use out of it, so it's not a huge loss. Here goes:

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    Last edited by Grrrmachine; 08-18-2013, 05:50 AM.
    http://sticksout.blogspot.com

  • #2
    THE INTERFACE:

    Since my EBY701 pre-dates HDMI use for Lilliput, it instead uses a proprietary 14-pin connector that connects to a pigtail cable. This cable then splits to offer VGA and twin phono inputs. Its a clever little system, but with one critical design flaw: the pigtail cable sticks out the side of the Lilliput rather than the back, and the physical bulk of the connector makes the cables protrude past the side of the screen. This is completely useless for a sliding screen, so that will have to be changed.

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    Oh, but what's this I spy? A big fat ribbon cable running through my scrap screen? 24 pins too? That may come in very handy - if I can build an interface between the Lilliput's connector and that ribbon cable, then I can connect the pigtail to the back of the metal frame of the slot-loader screen rather than the back of the Lilliput itself. Here goes:

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    First, two connectors were soldered to a universal board. Annoyingly I couldn't find a board that offered the right pin width for SMD connectors that had 24 pins (1mm), so I had to compromise - some of the pins doubled up to fit, giving me 19 different channels on the 24-pin ribbon. Most important was remembering that they had to be mirror images of each other, so the doubled-up pins had to be opposite versions. Lots of time with needle-tipped screwdrivers was accordingly spent on lining the pins up. I don't ever want to do that again.

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    These boards were then cut to size and offered up to the ribbon to make sure everything fits.

    Then I needed to find a way to connect that to the Lilliput socket. That meant finding out what sockets the Lilliput uses.

    After a mighty ball-ache of a search, I found them: 3M make them, under code 10114-6000EL for the ribbon-cable plug and 10214-6212PL for the straight-pin socket. Trouble is, they're so fine I needed to find the right wires to connect to them.

    For those that remember the old days of IDE hard drives, an 80-pin ribbon cable sliced up fits perfectly, although it's equally fiddly to solder:

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    And then came the sphincter-clenching moment of testing: plugging the pigtail cable into the new socket, which connected to the screen's internal ribbon cable, which then converted back to the new plug that connected to the Lilliput. And...

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    BINGO!

    Admittedly, there were some issues. My massive soldering iron wasn't cut out for fine soldering, and in a moment of panic I plugged the Lilliput power supply in the wrong way round, killing a capacitor on the controller board, but I got it fixed (with some forum help) so that I can move on to the next step.
    Last edited by Grrrmachine; 08-18-2013, 06:04 AM.
    http://sticksout.blogspot.com

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    • #3
      THE SHELL:

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      The original screen was a 7" unit, but of a different aspect ratio to the Lilliput. This meant that the Lilli's screen wouldn't just drop in - a bit of plastic modification was needed. In this case, cutting off the side of the shell and plastic-welding in a strip of ABS to make the frame wider.

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      However, although the Lilli screen is wider, the viewable area is actually narrower - there's a 10mm strip down the right hand side of the screen that doesn't display anything (which is why the EBY701 shell is s much thicker on that side). That also meant filling in a part of the new bezel on the right hand side, then sanding out part of the bottom to compensate. More plastic welding filled in the original screen's buttons at the bottom of the bezel, since there's no space for anything there now either.

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      Last edited by Grrrmachine; 08-22-2013, 01:02 PM.
      http://sticksout.blogspot.com

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      • #4
        THE BUTTONS:

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        Since there's no space on the front for buttons, I've decided to relocate the original EBY701 buttons to the top. I never use the remote control so I'm not worried about losing infra-red range, and there's plenty of space to work with anyway. More ABS welding filled in the original indentation, with a basic sanding down:

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        And from there, I measured the layout of the original buttons, drilled some holes and used some mini-files to try to reproduce the hole layout. This was the end result:

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        Not expert, but not bad. This is how it will look when slotted into the dash:

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        Last edited by Grrrmachine; 08-22-2013, 01:05 PM.
        http://sticksout.blogspot.com

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        • #5
          THE CONTROLLER BOARD:

          The old CCFL version of the EBY701 uses a larger controller board than its LCD successor - in this case, about 6mm too large, since it didn't fit into the shell. The layout of the board means that on one side (right side in pic), there's only a small strip of the board causing a problem, since most of the board is cut away to provide space for the plugs. Trouble is, that small strip holds four SMD transistors on its rear face, whose tiny size makes relocation very difficult:

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          Therefore, the only solution was to cut the board. I wasn't happy about this as one of the key features of this project was that the EBY701 could be restored to factory condition if ever required. Still, since the controller board will always be hidden, a few millimetres here and there couldn't cause any problems, so out came the Dremel. I took 3mm off each side of the board, so that I didn't cut too close to any of the existing components.

          Before fitting, it was also important to bring power to the screen through the main ribbon cable, so I soldered a standard jack plug to two of the free pins, then set about plastic-welding the new mounting points to hold the controller board. I also had to make a few minor holes into the backplate, as there are some chunky components on the controller board that prevented it from laying flat within the shell:

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          And from there, it's simply a matter of slotting the slimmed-down board into place and plugging in the connectors:

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          Last edited by Grrrmachine; 08-23-2013, 11:19 AM.
          http://sticksout.blogspot.com

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          • #6
            Great detail! Thanks for posting all the pics and details. I am sure it will help someone if not doing this mod, at least motivating them to try other things. SNO
            Last edited by SNOtwistR; 08-23-2013, 12:09 PM.

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            • #7
              LOL I have a very similar pop out screen but mine was made specifically for car computers. I have done the exact same thing as you, replace all the internals with a newer screen.

              I used the Samsung screen from 8838.net:
              (http://www.mp3car.com/lcd-display/14...01-36-s-h.html) as the PCB is ALOT smaller and most importantly, doesn't need any buttons to actually operate it, it turns on when power is applied and dims when headlights are on. Not only that, the panel fits in exactly, using a bit of Sugru (Silicone rubber stuff) to hold the panel in. The circuit board is also held in place with Sugru, so there was no need to modify the case at all.

              As for the ribbon, I completely removed that, never thought I could do what Grrmachine did! I used a very old floppy cable (thicker gauge wires) and thankfully that fit in perfectly. I then simply chopped the standard wires in half and soldered each wire to the ribbon, then sliding the ribbon through the openings, soldered the other side in. It's not removable but I don't see a need to remove it anyway! Just remember to use 2-3 wires on the ribbon cable for the power!

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