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  • Can't find Carbon Fiber or Kevlar Tutorials...

    I can't find carbon fiber or kevlar tutorials. I have searched and found lots of places to buy material, but now a "How To" online Tutorial.

    Any suggestions?
    Thanks
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    2002 Toyota Tacoma Doublecab

  • #2
    If you know how to lay up fiberglass, then you know how to lay up carbon fiber. With carbon fiber, you use Epoxy resin.

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    • #3
      And an autoclave.

      http://www.f1technical.net/article3.html

      C!
      http://carpc.riposte.net
      I reserve all rights in connection to each post I author, without exception.

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      • #4
        I have seen examples of what a few people here in the forums have done for their setups, I highly doubt they used an autoclave. But I could be wrong.
        New site at
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        2002 Toyota Tacoma Doublecab

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        • #5
          you wont need and autoclave... depending on the different types of resin it will cure at different temps. You can also add dye to the resin to add some color to the carbon fiber. If you can fiberglass you can carbon fiber. Its basically the same process. If your doing something that is very detailed you might need to vaccum bag it.

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          • #6
            No, you can dye the cloth itself before laying it. Adding tint to the resin will just result in a tinted color on everything. Carbon fiber is real easy to use, you just have to be very precise. Remember that the look you are going for is the carbon itself, where with fiberglass you will be primering and painting it. If you want a good surface, everything has to be smooth before you apply it, and you need to use mylar and a gelcoat to make it perfectly smooth. You don't have much room for error. If you want something to look really nice, make a two part mold for the part, and press the gelcoat over the CF mat. Again, it just has to be perfect to come out perfect.
            Dave
            Also, check selectproducts.com, they have lots of info and videos available.

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            • #7
              If you want the coloured fibre effect use a carbon/kevlar weave/twill were the kevlar has been dyed (carbon is black an not absorbant and kevlar is very absorbant - hence why you should protect it from moisture as it will eventualy break down). You can get these in plain weave (like a chess board) or twill weave (a diagonal stair pattern) and they usually come in 2 or 4mm weave sizes and drape much better then UD material - infact i fon't recoment anyone uses UD unless they really know what they are doing as it has all kinds of problmes. Don't forget to rotate the layers of cloth for good allround strength (ie 0/90 then the next layer +-45) unless you specifically want to tailor the properties. Vacuum bagging can much more than the autoclave in consolidating the resin and fibres and this consists of some special sheeting (which you can get from your carbon supplier), a pump (improvise on that) and some putty to seal it off but you do have to cure it somewhere warm. YOu also need a roller to get all the air out of the layup (again consolidating it) as any voids will seriously affect your strength. The resin choice is pretty critical so get soemthing designed for hobbies that doesnt need a high temp cure but an old oven would be perfect id your part will fit (about 50degC normally helps - the same as used for the high strength araldite). As dave said, use a gelcoat, this is a the hard shiny outer layer of resin which helps prevent moisture ingress - epoxy also absorbs moisture over time and turns white (in warm and moist environments composites have a reduced strength). Also if you are goign to drilling holes or bolting areas add extra layers of matting at different angles to pad up the area around the holes and phase out layers in steps (ie dont suddenly have 5 layers finishing at once where you have been padding up a cut-out). Again as dave said - surface prep is important if you want a good finish but also dont forget to use a release agent!

              jsut to add, dying the resin is a very good alternative to painting (infact is more common than painting due to the fact it is permanant and doesnt have the usual adhesion problems of paint). The only reason for painting is for additonal weather protection or to get a finish eg metallic/texture that you cant get with dye. Most kit cars are provided in basic coloured gel coat and yes they may look plastic and nasty but your dash is plastic anyway so it will look ok if this is what you are using it for. + painting a car is expensive and adds weight - two enemies of a kit car.

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              • #8
                I'm going to renew this thread in attempt to talk to Scouse about this a little more.

                I'm about to order about 5x50' of Chrome Carbon Fiber from the alsa corp (the silver looking carbon fiber) to build a oem hood and rear hatch to match my paint job. It isn't too detailed on the hood, just a hump and thats it. Now I was thinking that I'd buy some Epoxy 'Eat A Bubble' and some wax paper, tape the wax paper to the hood and evenly spread the Epoxy onto the wax paper, then carefuly laying the CF onto the hood and using a paint brush roller since its soft and will get bends quite well to push it on without messing up the patern, and it should also be good to prevent bubbles. But for the top coat is where I'm confused on what to do. Do I brush on resin or do I use resin on the underside instead of epoxy to grab the shape? Or what? Is this GelCoat a layer that I have to heat up in order to get it to form its shape and epoxy or resin it onto the top? Or is this something I spray or brush on?

                I take detail very seriously so just lemme know what all I have to do to get this right, even if its alot and very hard to do, I just need to get it right. It will be cheaper if I do it and if it gets messed up, it still wont cost as much as having a place do it. Thanks!
                1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T
                ABIT NF-M2 nView | AMD Athlon64 FX62 Windsor | nVidia GeForce 6150 | Realtek ALC883 7.1DTS | Vista x64
                RF Power T162S | RF Power T162S | 2x RF Power T212D2 | RF Power T8004 | RF Power T20001bd | RF 3SIXTY.2

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                • #9
                  One more thing, for strength should I do dual layer carbon fiber, or single layer with a layer of fiberglass under it? Tips and Sugjestions welcome,, well actually needed!
                  1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T
                  ABIT NF-M2 nView | AMD Athlon64 FX62 Windsor | nVidia GeForce 6150 | Realtek ALC883 7.1DTS | Vista x64
                  RF Power T162S | RF Power T162S | 2x RF Power T212D2 | RF Power T8004 | RF Power T20001bd | RF 3SIXTY.2

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by 97GST
                    I'm going to renew this thread in attempt to talk to Scouse about this a little more.
                    I could be wrong, but from what I gather, he is gone... :tear:
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                    • #11
                      97GST

                      so you are saying that you JUST want a layer of carbon fiber, not a full hood that's 100% carbon fiber?

                      if you're really picky on quality, I'm not sure this would be the way to go.

                      I've messed with CF, and in all reality, to get it to look great, you really do need to vacuum it. Maybe even using the impregnated stuff.

                      It's a lot like fiber glass, only you have to be MUCH more detailed and careful about what you do. As mentioned earlier, it's the look of the weave that you are after. Making sure that the weave is laying straight, etc is a royal PITA.

                      Then while curing, you run into issues of it dripping, self leveling, and pitting (the resin that is). It IS possible. But for something like a hood, I'd leave that up to the professionals who have spend the thousands on the proper machinery.

                      If you're wanting a FULL cf hood, you really need to leave that up to a professional who will vacuum it.
                      Jan Bennett
                      FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

                      Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by 2k1Toaster
                        I could be wrong, but from what I gather, he is gone... :tear:

                        hu?

                        where do you get that from?

                        he's posted today
                        Jan Bennett
                        FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

                        Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

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                        • #13
                          holy double post batman!

                          i would just save up and buy a cf hood. poorly done cf looks HORRIBLE if you ask me.

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                          • #14
                            there, happy?

                            Jan Bennett
                            FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

                            Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              haha...now it makes me look like i'm crazy

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