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fabricating dash xenarc 700tsv buttons help

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  • fabricating dash xenarc 700tsv buttons help

    hi all,I am going to fabricate the 700tsv in my radio bezel.but I have a question about the buttons.I am going to cover the whole casing just showing the screen & have each individual button show thru the bezel.( just like the picture on the home page).

    I have been looking and looking in the forums and seems like most of you use still use the original case and cover it with bondo,epoxy,what have you etc...

    my question is the buttons will not be long enough to come thru the bondo,epoxy, etc... even if it is only 1/16- 1/8" thick. am I right or wrong on thinking this? because the buttons only come thru the casing 1/16" now with nothing on top of it.

    what am I missing on how all of you cover the casing and still show the buttons?

    also I bought a extra empty case from this site does any one know if these empty cases are the same case that is used in the 700tsv because the case I have I do not see a spot in the back for the USB and video inputs
    all I need to know is if I fabricate the front only part of the case I have will it fit on to the back side of the case off of a 700tsv?


    thanks for all your help
    Win 7 Pro 64bit, 4gb DDR2 Ram, q6600 Processor, Solid state drive & 7200 drive, Andrea mic, Sirius, DE HD Radio, Opus power supply, 10.4" touchscreen.
    1.)Orion 2500d Amp
    1.)Orion 15" h2 Sub
    1.)Orion 8004 Amp
    2.) Sets Orion Components - P-SERIES

  • #2
    i'm pretty sure that somebody else did this by removing the front plate and using that as part of the fabrication. when they were done, all of their newly created faceplate still contained the existing faceplate which attached the back directly to the newly fabricated part.
    3g Eclipse - VIA M10000/512M Ram
    7"WideScreen - XM SkyFi1 - ipod - LinksysWiFi
    NetStumbler / Delorme GPS+Maps / Itunes
    05 Magnum - AVIC-N2 - xbox

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    • #3
      thanks for responding. i do understand that the front plate is used in the fabrication.but when i put a thin layer of bondo etc... on top of it to cover up all the plactic casing and incorperate it in the rest of the bezel. the buttons will be sunk in because the buttons do not stick out far enough.they only stick out about 1/16-1/8" now with out any thing on top.i am not sure how other people did it so the buttons still can stick out a little.
      thanks
      Win 7 Pro 64bit, 4gb DDR2 Ram, q6600 Processor, Solid state drive & 7200 drive, Andrea mic, Sirius, DE HD Radio, Opus power supply, 10.4" touchscreen.
      1.)Orion 2500d Amp
      1.)Orion 15" h2 Sub
      1.)Orion 8004 Amp
      2.) Sets Orion Components - P-SERIES

      Comment


      • #4
        From what I've seen here, the original face plate of the monitor gets sanded and a little bondo added to fix scratches or eliminate trim lines, etc, but the only additional coating it gets is a light texture layer and some paint. That's how I plan to do mine, anyway.

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        • #5
          You need to taper the edges of the button piece and the piece you are molding it into such that the filler application is limited to the area around the seam, and no additional thickness is present at the button holes.

          http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...ght=relocating
          Fabricator

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