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smoothly bonding metal and bondo?

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  • smoothly bonding metal and bondo?

    (uhm, not sure if this posted?)
    hey guys, im almost done with molding my screen, but since the xenarc frame is aluminum, im not sure how to get a nice seamless flowing between the bottom of the monitor frame and the bondo (there used to be holes for HVAC knobs, and ive shaved those with a combination of fiberglass and more bondo. right now there is a DVD slot i just added in...)





    anyways, is there any way to get this into a more smoother curve. i keep adding bondo and trying to sanding in a curvelike fashion, but after i hit it up with some primer, its not smooth looking at all.

    as always, appreciate any suggestions and thanks for reading.

    edit: should i just keep primering for like 50 layers in addition to wetsanding? will that help and make it seamless? thanks
    Mazdaspeed Car Computer
    gotta redo it all

  • #2
    Why didn't you just take it out of its case?
    PowerVoice v1 | NaviVoice Source
    GammaControl v2.4
    SKINbedder v3

    1995 Lexus SC300

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    • #3
      Not sure what you mean?

      Take it out of the case? You know how the casings for the 7" screens are plastic?, the one for the 8" is aluminum, and kinda makes it hard to make a seamless molding, unless i just need to shoot a couple thick layers of primer and get that goin.

      not sure, thanks for reading
      Mazdaspeed Car Computer
      gotta redo it all

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Dexter
        Not sure what you mean?

        Take it out of the case? You know how the casings for the 7" screens are plastic?, the one for the 8" is aluminum, and kinda makes it hard to make a seamless molding, unless i just need to shoot a couple thick layers of primer and get that goin.

        not sure, thanks for reading
        I meant that this isn't a lilli that will fall apart if you remove its casing. Basically I was saying to just totally ditch the aluminum and make your own holding for the screen.
        PowerVoice v1 | NaviVoice Source
        GammaControl v2.4
        SKINbedder v3

        1995 Lexus SC300

        Comment


        • #5
          Gotcha, but damn, that'd be alot more work, and i spent a week fussing over making sure it was straight before i put it in and stuff... I dunno, I suck, im gonna go empty a can of primer on dis biatch. heh.
          Mazdaspeed Car Computer
          gotta redo it all

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Dexter
            I dunno, I suck, im gonna go empty a can of primer on dis biatch. heh.
            Good idea...
            PowerVoice v1 | NaviVoice Source
            GammaControl v2.4
            SKINbedder v3

            1995 Lexus SC300

            Comment


            • #7
              Maybe use some bondo spot putty? It's in an orange tube, easy to work with. Hell, I'd recommend throwing on a rubber glove and just using your finger to contour it. Then sand it gently without a board/block. I think the board will just expose the edge again.
              GE Cache Builder | [email protected] |Coolstuff :autospeed.com | bit-tech.net | Nitemax Ultra Pinouts

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              • #8
                yeah, ive got a big tube if the spot putty. i will try that, and yeah i use gloves and just contour it with my finger. i edned up emptying the can of spotfiller/high build primer, i'm gonna wetsand it now with some 400 and try some of the spot putty. i can see it IS building up and getting nicer, but man, its gonna take awhile. oh well, such is the life.
                Mazdaspeed Car Computer
                gotta redo it all

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Dexter
                  yeah, ive got a big tube if the spot putty. i will try that, and yeah i use gloves and just contour it with my finger. i edned up emptying the can of spotfiller/high build primer, i'm gonna wetsand it now with some 400 and try some of the spot putty. i can see it IS building up and getting nicer, but man, its gonna take awhile. oh well, such is the life.
                  I'd give the spot putty a try. When I was putting in my spoiler, I dropped it and chipped the tip right off. (I was ****ed)

                  I took some of that and was able to make a new tip in about an hour sculpting it with my finger. I had to do it in three passes to build it up.

                  Good luck.
                  GE Cache Builder | [email protected] |Coolstuff :autospeed.com | bit-tech.net | Nitemax Ultra Pinouts

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                  • #10
                    Bondo sticks to metal great just sand it well first. Spot putty is the devil use it very sparingly and only for the very smallest imperfections and pinholes.
                    Fabricator

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Altimat
                      Bondo sticks to metal great just sand it well first. Spot putty is the devil use it very sparingly and only for the very smallest imperfections and pinholes.
                      I dunno, that bondo orange putty worked great. I mean, I made a tip of it, no backing. It's been weathering things well now for a few months. (Including 70+ inches of snow)
                      GE Cache Builder | [email protected] |Coolstuff :autospeed.com | bit-tech.net | Nitemax Ultra Pinouts

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                      • #12
                        Well it worked for you, but it will have shrunk like crazy by the time it finally dries, can crack, is brittle, and I almost never used it when I restored cars for 15 years. I bet it falls off someday. Thats why it only costs $2. Plaster or drywall mud would work as well.
                        Fabricator

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Altimat
                          Well it worked for you, but it will have shrunk like crazy by the time it finally dries, can crack, is brittle, and I almost never used it when I restored cars for 15 years. I bet it falls off someday. Thats why it only costs $2. Plaster or drywall mud would work as well.
                          I'm not saying it will last forever or even that it is ideal, but I think your understimating it. I used some to smooth out my plaster negative mold of my touchscreen and the glass took to it, and the **** won't sand off (Not easily anyway). As far as shrinking, that's why I worked it up in coats. Then I sanded it to get the same round tip as the other side and still it held. Temperature has been all over the place so thermal expansion can't be that bad either (It's been on months). Though it probably helps that the spoiler is hollow. The big chip (which is the bigger fill) probably allowed the bondo to get inside for a better grip.

                          I would think in a low stress part like that it would be ok.

                          this is the putty I'm referring to BTW.
                          GE Cache Builder | [email protected] |Coolstuff :autospeed.com | bit-tech.net | Nitemax Ultra Pinouts

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Altimat
                            Bondo sticks to metal great just sand it well first. Spot putty is the devil use it very sparingly and only for the very smallest imperfections and pinholes.

                            Oh, its stuck to it great, thats not really the issue. Its moreso for some reason there is a visible difference between the metal and the bondo.

                            Ive used the spot putty in the past on molding 7" screens in and did not seem to run into many problems. But then again, I sold them and haven't seen them, heh.
                            Mazdaspeed Car Computer
                            gotta redo it all

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                            • #15
                              bondo sticks to metal, hence the term body (as in autobody)filler.

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