Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

My E39 Bezel Attempt

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • My E39 Bezel Attempt

    This is my first fabrication of any kind, so don't expect anything fancy! But anyway, I shall show my progress (or lack of) as I do it.

    The screen is an 8" Widescreen from LinITX (same one at CarTFT). Here's a picture showing that the screen fits in the gap:



    I bought 2 DIN adaptors. They fit the top and bottom snugly, so the width is consistant:





    I put them on top of each other. This has given me exactly the right width, but double the height. Here's them glued together using Aroldite (this can glue ur bum cheeks together forever).



    Amazingly, the window is a perfect match for the screen's opening! Look:



    I'm kind of playing this by ear, so the next step is to cut the construction to the right height so that it will fit, then it will be P38 time (bondo)

    Any hints and tips at this stage would be great!
    Current:
    [BMW E46 ///M3 Convertible]

    Previous:
    [BMW E31 850CSi]|[BMW E39 535i]|[BMW HVAC Research]|[IBUS Scrolling Text]|[BMPuter]|[Velocity]|[TomTom]|[Vision]|[Space Navigator Driver]|[Super Fast Boot]

  • #2
    And here's some measurements for those that want to know the size of this screen:

    Total size WxH = 189mm x 120mm
    Visible screen size WxH = 178mm x 108mm



    Current:
    [BMW E46 ///M3 Convertible]

    Previous:
    [BMW E31 850CSi]|[BMW E39 535i]|[BMW HVAC Research]|[IBUS Scrolling Text]|[BMPuter]|[Velocity]|[TomTom]|[Vision]|[Space Navigator Driver]|[Super Fast Boot]

    Comment


    • #3
      Please say that isn't Aroldite on the screen on that last picture?

      Comment


      • #4
        yeah, it's easy to take off... you just cry a little in front of santa

        no, it's aroldite on the bezel, I had it laid on a flat surface so it would join perfectly. I only rippsed off the newspaper from underneath, and I haven't got round to tidying up the glue excess.
        Current:
        [BMW E46 ///M3 Convertible]

        Previous:
        [BMW E31 850CSi]|[BMW E39 535i]|[BMW HVAC Research]|[IBUS Scrolling Text]|[BMPuter]|[Velocity]|[TomTom]|[Vision]|[Space Navigator Driver]|[Super Fast Boot]

        Comment


        • #5
          do you have anything reinforcing the araldite? it is epoxy and not structural by itself. I would add some sheet of fibreglass tissue to the back and cover it with more araldite if i were you.

          Comment


          • #6
            I really can't wait to see if it will fit, and how it will look in there...
            Nice work so far though.
            Renault Megane...the OEM look

            The Lost in Europe Ford Escort

            Comment


            • #7
              fanks scouse, good point!

              I've just bought two types of fiberglass stuff, but didn't know how to use it yet. I've got an idea now tho.

              I know that there will be some places where I will need to fill a lot. would using just p38 do the trick or should I layer it with some fiber/epoxy and build it up layer by layer, then use e39 at the end to shape and sand?
              Current:
              [BMW E46 ///M3 Convertible]

              Previous:
              [BMW E31 850CSi]|[BMW E39 535i]|[BMW HVAC Research]|[IBUS Scrolling Text]|[BMPuter]|[Velocity]|[TomTom]|[Vision]|[Space Navigator Driver]|[Super Fast Boot]

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by sama
                fanks scouse, good point!

                I've just bought two types of fiberglass stuff, but didn't know how to use it yet. I've got an idea now tho.

                I know that there will be some places where I will need to fill a lot. would using just p38 do the trick or should I layer it with some fiber/epoxy and build it up layer by layer, then use e39 at the end to shape and sand?
                e39 is your car dude! don't you mean P40?

                I get mixed up over which isopon is which. One is filler (p40 i think - red pack anyway) and one is fibreglass - blue pack (maybe P38).

                The fibreglass is a polyester resin with chopped glass reinforcement. Personally i would prefer epoxy and I am very tempted to use some of the thick epoxy we have in work. The other stuff is non structural and should not be used for strength or thicker than 1/8th" or it will crack. The glass stuff is pretty strong but messy. If you can afford the araldite you would be better using the some chopped glass mat (not the surface for strength) and aralddite matrix. This is nice and easy to work as araldite is quite runny and the mat can be cut to shape.

                You can get 3 types of glass mat:

                cross ply woven (thick and more difficult to drape)

                chopped strand - not exactly structurally perfect but very good for our purposes and random directions mean good strength in all directions. Also nice and thin and easyt o handle and better than you would think for strength.

                surface tissue - again chopped strand but very thin. Used for laying a smooth surface over coarse stuff. Can be used for structural reinforcement but obviously more layers are needed and the short fibres limit strength.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Scouse Monkey
                  e39 is your car dude! don't you mean P40?

                  Renault Megane...the OEM look

                  The Lost in Europe Ford Escort

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    hehe, it was getting late. I saw that reply and went to bed, rather than type more crap!

                    The stuff I have is a quick sand filler (p38 black tub), so I guess I can't do a big lump of it. Along with that, I bought a fiberglass kit from halfords. It contains a bottle of fastglas resin, an activator and a sheet of fiberglass which looks like chopped strand (each strand is short and randomly directed). Finally, I got some glass fiber tissue.

                    So I guess the way to do this is as follows:

                    Layer with thick fiberglass slowly until the structure is shaped, then final layer(s) with tissue, once I have the shape I want by sanding/trimming, use P38 and sand for smooth finish. correct?
                    Current:
                    [BMW E46 ///M3 Convertible]

                    Previous:
                    [BMW E31 850CSi]|[BMW E39 535i]|[BMW HVAC Research]|[IBUS Scrolling Text]|[BMPuter]|[Velocity]|[TomTom]|[Vision]|[Space Navigator Driver]|[Super Fast Boot]

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      spot on. make sure you give the fastglas resin (probably polyester) time to cure in a warm dry place.Infact, if you can get it to a high temp that doesnt melt the bezel (50-70 maybe) then the piece may survive heat soak in a car interior better as dash parts can get pretty hot causing the resin to soften. Not that inportant but it also helps prevent any softening of the resin when putting on the p38 and prevents flexing which will cause the filler to crack which I have seen on a few bmw installs and being an 8" screen you ahve quite a large bezel. Basically, don't rush it.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Ta! That's really good advice. It's kinda like tempred glass I take it.

                        How about this: I'll heat my oven with some of the (s)crap plastic that remain from that bezel after cutting, and see what temprature the plastic starts softening. Once I determine that I'll know to reduce it by like 10 degrees or so and that'll be the curing temprature.

                        I need to pick ur brain just a little more at this point to make sure I'm gonna do the right steps.

                        I'll first get the full shape I want with the rough stuff, waiting like 10m between layers, then when all the rough layers are on, cook it. correct?

                        How much cooking time do u think it'll need?

                        I'm thinking of applying the smooth tissue layer at the end with Aroldite after the rough stuff is all dry and dandy. Is this a good idea? And will that need any cooking? (if so, is the cooking time any different?)

                        Nitty picky details I know, fabrication noob at work!
                        Current:
                        [BMW E46 ///M3 Convertible]

                        Previous:
                        [BMW E31 850CSi]|[BMW E39 535i]|[BMW HVAC Research]|[IBUS Scrolling Text]|[BMPuter]|[Velocity]|[TomTom]|[Vision]|[Space Navigator Driver]|[Super Fast Boot]

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          10m is a bit long. You want to catch it still tacky so it crosslinks with the previous layer.

                          make sure you support the bezel shape when curing incase it deforms. some balsa or paper will do the trick.

                          be careful curing in your domestic oven. The fumes given off are not nice.

                          curing time about 2hrs should be fine - jsut helps with the reaction

                          whent he final coat is tacky - then apply the tissue layer. then do the cure. Otherwise you will end up with an onion peel effect when sanding.

                          If you do add layer layers rouch up the surface with emery cloth.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            scouse, I typed in peugot 306 on google image search... a nice suprise at the bottom of the fist page

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              http://images.google.co.uk/images?sv...06&btnG=Search

                              i take ti you spelt peugeot right like that. nice vag shot! see what girls will do when they see us 306 drivers!!!

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X