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Acrylic and Tensol 70????

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  • Acrylic and Tensol 70????

    I play with Acrylic alot, I cut and mold also can flame polish, but there is one big thing I am having problems with, and that is cementing

    I am using Tensol 70, and if any one here has used it they should know that making sure that the air is out of the joints when cementing them together is easy if you place the right amount of Tensol on

    THIS IS THE PROBLEM, I put to much on as less is not working to well so I get alot of squese out on the sides, what I need to know is how I remove this mess withought loosing the shine etc etc

    hope some one knows
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  • #2
    when i work with acrylic, i use IPS Weld-On 3 or 4. The trick to the cleanest joints in my experience is to make sure the joint is nice and tight to begin with, then use either a razor blade and scrape or high-grit wet sanding to make the edge smooth and devoid of any major cut marks. When you put the two pieces together, you take a syringe or similar applicator and let it wick into the joint. makes for very mess-free, clean and clear joints.

    to answer your question, your best bet is to wait for it to dry... try not to smear it or let it drip on things as it dries,and then sand it off. If you go through the steps of sanding, you can either flame polish or buff it to a final finish.

    but i think using Weld-On is much simpler and faster to get the same result.
    Et ipsa scientia potestas est.

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    • #3
      Great reply, is this IPS Weld-On easy to get hold of as I had a right job getting hold of Tensol 70 as I was told that was the best, aslo syringes are hald to get hold of as every one I ask look at me like I am a smack head or somthing, can you help on these.

      Please note I am in the uk
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      • #4
        the website is www.ipscorp.com I'm sure you could call the contact numbers and either order direct or find a UK distributor.

        also, http://www.plasticareinc.com/ is the homepage of the local plastics supply i go to. There is a man who works there named Heath. Very knowledeable and helpful. I would bet dime to a dollar if you asked him he could either sell to you directly or let you know who you could buy from. Specifically, he carries plastic squeeze bottles with un-sharpened needles so you don't have to worry about jabbing yourself.

        upon doing some more research, I discovered Tensol is the UK equivalent of the IPS product... supposedly. IPS makes Weld-On 40 which is a two-part goo similar to what you were working with.

        Look a little deeper into Tensol and see if they have a water-thin solvent cement, call Heath, call IPS. I imagine you could get it done that way.
        Et ipsa scientia potestas est.

        Worklog for my 2007 Civic Si ...f*** it...
        Pictures of the Corolla (retired)here
        Need to make something? Here are a few ideas.

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        • #5
          Totally agree with GoHybrid on this none. I'm a plastic's machinst by day, and all we use is WeldOn 3 for Acrylic, ABS, and Lexan. It works great. Just be sure to hold your joints extremely tight, and get them as clean as you can before you glue. WeldOn 3 is very liquidy, so you have to apply it with a needle as it dries so quickly.
          - Chris Williamson
          Interior Technology
          '02 Ford Ranger
          '68 InvaderGT - Custom Kit Car

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          • #6
            thanks guys, I have been playing today and set my self up a home made table router so that should help with making the edgis neeter, I was scraping cut sides and to be honest they were bad so I think this will help me.

            Tomoz I hope to try again with this tensol I have as it cost quite a bit so want to see how I do with that first thanks for the help
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            • #7
              OK the glue thing is working, but I have a bigger problem now that I didnt think I would get.

              I used 1200 wet and dry with watter to get read of the glue mess and I tried brass cleaner as I was told that it woul polish it but nope it does to a degree but leaves some of the deap scratch's.

              so my question is, what the hell can I use to polish it up like glass?

              Please help
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              • #8
                okay... here's where you just need to get the right products. wherever you have scratches, you need to sand. Start with the finest sandpaper that starts to smooth out the scratch. If it's disappearing in a sea of smaller scratches that your sandpaper is making, then you're getting it. If you can still make out the scratch, go a little coarser. 1200 wet won't do anything to a deep scratch... you need to look at like 400-600... maybe 240 if it's really deep.

                Second... always use a sanding block of foam rubber or the like. It makes for even pressure so you don't get as many waves. Lastly, when you're polishing out acrylic, you need to use a plastic buffing compound and a high-speed polishing wheel. PBC should not be used until you have sanded the entire scratched area to at least 2000 grit wet. It should look a little hazy, but clear before you start buffing. You should not see any scratches.

                If you do it this way, wear sunglasses because it gets damn shiny when you polish it out. Novus makes a good plastic polishing line.
                Et ipsa scientia potestas est.

                Worklog for my 2007 Civic Si ...f*** it...
                Pictures of the Corolla (retired)here
                Need to make something? Here are a few ideas.

                Comment


                • #9
                  ok I will look into that thank you, lol it was the sand paper that scratched it so its the going from 1200's to polish that I did wrong also I will need to get some plastic buffing compound, thanks
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