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Modifying a Plastic Bezel. Epoxy, Fiber, Bodyfiller+Resin?

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  • Modifying a Plastic Bezel. Epoxy, Fiber, Bodyfiller+Resin?

    Ok so heres a pic of the bezel




    Now I have some Cargroom? Body filler from autozone. I bought short strand fiber and long strand. Then I went to advanced auto and bought some Plastic weld epoxy(3 tubes)

    Now I aslo saw cargroom and bondo brand GOLD class body filler. Whats the difference between the normal stuff and this?

    Should I try a fibermat for my needs? Or should I make a bezel thats the proper screen size. then epoxy/fill it in. Then fill with body filler.

    If I do this should I use any of the ones with fiberglass in them, or should I go get some standard filler?
    Car : 00' Chrysler 300M
    Speakers : Rainbow Audio SLC 265 | Subs : Diamond Audio D6 12" Subs X2
    Amp's : Hifonics ZXi 6006 AB | Hifonics BXi 1606 D
    CarPC: HP Laptop AMD Sempron 3000+ | 1.5GB RAM | DVD+RW | 80GB 5400RPM HD | ATI R200 Video

  • #2
    Lots of questions there, my friend. Fortunately, there are lots of answers in similar projects posted on the forums already. I think that the reason no one has replied in two days is because you asked a bunch of questions. Do some research, post those questions one at a time, and people will probably be more forthcoming with answers.

    I had good luck cutting, assembling, and painting my ABS plastic trim pieces using an epoxy putty (sounds similar to the stick you're describing), lots of sandpaper, Krylon automotive primer, a red bondo filler paste, more sanding and primer, and a lacquer-based color matched top coat. A few pics are in my worklog...link is in the sig.

    Good luck.

    An amateur built the Ark. The Titanic was built by professionals.

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    • #3
      from my experience, i'd recommend doing the abs sludge method of bonding the plastic instead of using fillers and fiberglass
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      • #4
        well since I asked so much and got no response i did this

        I took the large sheet of abs plastic i got from partsexpress. made a cutout that filled in the holes in the bezel and epoxied it in

        Then I laid down a layer of fiberglass bondo and made a huge mess.

        then I laid down large globes of gold bondo and tried to smoothen it out. In the end made a larger mess and stunk up the place bad. Also seems like I used too much hardener as it hardened up fairly quickly

        we shall see what happens tommorrow when I attack it with a rasp/file




        As for reading up. I've read every forum and every post I could here. Literally have spent months doing such. I just keep seeing the run around. use this, dont use this. No dont use that use this! and so on, over and over again. The bezel was free so I dont mind screwing up. I still have 2 more. We shall see what happens.

        I need to make a cutout of where the screens going to go. I know I should have done that first in the abs sheet I epoxied in but the fumes confused me!
        Car : 00' Chrysler 300M
        Speakers : Rainbow Audio SLC 265 | Subs : Diamond Audio D6 12" Subs X2
        Amp's : Hifonics ZXi 6006 AB | Hifonics BXi 1606 D
        CarPC: HP Laptop AMD Sempron 3000+ | 1.5GB RAM | DVD+RW | 80GB 5400RPM HD | ATI R200 Video

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        • #5
          I must say. my first attempt at bondo was a magnificent failure!

          I did use way too much hardener. While I was trying to form/smoothen it out it hardened on my plastic putty spreader. Big giant lumps were left! It was great!

          Seems the fiberglass cargroom filler didnt like sticking to ABS much. I was able to, with good force and flexing, remove it from the bezel. as seen here



          Heres the bezel afterwards



          Pic of bezel, backside of bondo creation and my touchscreens bezel



          Now im back to square one. The abs sheet is fully epoxied in. I cant punch it out even if I wanted to.


          Should I cut the hole for the screen now? Any ideas on how to make this cut easier?

          Or should I just bondo it, smooth it out. then cut the hole and continue smoothing/shaping.


          It seems bondo gold will stick to abs alone. I did a small test patch and I cant get it off. So i wont be using the fiberglass reinforced stuff for this. I'm going to try to get bondo to stick to the dried epoxy next. if that works out then I might use the other two tubes of plastic weld I have to fill in as much as I can. then bondo.
          Car : 00' Chrysler 300M
          Speakers : Rainbow Audio SLC 265 | Subs : Diamond Audio D6 12" Subs X2
          Amp's : Hifonics ZXi 6006 AB | Hifonics BXi 1606 D
          CarPC: HP Laptop AMD Sempron 3000+ | 1.5GB RAM | DVD+RW | 80GB 5400RPM HD | ATI R200 Video

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          • #6
            Larger pics here
            http://s66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...gAnch=imgAnch1
            Car : 00' Chrysler 300M
            Speakers : Rainbow Audio SLC 265 | Subs : Diamond Audio D6 12" Subs X2
            Amp's : Hifonics ZXi 6006 AB | Hifonics BXi 1606 D
            CarPC: HP Laptop AMD Sempron 3000+ | 1.5GB RAM | DVD+RW | 80GB 5400RPM HD | ATI R200 Video

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            • #7
              well, if i did this i would have done something like "Mega" did http://megatr0n.blogspot.com start from the bottom

              remove the bezel from minitor, cut a hole in you faceplate exactly minitor size (you should have decided whether you want to stay with buttons)

              attach the bezel to the faceplate with epoxy, use body filler to fill the cracks, and sand until satisfied, then plant the screen, and you are set

              Yev
              R. T. F. M

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              • #8
                Originally posted by scott_fx View Post
                from my experience, i'd recommend doing the abs sludge method of bonding the plastic instead of using fillers and fiberglass
                technically Scott is right, because technically you are bonding 2 different compounds, on the other hand i lot of people got away with body filler, after my screen was finished i have laminated it in vynil to preserve against chipping

                Yev
                R. T. F. M

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Yevmeister View Post
                  well, if i did this i would have done something like "Mega" did http://megatr0n.blogspot.com start from the bottom

                  remove the bezel from minitor, cut a hole in you faceplate exactly minitor size (you should have decided whether you want to stay with buttons)

                  attach the bezel to the faceplate with epoxy, use body filler to fill the cracks, and sand until satisfied, then plant the screen, and you are set

                  Yev
                  Theres the problem. I dont want to use the default monitor bezel as if i want to sell this monitor in the future i'd like to be able to put it back together.

                  I dont want the buttons but I do plan on relocating the ir sensor somewhere into the bezel.

                  Right now im thinking i'll first cut the hole for the monitor, then I'll use the rest of my abs sheet to fill in as much as i can with epoxy and abs sheets

                  Lastly I'll bondo. Doing this would mean using alot less bondo than if i tried to fill it all in with filler.
                  Car : 00' Chrysler 300M
                  Speakers : Rainbow Audio SLC 265 | Subs : Diamond Audio D6 12" Subs X2
                  Amp's : Hifonics ZXi 6006 AB | Hifonics BXi 1606 D
                  CarPC: HP Laptop AMD Sempron 3000+ | 1.5GB RAM | DVD+RW | 80GB 5400RPM HD | ATI R200 Video

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                  • #10
                    well by doing that the difficulty is handred times tougher

                    but here is the solution, you can buy a empty 8 inch dimater liilipiut monitor housing, i am sure that lcd panel is the same, so it will scren in in hinges no problem

                    $15.00 @ http://digitalww.com/lilliput_housing_8.htm

                    the only other simple way i see you accomplishing is custom Plexiglass cutout, where you can implant lcd hingles, and infrared

                    Yev
                    R. T. F. M

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Yevmeister View Post
                      well by doing that the difficulty is handred times tougher

                      but here is the solution, you can buy a empty 8 inch dimater liilipiut monitor housing, i am sure that lcd panel is the same, so it will scren in in hinges no problem

                      $15.00 @ http://digitalww.com/lilliput_housing_8.htm

                      the only other simple way i see you accomplishing is custom Plexiglass cutout, where you can implant lcd hingles, and infrared

                      Yev
                      I saw that bezel and considered it but i'd need exact measurements to make sure it fits the screen well.

                      I dont see why i would need a custom plexiglass cutout. I' plan on using the back of the lcd housing, a piece of plastic, some screws and some tape to hold it into the bezel.
                      Car : 00' Chrysler 300M
                      Speakers : Rainbow Audio SLC 265 | Subs : Diamond Audio D6 12" Subs X2
                      Amp's : Hifonics ZXi 6006 AB | Hifonics BXi 1606 D
                      CarPC: HP Laptop AMD Sempron 3000+ | 1.5GB RAM | DVD+RW | 80GB 5400RPM HD | ATI R200 Video

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                      • #12
                        screen will fit no matter what cause lcd boards are standardized size, check out lcd display forums for 8 inch lilloput, and comapre dimensions with what you have

                        tape, even hot glue will not work after driving for awhile with so many vibrations puddle, eventually it will fly off, you will need a window cutout inside the faceplate you can utilize touch screen

                        Yev
                        R. T. F. M

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Yevmeister View Post
                          screen will fit no matter what cause lcd boards are standardized size, check out lcd display forums for 8 inch lilloput, and comapre dimensions with what you have

                          tape, even hot glue will not work after driving for awhile with so many vibrations puddle, eventually it will fly off, you will need a window cutout inside the faceplate you can utilize touch screen

                          Yev
                          dimensions dont match

                          I have
                          width 7 7/8"
                          height 6"

                          For my screens active area
                          Car : 00' Chrysler 300M
                          Speakers : Rainbow Audio SLC 265 | Subs : Diamond Audio D6 12" Subs X2
                          Amp's : Hifonics ZXi 6006 AB | Hifonics BXi 1606 D
                          CarPC: HP Laptop AMD Sempron 3000+ | 1.5GB RAM | DVD+RW | 80GB 5400RPM HD | ATI R200 Video

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                          • #14
                            oh well i am sorry to hear that, all i can do is wish you a goodluck,

                            please don't hesitate to pm anytime you have a question

                            Yev
                            R. T. F. M

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                            • #15
                              your only viable option then is to make a mold out of the bezel that you currently have. Id also try contacting the company directly to see if they will sell you a seperate bezel, cause the work involved any other way is just too time consuming for nothing gained

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