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GMC Sonoma - 1020TSV and Billet A/C Vents

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  • GMC Sonoma - 1020TSV and Billet A/C Vents

    So I've started on this a while back as some of you may know, but now that I finally have things to show that I'm proud of I figured I'll post a few pics to show everyone where I'm at, as well as my progress.

    I'll start with the fiberglassed dash bezel with a frame for a 10.2 inch 16:9 Xenarc 1020TSV Touchscreen monitor, as well as the Billet Specialties A/C Vents. So far it's been hand sanded with 40 grit, but as you can see some guide coating still remains. Once I'm done with removing all of the guide coating, I'll add some mar glass, sand that down with 40 grit, and then move up to the rage xtreme.








    And for those of you who already assumed that I relocated my A/C vents to the glovebox, think again. I'm putting them in the ashtrayas they'll be out of sight, yet still convenient.





    And just for anyone whos really curious heres a few pics of the modified ATX mobo, cut to fit in my center console, as well as the DSATX 220Watt Power Supply/Mobo/and processor.






    Tomorrow I should have some more pics of my most recent progress. I've added all the marglass necessary, and layed down the very last coat of rage gold xtreme body filler.

    All that's left is one small skim coat of rage xtreme to shave the line above the gauges, and another thin coat to cover up a hole in the dash from an earlier led for an alarm.

  • #2
    looks good keep up the good work

    Comment


    • #3
      What's the big spot in-between the vents for?

      What's modified about that motherboard?

      Comment


      • #4
        THe big round spot between the two A/C vents is for the later addition of a Dakota Digital Odyssey Air Pressure Gauge. Later on I plan on putting airbags on the truck, and since I hate the look of gauges anywhere else I figured it would be best to plan ahead and give it a spot.

        And nothing is modified of the mobo, I just forgot to put mobo tray. Silly mistake on my part.

        Comment


        • #5
          Still, that is one sweet setup, simple and clean. Cant wait to see paint on it!
          Dont tell me to shut up, I'm Rick James ******!!!

          Comment


          • #6
            Cool. Post pics after it's been hit with 400 grit

            Comment


            • #7
              Heh, all the comments definately make me want to start working on it, but I won't have any updates until monday.

              I don't have the time to do any work on it during the weekends, and I'm missing my camera right now...

              And trust me when I say the when it's to the point of being sanded with 400 grit I'll definately post pictures since I'll be so proud of myself. I was looking at it this morning, and Im definately impressed seeing as it was the first time I have ever messed with fiberglass.

              Now I'm just waiting to see how my painting skills are...

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by megalomania View Post
                Now I'm just waiting to see how my painting skills are...
                Looking good. The biggest suggestion I can give is get a quart of this http://www.autobodybrands.com/primers/fliers/5425.pdf

                When you think you have it shaped the way you want it. Shoot some 2K as a filler. Guide coat and sand with 400. If it looks good use the 2K as a sealer and paint.

                I would only use the Rage on areas that need a lot of filling. Use the 2K or SlickSand to fill everything else in. Saves a lot of time.
                2007 Tahoe
                Opus with iBase 896 and Pentium M 735 Transflective Xenarc Alpine DVA-9861, PXA-H900, Sinfoni 45X2 (2) 90x2, Genesis Dual Mono, JL 1000/1 (2), Focal Be tweeters, ScanSpeak Revelator Mids, Dynaudio MW170, Dayton 12" Ref.

                My Install

                Comment


                • #9
                  After seeing your project I feel damn good about myself.

                  Heh, I've already bought the slicksand, but since I've never messed with it before I'm a bit clueless as to it's fill abilities. It probably would of worked just fine going over the fiberglass with it, but I figured I'd take my time and use the rage xtreme to even everything out. I don't know if you can see it but in the pictures the fiberglass on the sides wasn't layed down perfectly so instead of just filling in the problem spots I figured I'd do the whole thing and give me a base of something I've worked with before. Not only that but sanding fiberglass isn't fun and I didn't want to spend any more time than the initial prep for the rage xtreme.

                  Just wondering but how is that 2k primer? I've heard good things about slick sand, and thats the main reason I bought it for this build, but is the 2k comparable or better?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    The slick sand is a bit thicker. If you have some serious filling it would be better to use it. The 2K is a little thicker than FeatherFill if that helps. The nice thing is it can be thinned to be a lighter filler or the sealer.
                    2007 Tahoe
                    Opus with iBase 896 and Pentium M 735 Transflective Xenarc Alpine DVA-9861, PXA-H900, Sinfoni 45X2 (2) 90x2, Genesis Dual Mono, JL 1000/1 (2), Focal Be tweeters, ScanSpeak Revelator Mids, Dynaudio MW170, Dayton 12" Ref.

                    My Install

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I would just shoot it with the SlickSand. Much easier to get a uniform coat that applying Rage. I would just use the Rage for any areas where you have large areas you want leveled. If you just want all the little holes/voids leveled out the SS should take care of it in a lot less time. Plus if will give you a more even base to start with.
                      2007 Tahoe
                      Opus with iBase 896 and Pentium M 735 Transflective Xenarc Alpine DVA-9861, PXA-H900, Sinfoni 45X2 (2) 90x2, Genesis Dual Mono, JL 1000/1 (2), Focal Be tweeters, ScanSpeak Revelator Mids, Dynaudio MW170, Dayton 12" Ref.

                      My Install

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        bad news....

                        during a trial fit of the xenarc touchscreen panel I accidently broke it.

                        I was a bit shocked when I heard the crack, but I hoped for the best but much to my dismay the whole panel was shattered. Any one have any ideas as to how much a replacement will cost, or if replacements are even available for this monitor?

                        Looks like things are going to be delayed quite a bit til the new panel arrives, so I can be sure everything fit's perfectly before it's primered.

                        I'm ****ed right now...

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          you can find a direct replacement screen for $65 here. http://www.xenarcdirect.com/home.php...ction=0&page=2

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            The replacement screens you linked to are meant for Xenarc 7" LCD line, and they aren't meant as replacements for my 10.2 INCH 1020TSV.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              opps sorry for some reason i thought you had the 7" screen

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