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  • 350z carputer owners , step in

    i am looking to do a carputer install on 03 Z with bose, how would I go about using my stock radio and fit RCA inputs to it, I Heard it was done and I need a PAC adapter but how would I be using it, as in what mode would I go in to swtich to PC ( i.e radio, cd,tape?)

    Thanks

  • #2
    any1 any input?

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    • #3
      Search. There was a post like this not more than 2 weeks ago, by a 350Z owner. It was discussed exhaustively.

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      • #4
        well i guess my searchin skills suck, can any1 help me out here

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        • #5
          http://www.logjamelectronics.com/soundauxniss.html

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          • #6
            The PAC adapter gives you 2 aux inputs. In the Bose HU, you would select SR1 or SR2.
            CAR:06 350Z | LCD:Xenarc 700TSV | PS:M2-ATX | CPU:2.0GHz Turion 64 | MB:GA-K8N51GMF | RAM:1GB PC3500 DDR | HDD:WD 250GB SATA | USB1:Zoom 140M WiFi | USB2:iOne Scorpius Keyboard | USB3:Logitech Wingman | SERIAL:GPS BR-355

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            • #7
              Oh I misread your post, I thought you were trying to replace the Bose. Yeah I think you can use the changer input as an aux-in. Looks like these other guys've got you covered.

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              • #8
                how would I select SR1 or SR2 physically on my HU which button would I press, because I do not have SAT no ABC button on my faceplate

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by ukraini9mofo View Post
                  how would I select SR1 or SR2 physically on my HU which button would I press, because I do not have SAT no ABC button on my faceplate
                  You press the "RADIO" button. It cycles through radio, CD, SR1 and SR2. SR1 = Pac Aux input 1 and SR2 = Pac Aux input 2.
                  CAR:06 350Z | LCD:Xenarc 700TSV | PS:M2-ATX | CPU:2.0GHz Turion 64 | MB:GA-K8N51GMF | RAM:1GB PC3500 DDR | HDD:WD 250GB SATA | USB1:Zoom 140M WiFi | USB2:iOne Scorpius Keyboard | USB3:Logitech Wingman | SERIAL:GPS BR-355

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                  • #10
                    I have 03 and there is no radio button there is only AM/FM

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by ukraini9mofo View Post
                      I have 03 and there is no radio button there is only AM/FM
                      Don't know. Two large buttons for me are "CD" and "RADIO." Look in your user manual on how to select satellite radio if you had that option install.
                      CAR:06 350Z | LCD:Xenarc 700TSV | PS:M2-ATX | CPU:2.0GHz Turion 64 | MB:GA-K8N51GMF | RAM:1GB PC3500 DDR | HDD:WD 250GB SATA | USB1:Zoom 140M WiFi | USB2:iOne Scorpius Keyboard | USB3:Logitech Wingman | SERIAL:GPS BR-355

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                      • #12
                        so Im guessing only solution to an o3 is just to hardwire the AUX input to the tape?

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                        • #13
                          Does your radio have the ability to play sat radio? If it does then you can plug in the PAC Audio unit.

                          Unfortunately the European based Z's don't have the ability to play Sat. radio, this means we can't use the PAC Audio box.

                          Failing that, you either go down the route of opening up the stereo and soldering a wire inside and use a dummy tape or rip it all out and start again (which is what I am thinking of doing).

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                          • #14
                            waht do u mean rip it all out and start again?

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by ukraini9mofo View Post
                              waht do u mean rip it all out and start again?
                              Sorry for the delay. Rip it out and start again means you would have to change the HU and buy a new one.

                              However my first set of instructions may help you out.

                              I have managed to find the correct information and pictures to allow European owners to modify their radios and add an Aux In.

                              This is a copy of a post I made on the www.My350Z.com website, this post is a combination of a number of posts on the first page which were missing their pictures, I found someone who had these pictures and have made a single post.


                              ************************************************** **

                              1. Remove the dash and take the head unit out of it.
                              The guide here: http://liljerk.morpheus.net/350Z/ is excellent (thanks my350z.com).


                              2. Remove the front (plastic) panel of the head unit.

                              It is held on by little clips all around perimeter. You can see two of them in this shot which was taken when I was testing to see if it worked. There are two on each side and three at the top and bottom. Slide a small screwdriver in between the plastic and the metal, gently lever the plastic up from the clip and slide a thin piece of card between the two to allow you to tackle the next one.



                              All clips done the front panel and the PCB that holds all the front panel controls should come off without much force (if you have to force it, some of the clips arenít loose)


                              3. Remove the (perforated) bottom of the head unit.

                              It is held on by four small Philips screws through the bottom panel, two screws through the back and two screws through the front. All these removed carefully lever the bottom panel off at each side (at the join line) it will take a little force as there are some friction clips built into the side and (I think) the front.


                              4. Remove the cassette unit.

                              The cassette unit is now sitting right in front of you. This picture was taken while I was reassembling the head unit but shows where the four screws that hold the cassette unit in are (theyíre removed in this picture). To take the cassette unit out just remove these four screws and lift the unit vertically upwards.






                              5. Find the correct PCB traces and break them.

                              If you cassette unit looks like mine the back will look like this. The part sticking up (with 97-794-Y00 written on it) is the connector that plugs into the main PCB.




                              This picture shows how helpfully the PCB identifies what trace carries what signal. We need to break the traces for the Left (L-CH) and Right Channels (R-CH) plus the Audio ground (A-GND) upstream of the solder blobs (we will use those blobs to attach a cable to). You can break the traces by just scraping through them with the tip of a knife or some other sharp object (a jewellers screwdriver is ideal). You can see where Iíve done this in this closeup (note that I was a bit careless and let the knife slip a little).





                              6. Attach a line out lead to the cassette unit PCB.

                              I just used a cheapo phono patch cord and cut one end off it. Carefully strip the cable. Wind the braided sleeves from the left and right channels together and tin them with a soldering iron. Strip the insulation off the left and right signal leads and tin those also.

                              It is easier to keep the leads about one inch long at this stage. You can cut them to the correct length now (for the A-GND lead) or after youíve soldered them in position (for the L-CH and R-CH signal leads). It is very easy to attach the leads to the solder blobs on the cassette unit PCB as long as youíve tinned them properly and everything is clean (I find a tiny amount of plumbers/corrosive flux aka soldering paste helps but you must clean any residue off the PCB when youíve finished)

                              Here is a picture of the cassette unit with the line out attached.





                              7. Threading the cable out the back of the headunit

                              If you used a cheapo patch lead like me the plugs should be small enough to feed through the various holes in the metalwork. If you used some nice shiny audiophile leads with big plugs my apologies because I should have warned you to feed the cable through first before you soldered it in place.

                              There is a metal bulkhead just behind the cassette unit This has a suitable hole on one side. You can see the cable fed through it here (this picture is taken with the satellite board that contains the Nav interface removed for ease of access. It is attached with two screws at the back, youíve already removed the right hand one to get the bottom off).



                              And there is a hole in the back of my headunit covered by a sticky black plastic patch. Peel that off and feed the lead through it. Before you do it might be a good idea to put sort of strain relief in. I did this by just loosely knotting the cable just before it exits the case.



                              8. Reassemble everything

                              In the reverse order that you took it out; so:
                              Fasten the cassette unit back with the four screws
                              If you removed it put the Nav daughterboard back but donít screw it in until youíve put the bottom back on
                              Push the bottom plate back on and insert all screws (at this point fasten the Nav daughterboard back)
                              Carefully push the front panel back into place. It shouldnít take much force and should make a nice click when itís back in position.

                              You should now have something that looks like this:





                              9. Testing and use

                              It is probably worth testing that it works before reassembling the dash. I didnít have a wiring loom for the Bose outside of the 350Z so I just plugged it in and connected the phono leads to a portable iRiver MP3 player. Here is a picture.



                              Pressing ďTapeĒ should now activate the line in. But you will need to fool the Bose into thinking that it is playing a tape (or nothing will happen). To do this I simply used a cassette adapter (one of the ones whose sound quality was so bad) with the input lead cut off (the picture is taken before the lead was given the chop, itís not connected).

                              It worked perfectly with much better sound quality than either a tape adapter (whose signal has to pass through two tape heads a few amplifier stages and some equalisation to get it to the point where youíve soldered the leads) or an FM modulator (I tried two, they were both lousy).

                              I was worried that the input would be very easy to clip and wouldnít be able to handle line level signals. A definitive judgement will await the arrival of my OmniFi DMP1 MP3 jukebox, but in the test with the iRiver (which is an iPod clone) I wasnít able to detect any obvious clipping even with the iRiver at very high volumes (at which point the line in was much louder than either radio or CD) so it seems to be useable.



                              10. Caveats/warnings

                              This seems to work for me; I donít use cassette at all so sacrificing it was an easy choice to make. It is pretty easy process (actually getting the dash off was harder) but breaking the PCB traces probably isnít easily reversible, so be careful. I donít know what will happen if you cut any of the other traces.

                              This was done on a 2003 350Z in Singapore Ė if your Bose headunit is substantially different from the pictures or doesnít have the helpful labels on each trace or you donít feel comfortable taking it apart you might want to think about some other route.

                              Hope that this helps some people.

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