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  • How hot is too hot?

    I'm just getting ready to install the car computer in my wife's car. I was testing everything on the bench and left it running for about an hour. I just happened to notice that it was very hot, so I put two thermocouples on it and on top of the case, I measured 113 F and just inside the case under the motherboard I measured 143 F!

    That is not good. This computer will go in a car in Florida where it is already very hot when you first get in the car. Plus this is a bench test. When it is installed in the dash, it will be in cramped quarters and therefore hold the heat even better. I'm pretty sure I don't have room to put a fan in the dash and even if I did, I don't know where the air would flow to.

    I made the case out of the old radio. It has lots of ventilation holes, the back is completely open and the front is about 95% covered by the touchscreen.

    The board is a Phylon and only has a small fan on the CPU.

    What do the rest of you guys do, who mount their car computers in the radio hole?

    You can see the build on my website at www.ozone1000.com

  • #2
    hi, click on my car puter install below to learn about temps, and in dash pc install, see heat remedies that I've implemented into my build.

    best wishes and happy new year!

    ~David
    Check out my CARPC: Project Diamond Plate

    Quick Reference:
    CPU Electrical Specs
    Power Supply Calculator

    Video Connections for newbies
    Temperature Converter
    Voltage Calculator

    Comment


    • #3
      get a 4 or 5cm fan, and suck some air out of the case

      you will need to drill / make intake holes too, more intake holes less wind noise

      and depending on the speed of the fan running it off the 5V rail of the pc might be better, if that give you enough airflow.
      ill find a pic of my case...

      thats my case, its has 2 sides open, with a grill on them and fans on one side..
      [media]http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/attachments/show-off-your-project/51966d1223408158-1994-nissan-bluebird-dscf1767_resize.jpg[/media]

      nice install dmand

      Comment


      • #4
        if you have the ability, i would say underclock and undervolt your cpu if possible, and same for video, be it igp or gpu, but ya like others said you will need some kind of fans at least, though undervolting will help in reducing the heat amount

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Woofnstuff View Post
          nice install dmand
          Thanks woofnstuff I really enjoy the hardware and fabrication side of the this hobby.
          Check out my CARPC: Project Diamond Plate

          Quick Reference:
          CPU Electrical Specs
          Power Supply Calculator

          Video Connections for newbies
          Temperature Converter
          Voltage Calculator

          Comment


          • #6
            I'm checking to see where I might put a small fan, now. I'll report back if I find out anything interesting.

            Comment


            • #7
              Water cool that sucka!!

              Comment


              • #8
                Water cooling will not help when the ambient temperature is high, it can only cool to that temp

                and if the ambient temp isnt high, then you probably just need regular fans and good copper heat sinks

                water cooling IMO will only help if your putting out a lot of heat, and are doing something with O/C and a hardcore video card, then it can help, but for standard cooling you dont need to go with water

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by WuNgUn View Post
                  Water cool that sucka!!

                  While that contraption looks h3lla cool, running four 120mm fans will pull approximately two amps, or 50-75 watts with the pump on. That's a bit excessive to be a practical cooling solution in a vehicle.

                  I'd put that radiator in front of the vehicle's radiator just to see how it stacks up with the car running, and check the temps for improvement. It would use less voltage from the battery, thereby giving your pc additional run time.

                  Although the difference may be marginal, it means extended run time nevertheless.

                  A second battery will only strain the alternator if it's not a high output design. The more amps you pull, the longer it takes the alternator to charge the batteries back to its original fully charged state.
                  Check out my CARPC: Project Diamond Plate

                  Quick Reference:
                  CPU Electrical Specs
                  Power Supply Calculator

                  Video Connections for newbies
                  Temperature Converter
                  Voltage Calculator

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    The 2 rad fans are controlled by the mainboard...they run at 35% (1100rpm) most of the time (Speedfan)...
                    The other 2 fans will be controlled manually using Fusion Brain...maybe on startup only and/or blistering hot days...

                    Drutort: Are you telling me AIR cooling can cool below ambient but water cooling can not??

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      dMand- Ok, I've read your whole post now, in some detail and I'd like to congratulate you on your attention to the install.

                      Here are some comments and questions:

                      First there is a small error at the beginning. You mention it was freezing outside at 32c and that the computer was at 22c and you were wondering why it was 10 degrees cooler. The answer is that 0c is freezing, so it was actually 22c hotter than ambient.

                      Second, I don't totally understand the install. You say that the plate you made acts as an air vent, but then you cover it with the airbag cover (or do you leave that off most of the time?). You also mention that it is vented elsewhere, but don't mention where. Also, isn't the fan on the passenger side of the door covered by the door when it shuts?

                      Your install would not work for me, because I do not want to remove the airbag. Plus, I use my glove box and don't want to give up that space. Nor do I wish to mount the LCD on the passenger door.

                      Don't get me wrong, this is a really cool install, it's just not for me, and the original question regarded whether or not I needed cooling and if so, did I just choose the wrong components or something, because I knew that other people had essentially double DIN computers in their dashboards and I was wondering how they kept them cool. I have limited space in the dash for fans.

                      Also, I was under the impression that larger "home" monitors don't use 12V DC. I thought they were 17 VDC or something like that. Can you elaborate. Also, if it is that big, it is probably not sunlight readable, so do you get a lot of glare, because in my other car, I was thinking about using a normal monitor as well. You can get a lot larger size for a lot less money if you don't go with one of these tiny screens.

                      Thanks for the info and great install!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by WuNgUn View Post
                        The 2 rad fans are controlled by the mainboard...they run at 35% (1100rpm) most of the time (Speedfan)...
                        The other 2 fans will be controlled manually using Fusion Brain...maybe on startup only and/or blistering hot days...

                        Drutort: Are you telling me AIR cooling can cool below ambient but water cooling can not??
                        no i mean neither can, but water cooling can pull more heat, but in that guys case and in 90% of people who do carPC's they dont make that much heat to start with and only good copper HS with fan is enough (and some fans to move the hot air some other place if possible)

                        only peltier and refrigeration can cool below ambient

                        and both take a lot of energy to run, and peltier can take 2x what it cools and you still have to cool the hot side lol

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Yeah, a peltier would be certain overkill in a carpc...lol
                          You'd need a second OPUS 320 just for the cooling system!

                          I've been careful in designing my setup...the pump and the two 'case' fans are powered from a distribution terminal, not the PSU...as is the CCFL lighting. I plan on controlling all of this with a Fusion.
                          However, as an overall power consumption standpoint, I'd not be any good at going to the drive-in theater!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            "First there is a small error at the beginning. You mention it was freezing outside at 32c and that the computer was at 22c and you were wondering why it was 10 degrees cooler. The answer is that 0c is freezing, so it was actually 22c hotter than ambient."

                            Kudos profozone! Thanks for answering my question. I'll have to go over that paragraph once more.

                            "Second, I don't totally understand the install. You say that the plate you made acts as an air vent, but then you cover it with the airbag cover (or do you leave that off most of the time?). You also mention that it is vented elsewhere, but don't mention where. Also, isn't the fan on the passenger side of the door covered by the door when it shuts?"

                            Of course, the cover is removed when the pc is running. I put the cover on when I leave the vehicle.

                            Very sharp! I failed to indicate that
                            the 30mm fan is an exhaust fan after it was added yesterday.


                            "Also, isn't the fan on the passenger side of the door covered by the door when it shuts?"

                            Negative, there's a decent gap 1/4" wide by 29" long, for the fan to pull air with the door closed.


                            "Your install would not work for me, because I do not want to remove the airbag. Plus, I use my glove box and don't want to give up that space. Nor do I wish to mount the LCD on the passenger door."

                            The decision where you want to mount those items, is, of course, yours. Make sure you weld it in place, or hide it good.

                            "Don't get me wrong, this is a really cool install, it's just not for me, and the original question regarded whether or not I needed cooling and if so, did I just choose the wrong components or something, because I knew that other people had essentially double DIN computers in their dashboards and I was wondering how they kept them cool. I have limited space in the dash for fans."

                            I have not seen pictures of your build yet, so I can't address your dilemma. Yes, you would need some sort of cooling apparatus living in a hot environment. As a side note, you'd get more replies if you posted pictures of the install here.

                            "Also, I was under the impression that larger "home" monitors don't use 12V DC. I thought they were 17 VDC or something like that. Can you elaborate. Also, if it is that big, it is probably not sunlight readable, so do you get a lot of glare, because in my other car, I was thinking about using a normal monitor as well. You can get a lot larger size for a lot less money if you don't go with one of these tiny screens."

                            I don't have issues with the sun, or glare. My music play list is loaded before I leave the garage, then I turn off the monitor. Everything thereafter is controlled via remote control (play/pause/rewind/fwd/power off/phone dialing/hibernate/sleep... etc).

                            Powered back up, the music plays where it left off. The monitor is not needed in those situations.


                            Home monitors come in an array of input voltages. With proper research and development, any home LCD can be used in today's automobile, regardless of power input. Where there's a will, there's a way.

                            You're right, you can get more bang for your dollar by taking your time while window shopping, and choosing your parts wisely.
                            Check out my CARPC: Project Diamond Plate

                            Quick Reference:
                            CPU Electrical Specs
                            Power Supply Calculator

                            Video Connections for newbies
                            Temperature Converter
                            Voltage Calculator

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Thanks. That answers a lot of questions.

                              I'm too lazy to put pics up, but you can see the whole thing on my website at:
                              www.ozone1000.com

                              You have to go to Cars>Solara>CarPC.

                              Comment

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