Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Suggestions/Ideas/Comments on wiring e46

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Suggestions/Ideas/Comments on wiring e46

    Hi everybody,

    See (attached zip for higher resolution) my made up wiring scheme for my upcoming e46 BMW and my first car-PC. I'd like to hear any suggestions, problems, comments etc to this scheme. If its possible or not, if i've missed something etc.

    The Stock radio whould be removed is this a problem? I'd like to use RR frontend. "CardR" is a MultiCardReader and the both USB in the "visible"-Area are to attach a stick or hdd of friends, or Mouse/KB for maintainance etc.

    Thanks for any comments in advance

    - Kaiser

    Edit: Removed link to other Webspace and uploaded here instead
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Devices like the touchscreen may have issues staying connected if you use hibernation mode and have them connected through a USB hub.
    I'd run them directly to the motherboard if you can.

    That master switch is likely to be a beefy unit and look less than appealing.
    I'd plan on hiding the master switch to keep it out of view. You could also use a nicer-looking switch that controls a relay to shut off all your components.

    You're better off putting a switch on the IGN line going to the M1ATX to act as a valet switch for the PC. I don't believe the M1 will accommodate both control by the IGN line and a power switch.
    Also, you don't indicate the power control line going from the M1 to the motherboard. Without this, the M1 will not be able to power on the computer with the vehicle's ignition.

    Lastly, the M1 is pretty low-powered. You didn't specify what PC hardware you intend to use. Are you certain that the PC is within the output range of the M1ATX? If not, you might consider bumping up to a power supply capable of higher power output.
    Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
    How about the Wiki?



    Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.

    Comment


    • #3
      If M3-ATX is sufficient power supply for everything including your usb devices I think that is a great choise as it can be configured via serial com.

      Where will you place your PC? If you place it in the boot you will have to be carefull with your grounding.

      You also have to be careful with pc on button. Normal setup is that it connects to ground. If you draw the line all thru the car you might get nasty signals straight into the PC. This connector is made to be on the front of the PC caseing! Same with USB power, but not at all as sensitive and also depending on mobo.

      If you are planing on using the FM antenna built into the car you will have to make sure its diversity amp is powered to get proper signal.

      Your configuration is almost exactly like mine, so you might find my site interesting for all sorts of info.
      http://web.comhem.se/bengt-olof.swing/index.htm

      Cheers!
      My car installation mp3car thread "showing off project"

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by DarquePervert View Post
        Devices like the touchscreen may have issues staying connected if you use hibernation mode and have them connected through a USB hub.
        I'd run them directly to the motherboard if you can.
        Ok, ill have to test that before and otherwise run it driectly to the board. I've found that my MB has two connectors for USB on the board, makes 4 Ports plus the 2 at the back.

        That master switch is likely to be a beefy unit and look less than appealing.
        I'd plan on hiding the master switch to keep it out of view. You could also use a nicer-looking switch that controls a relay to shut off all your components.

        You're better off putting a switch on the IGN line going to the M1ATX to act as a valet switch for the PC. I don't believe the M1 will accommodate both control by the IGN line and a power switch.
        Also, you don't indicate the power control line going from the M1 to the motherboard. Without this, the M1 will not be able to power on the computer with the vehicle's ignition.
        Well, I should have named "visible" as "reachable" maybe ;-) Master switch should be in the glovebox maybe. I think the relay is a good solution as i do not have to run those thick wires to front and back. Master swith is only for comlpetely cutting of everything from the cars battery in cases theres a problem starting the car or for short parking moves etc. I missed to draw the pwr-switch from M1 to the MB but it will be there ;-)

        Lastly, the M1 is pretty low-powered. You didn't specify what PC hardware you intend to use. Are you certain that the PC is within the output range of the M1ATX? If not, you might consider bumping up to a power supply capable of higher power output.
        ATM I've a VIA VB7001G at home, and the M1 already so I'll try if it works.

        Do you think M1 is to low for this board?

        Originally posted by bes51659
        If M3-ATX is sufficient power supply for everything including your usb devices I think that is a great choise as it can be configured via serial com.
        Could be a good option if my M1 is to low

        Where will you place your PC? If you place it in the boot you will have to be carefull with your grounding.

        You also have to be careful with pc on button. Normal setup is that it connects to ground. If you draw the line all thru the car you might get nasty signals straight into the PC. This connector is made to be on the front of the PC caseing! Same with USB power, but not at all as sensitive and also depending on mobo.
        It will most likely be in the trunk as the battery is there. maybe under the passengers seat if theres enough space but trunk is prefered ATM. Maybe I Should use arelay for the pwr-on, too?

        If you are planing on using the FM antenna built into the car you will have to make sure its diversity amp is powered to get proper signal.
        Were is this amp located and how to power it? Are there commands for I-Bus to switch it on, or will i have to wire something directly to it?

        Your configuration is almost exactly like mine, so you might find my site interesting for all sorts of info.
        Yeah, I've seen this site some time before ;-). Its realy interesting. I've seen that you offer a Board Monitor and that you've build in your tft into one also. How much whould the BM be?


        Thangs again for commenting.

        Comment


        • #5
          Don't forget that you have a posetive terminal in your engine room as well.
          This way, you do not need to route up a new posetive up to Head Unit.

          As I can see it, you want to power on the AMP when you have activated the master switch, and have ignition.

          What if you want to listen to music when car is not running? or, would you ignore this. (Since it eats ups batteries fast).

          Allso, as some one else said.. The touchscreen USB should be connected directly to MB. (some hubs can cause problems).

          I would have drawn power from main line to the hubs, through a switch, instead of powersup.. Think you get a "cleaner" power this way to all applilcations connected to hubs. (Dunno how much the M1 can produce before it starts to go unstable.... I DO know that running a PSU at max load all the time is bad). (This way, you can hardware control activation of the hubs as well, with a relay from hub 1 to 2. This will even out the load on the CPU at boot time).

          How do you control the mute?
          Is it a "cutt off" signal to the AMP? or do you have an amp with mute functionality?

          and last..
          What program did you use to make that diagram?

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Crinos View Post
            Don't forget that you have a posetive terminal in your engine room as well.
            This way, you do not need to route up a new posetive up to Head Unit.
            This could be an option, but I thought powering the TFT from the PSU whould be a) more stable then the car 12V and b) the M! whould prevent the car battery to discharge below 11V. Or is Car 12V stable enough for the display?

            As I can see it, you want to power on the AMP when you have activated the master switch, and have ignition.

            What if you want to listen to music when car is not running? or, would you ignore this. (Since it eats ups batteries fast).
            Mh, good point I thougt maybe just to listen to musik if the Key is in and in Ignition-Position, without engine running. But I don't now yet how and when ignition line is powered in a BMW

            I would have drawn power from main line to the hubs, through a switch, instead of powersup.. Think you get a "cleaner" power this way to all applilcations connected to hubs. (Dunno how much the M1 can produce before it starts to go unstable.... I DO know that running a PSU at max load all the time is bad). (This way, you can hardware control activation of the hubs as well, with a relay from hub 1 to 2. This will even out the load on the CPU at boot time).
            Mh, but I'd have to get another 12V/5V DC converter then, or? Could you further explain the thing with the CPU-Load and the Hardware Activition of the Hubs? Just don't get it ATM^^

            How do you control the mute?
            Is it a "cutt off" signal to the AMP? or do you have an amp with mute functionality?
            I remember my little AMP has a mute in, but I'm not shure anymore ATM. I'll check this.

            What program did you use to make that diagram?
            MS Visio 2003

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by kaiser1401 View Post
              This could be an option, but I thought powering the TFT from the PSU whould be a) more stable then the car 12V and b) the M! whould prevent the car battery to discharge below 11V. Or is Car 12V stable enough for the display?
              The terminal in the engine bay is connected to posetive at battery, so you have the same stability, just 7m less of wiering

              Originally posted by kaiser1401 View Post
              Mh, good point I thougt maybe just to listen to musik if the Key is in and in Ignition-Position, without engine running. But I don't now yet how and when ignition line is powered in a BMW
              There is a notch there, that lets you run accesories, before you start the engine. So you could connect the amp signal to this one.. Don't know witch pin to connect to though.

              Originally posted by kaiser1401 View Post
              Mh, but I'd have to get another 12V/5V DC converter then, or? Could you further explain the thing with the CPU-Load and the Hardware Activition of the Hubs? Just don't get it ATM^^
              The thing I'm thinking about regarding CPU-Load is initsialization time. If you have 2 USB hubs, and aprox 8 USB devices that need initsialization...
              Starting 8 of them at the same time, puts på stress on the CPU (CPU-Load), then starting the USB devices in two stages, wich would even out the load.
              It looks out of your drawing, that there is no crucial devices needed at boot. So.. If you have, let's say at 20 seconds delay on hub 1 (GPS, BT and WLAN) and about 30 seconds delay on hub 2.. The "core" system would boot faster. Allowing you to listen to MP3s as soon as the core is online. (would have to wait for GPS and Radio though).

              Originally posted by kaiser1401 View Post
              I remember my little AMP has a mute in, but I'm not shure anymore ATM. I'll check this.
              Coool. If it have a mute function, the mute signal is probably constant while active.

              Originally posted by kaiser1401 View Post
              MS Visio 2003
              Ah... been playing around in a trial version of Visio, a couple of years ago... It's a nice program when you get the hang of it

              Comment


              • #8
                If you place PC in boot I would put a relay or a transistor at power-on button right next to PC.

                In my 325ti compact the diversity amp is located in the back door. RAD_ON is the wire going to the headunit you know have to control. More info at FM antenna

                I have seen posts where you can use RS232 signals to control remote input on power amp. I built my own unit. (link in signature) You camn also use fusionbrain.

                USB is eternal problem in car. And audio cables. Several ground points, long cables and noisy environment. And the fact that its not so easy to plug in and out when not working. Standard rules. If possible - one groundpoint. If not avoid groundloops. (I have cut the GND cable in some of my USB cables).

                And use high quality hubs. I have not found that using PC connection helps. In fact I have gone from having 8 devices on PC to just two + 2 hubs.

                Yes, I have one extra Bordmonitor. I am developing a little pcb on it to interface DVD properly so at the moment I will not sell it. But when done I will. And if someone wants to and can source the LCD panel I am happy to put that in too. As described here.



                No camera? ;-)
                My car installation mp3car thread "showing off project"

                Comment


                • #9
                  I've looked at my AMP specs. It's not a mute but a remote and the M1 has a remote switch for amps, too which is turned on several seconds after the PC. So this should work

                  Originally posted by bes51659 View Post
                  If you place PC in boot I would put a relay or a transistor at power-on button right next to PC.
                  I see this seems to be the best way. Will do it like this. For PWR-Switch and for Master.

                  In my 325ti compact the diversity amp is located in the back door. RAD_ON is the wire going to the headunit you know have to control. More info at FM antenna

                  I have seen posts where you can use RS232 signals to control remote input on power amp. I built my own unit. (link in signature) You camn also use fusionbrain.
                  Ok, thanks. I've found out that theres a pin for this at the standard BMW-radio-Plug as well, maybe I'll use that one as I planned to use its connectors to the stock speackers and the ignition line anyway (Is there a similar connector somewhere near the trunk? whould be cool. Else I planned to run the "high"-Audio cable (from AMP to speakers) to there as this should be less addicting to noise as the ones from pc to AMP i think)

                  Yes, I have one extra Bordmonitor. I am developing a little pcb on it to interface DVD properly so at the moment I will not sell it. But when done I will. And if someone wants to and can source the LCD panel I am happy to put that in too. As described here.
                  Ok, let me know when you're done I'm not shure ATM how to build my tft setup. I've a relativley large display (i remember 8") and therefore i don't know if its possible to get that display in the hole (even the one in the car not in the BM as in the car i whould have to place the dvd slim reachable, too). Have to measure this before anyway i think. If its going to fit in the flip down panel it'll have buttons only on one side as its to wide.

                  btw: the BM without the flipping down part whould be enough, as i already have this display part Or even the BM part without electrics as i could use it as moulding and mointing helb then.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I get bumps with the M1-ATX as the soundcard is not initialized until 30s or so after ignition. Maybe you have better luck!

                    Ok, thanks. I've found out that theres a pin for this at the standard BMW-radio-Plug as well, maybe I'll use that one as I planned to use its connectors to the stock speackers and the ignition line anyway (Is there a similar connector somewhere near the trunk? whould be cool. Else I planned to run the "high"-Audio cable (from AMP to speakers) to there as this should be less addicting to noise as the ones from pc to AMP i think)
                    Don't follow you now....

                    I think there is a 8' bezel to buy. I searched the forum but did not find it. Know its there somewhere....
                    My car installation mp3car thread "showing off project"

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      i make the 8" bezels. will work with the lilliput 889 8" only as far as I know.
                      Havent been able to test any other brands.

                      147.9 on TL @ 44hz so far.... it will do a 150
                      http://i569.photobucket.com/albums/s...bmw/carsig.jpg

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        you can eliminate a USB device if you use a SATA laptop slim dvd drive. I have one and it's great imho. Newegg has a 2-in-1 cable that has both power and data in 1 connector that plugs into the slim drives, so no flimsy IDE adapters to fall out.

                        If you want a mute...you can mute audio output in RR...why do you really need to do anything more?

                        I would use the Fusion Brain to control the amp turnon, plus it will give you even more control over things in the car.
                        Planning: [|||||||||-] 90%
                        Purchased: [|||||||||/] 99%
                        Installation: [|||||||||-] 90% (when is anyone's project ever REALLY done...)

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by bes51659 View Post
                          Don't follow you now....
                          Ok, I'll try again.

                          A planed to use the original BMW socket in the dash for connecting most of the wires to the car (mainly sound) and i found that theres a pin to activate the antenne and the stock amp (if there) if i didn't miss something. And there is a ignition (or Key in position one) as well to feed the m1 with an ignition line.

                          And of course id whould be cool if there whould be such a connector, or at least the wires somewhere in the trunk as the cables can be shorter then. Have to look in the trunk when i see the car next time i think. Also to check if theres a HK stock AMP or not.

                          My Display seems to be 7" 16:9 as i found yesterday. Looks pretty much like that one:
                          Toppie 7 inches but without a name on it. I took it aparty yesterday an there's barely a screw in it. its all hot glued

                          btw does anyone have (touch) drivers for this? i've lost my CD

                          Originally posted by 95seriesbmw
                          i make the 8" bezels.
                          looks nice. But i think i've to do something myself as its a 7" and (mainpoint) I want to have my slim DVD drive accesible at top or bottom of the screen if possible in any way.


                          Originally posted by sxtnitehawk
                          you can eliminate a USB device if you use a SATA laptop slim dvd drive. I have one and it's great imho. Newegg has a 2-in-1 cable that has both power and data in 1 connector that plugs into the slim drives, so no flimsy IDE adapters to fall out.
                          I'll try this if my current DVD with ide to usb will not work. thanks for the tip.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            looks nice. But i think i've to do something myself as its a 7" and (mainpoint) I want to have my slim DVD drive accesible at top or bottom of the screen if possible in any way.

                            even with a 7" it will be very hard to get it all to fit and look nice. good luck, post pix, id like to see how it turns out.
                            147.9 on TL @ 44hz so far.... it will do a 150
                            http://i569.photobucket.com/albums/s...bmw/carsig.jpg

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by 95seriesbmw View Post
                              even with a 7" it will be very hard to get it all to fit and look nice. good luck, post pix, id like to see how it turns out.
                              well i hope it'll work. not shure atm.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X