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4 Subwoofers for Home use

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  • 4 Subwoofers for Home use

    Hi,
    I currently have 4 10" subwoofers (400W RMS, 4Ohms) that was meant for my car and would like to use them for home audio equipment (I'm a bass freak, sorry :P).

    I currently don't have an amplifier to power the subs at the moment as I'm trying to work out what is the best solution for me. Ideally I would like to make full use of the subs power. But have been away from audio setups for a while.

    Is the best way to buy a 4 channel car amp (would 100W per channel be powerful enough?) and use a computer PSU to power it? I only want the subs for bass and rumble as they have low freq. output, mids and highs would be from other sound setup, so I could use a mono (single channel) amp.

    Are there any USB soundcards built for this purpose? That can power the subs, even 2 subs would be OK.

    Are there any amps that have a 12V DC jack like this one? Are they any good? they only have a laughable 40W RMS power but save quite a bit of wiring hassle.

    Sorry for so many questions.
    Thanks.

  • #2
    Since you're going to have to build a box (or boxes) for these speakers anyway, something like these should work for you:

    http://www.parts-express.com/wizards...AT&srchCat=505

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    • #3
      Wow, I've never seen dedicated sub amps before. But they are quite expensive compared to a mono amp with the same output power. Are there any other suggestions?

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      • #4
        Expensive? Really? On that page is an amp that will put out 540W RMS into 4 ohms for $250. Or 1024W RMS for $425. Can you find a car audio amp that can put out the same power into 4 ohms (not 2 or 1 ohm) for cheaper?

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        • #5
          They generally are cheaper, I've just looked for 2 minutes on ebay and found TL-1022 class D monoblock brand new for just under $200 (i'm in ).
          Specs are.
          Output Power (14.4v)
          1 x 4,000 watts Max (@ 1 ohm)
          1 x 1,500 watts RMS (@ 1 ohm THD+N < 2.5%)
          1 x 950 watts RMS (@ 2 ohm THD+N < 2%)
          1 x 600 watts RMS (@ 4 ohm THD+N < 1%)

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          • #6
            I had a whole nice response to this, and then bumped the wrong button.....

            Go with the home theater type sub amp- you will be saving your sanity, and a couple bucks in the long run.


            A computer power supply that is hefty enough to run a 400-500 watt amp will be over $100

            for referance, I have a 350 watt computer power supply that lists the 12v rail max at 25 amps. I have sent the power supply into protection mode at half volume using a pioneer deh-p3500(22watts rms/50max X 4 channels). It is simply just not worth the hassle
            My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
            "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


            next project? subaru brz
            carpc undecided

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            • #7
              If I get maybe a 400W PSU to power a monoblock, I guess that would be enough, since monoblocks don't require as much power? Because I've got my eye on an old alpine digital monoblock amp, and I've heard they are better then traditional style amps?

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              • #8
                Originally posted by wonga View Post
                If I get maybe a 400W PSU to power a monoblock, I guess that would be enough, since monoblocks don't require as much power? Because I've got my eye on an old alpine digital monoblock amp, and I've heard they are better then traditional style amps?

                please, please, please, don't do it. you are correct that a digital amp will take SLIGHTLY less power, but 400 watts is still 400 watts(there could be whole 'nother thread in the difference between the types of amps).

                remember-- most amps require 8, 4, or even 0 gauge wire from the battery to work properly. a computer power supply usually has 16 or 18 gauge wire coming out of it-- barely enough to get enough juice to a amp that size to let it turn on.


                apparently you didn't understand my post with the example of the car stereo-- according to the numbers on the power supply, and the fuse ratings on the hu, it is more than adequate to power a 200 watt stereo, but will not.

                for referance:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-009-_-Product
                it is a 1000 watt power supply, listed at $159-- the specs say that there are 2-12 volt rails that will take up to 30 amps. now, assuming that you can tie the rails together(it might not allow you to do this), it should give you 60 amps, but it only has 18 gauge wire coming out of it, so you will still need to figure out how to hack the power supply to allow for more current.

                using this power supply, which will still not be adequate for high loads like a amp, you will just barely be able to make a 400 watt amp work, but no more than 1/2 volume, and also must limit the low frequencies-- otherwise, on very low bass, the PS will also turn off-- even at 1/4 volume.

                the power supply alone is about half the cost of the home theater sub amps that kross listed. you will be saving yourself so much time, sanity, and money, you'll have to buy a couple of movies just for something do in the extra time you saved.
                My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
                "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


                next project? subaru brz
                carpc undecided

                Comment


                • #9
                  OK, thanks soundman, i'll take your advice, and try and get a home sub amp like the ones kross mentioned. But how do you explain all the tutorials, videos etc. with the people that have a car amp + PSU setup?

                  Also do brands matter, or are specs more important for sub amps?
                  Thanks for your help.

                  Edit:
                  I'm having trouble trying to source these sub amps. As the site above they all have an input voltage of 120VAC U.S. standard, where as I'm in the U.K using 240VAC, thus not knowing about these things before as I don't think they're quite popular here. Does anybody know of a U.K source to get these? I've looked on ebay, there are only a few, and aren't very powerful (about 150W) for around $50.

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                  • #10
                    using a computer power supply will work, and there are ways to make it work, it is just adding another piece of equipment to a build, that is not meant to be used that way-- and will seriously limit the output of the subs.


                    Deleted: rest of post was random misc. ramblings from the crazy corner...
                    My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
                    "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


                    next project? subaru brz
                    carpc undecided

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Ah I've just looked up and I think I now understand what you mean.

                      For e.g. if I run a 500W mono @ 2Ohm, to my subs. I'll need around 42A (500/12)worth of current towards the amp in order to provide it with maximum power. Otherwise it will be underpowered, so those videos are just really underpowered car subs that aren't giving it their best potential unless they invested in a PSU that provided them with sufficient current? I actually studied electronics haha, can't believe I didn't work it out. But wouldn't including a capacitor between psu and car amp accomodate for such low current draw?

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                      • #12
                        remember, a capacitor can discharge very fast, but takes a long time to recharge-- so a capacitor wired in parallel to the amp will help, but only for the first 'boom', maybe the second if there is adequate time for the cap to charge, but very likely, by the time the amp needs to send a signal to teh sub again, the capacitor will still be charging-- which will be a extra load on the power supply, and will hurt the amp because it is siphoning off part of the voltage to charge up.

                        there have been numerous debates in car audio forums on this-- and most car audio competitiors agree that caps only hurt a audio system. in spl comps, most gain loudness by removing their caps.
                        My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
                        "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


                        next project? subaru brz
                        carpc undecided

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Why do people argue that 12V @ 20A on rails of a PSU is sufficient enough to power a car amp? I would have thought car amps would never reach that much current draw, say 42A.

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                          • #14
                            Or you could get one of these
                            http://www.ugotadeal.com/product_inf...30&ref=froogle

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                            • #15
                              warning: rambling ahead!

                              Originally posted by soloxp View Post


                              Originally posted by wonga View Post
                              Why do people argue that 12V @ 20A on rails of a PSU is sufficient enough to power a car amp? I would have thought car amps would never reach that much current draw, say 42A.
                              it depends entirely on the amp-- a small 4 channel 'motorcyle' amps will not draw much more than 5-10 amps, mostly becuase they have a very small, cheap, components in the amplifier circuit.

                              higher quality amps use better components that sometimes take more juice becaue they have better frequency range, and better sound quality.

                              one of the best pieces of advise i have heard when looking at amps is to look at the fuse size-- cheap amps might say they have 1000 watt output, but only have a 20 amp fuse-if you do the math, it would never get even 500 watts with a fuse that size. they do this by doing things that would void the warranty for end users-- they could be using 24 volt system, a 18 volt rca line input, or test using one frequency.

                              higher quality amps will have much larger fuse sizes(fuse size will also be larger with larger amps), because the amp circuit is designed much better-- for both efficiency, and for sound quality.

                              for cheap, small projects, or just when your are screwing around with some ideas, computer power supplies work great. but when you need a dedicated power supply for something that you need to work, or need more than a 5-10 amps, they are a poor choice.

                              i currently have 2 projects that i use one in-- a large ipod speaker with a very small motorcycle amp-- powers with no problem- the whole project cost me about $10-- $3 for the box, and $5-6 for the amp...

                              i also have a bazooka bass tube (i think they are about 50 watts max) powered off one, for a basic home theater. it started as a temporary solution, and, sadly seems to be sticking around-- i got a box for a new one, just haven't followed through yet (2 jl audio 6-w3's, and a small sub amp )...so far, the bass tube cost me $5 for a bargin bin power supply-- the tube was free, i just had to hack a 20 pin molex to work with it.

                              for me, once i reach $30-50 cost on a speaker project, there is no reason anymore to try to do it cheaply, becuase then i will need to fix it later, and usually for double the cost of whatever i was trying to cheap out on.
                              My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
                              "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


                              next project? subaru brz
                              carpc undecided

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