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Asus AT3N7A I power hungry

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  • Asus AT3N7A I power hungry

    so i found the board i wanted with out breaking the bank...

    SUPER fast boot time is a really big plus

    the ability to overclock (overkill) everything is awesome

    the down side is this thing devours power when compared to the D945GCLF2.

    i got it up and going in no time but it was running like crap, worse than intels 945gc excuse-for-a-chipset. turns out ive only got 8.2 volts on the 12v rail !!! im surprised is even booted into xp (and it was still about 10 sec faster)

    i suspect the ac/dc converter being way under powered. ill stick everything ammeter tomorrow and pin point whatsup.

    ive seached the forum for this mb and found nothing... i feel defeated and sleepy

  • #2
    I am not sure what exactly your problem is. I am running this board right now with a 150watt power supply and it works great.
    2009 Volkswagon Tiguan
    Custom Built Carpc, Only way to go


    • #3
      what power supply(s) are you using? i ran that board for a little while, and had no problems with the power(my problems were with the integrated bluetooth not working, and the reason that i returned it)
      My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
      "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"

      next project? subaru brz
      carpc undecided


      • #4
        @ brianteel

        have you checked your voltages with speed fan?

        what power supply are you using?

        and do you know what drivers your running (off the top of your head, no big deal)

        @ soundman

        m2-atx is what im using. no drivers installed, just windows drivers

        i did find like two or three references in a few forums where people stated it needed 15a on the 12v rail but i think thats complete BS cause its the same set up as every other ion/atom combo

        5a*19v=90w ac/dc psu runs the entire board
        15a*12v=180w is the claimed requirement for just the +12v

        i havent checked the amps yet, but i did power it up in the truck (to rule out ac/dc converter) and its still +12v = 8.64, -12v = 1.2, and the -5 is off as well. here is the realy odd part - the bios shows exact same voltages as the D945GCLF2, its inside of windows that the volts report low

        i know the m2 is still good cause it was runnin the D945GCLF2 within specs.

        i will start a dialogue with asus tech folks this evening when i got more info and recent drivers installed, cause i know what they will say i need a 400w psu and the most recent drivers and bla bla bla


        • #5

          speedfan was wrong! YAY

          i used asus's monitoring utility (which sucks) and it said the same thing the bios said and all powers good. thats the first time ive ever had an issue with speedfan...

          now i gota tweak it some and shed some boot time blues caused from services and drivers

          i still havent stuck an ammeter to this board but i plan to tomorrow, that and OC it to get boot times as low as possible... ill post my results alongside the D945GCLF2, if anyone cares


          • #6
            does this board run with 400mhz memory only if the stick is 2gb or 4gb and is taking only 1 slot?
            if you use both slots, then its 333mhz?


            • #7
              I'm not really sure what you are asking... But I can tell you that using 2X1gb ram it was clocked at the rams stock clock of 800 (400x2). I got the same numbers using 1X1gb of the same ram. The only time the Mhz droped to 667 (333X2) was when I droped the timings down. Which leads me into the next topic of the board...

              I guess I for got about this thread, but I'll rap it up.

              Power wise it had the same current draw as intels 945/atom combo untill the ion was engaged:
              2.5 - 3 amps

              if you are looking into this board for a carpc I would have to say the zotac may be a better investment.

              realy nice bios and OC ability
              more rear usb than zotac atom/ion
              tons more audio outs than most itx
              about 7-10 sec bios time
              VGA + hdmi as a dual display

              Bad (with xp)
              Bluetooth is USE-LESS, buggy toshiba (i think) drivers and horrible audio interface. It's like they got bob out of the mail room to figure out the maze of adjusting volume settings. Shame on you Asus
              audio over hdmi won't work with via (rear output) enabled and bluetooth is very poor sounding
              CL for ram won't go below 5
              max RamV is 2.0
              very very picky about temps with the 40mm fan they provide

              bottom line is asus could have done better. They did good don't get me wrong, but unless u plan on using the VGA and hdmi with a pair of lilputs new hdmi or VGA screens then it's best to stear clear for a carpc and leave it for the htpc crowd, sorry.


              • #8
                ok thanks
                one site said that it only works @800 when there's only 1 stick. 667 when 2 sticks...


                • #9
                  i have this board as a small htpc for my bedroom. the bluetooth DOES suck, but i think its a poor quality chip more then it is the drivers. i havent noticed much about power draw since i dont run it on batteries, so i cant help much there.


                  • #10
                    Keep in min you can under/overclock the ram to suit your tastes

                    I ended up geting to something like 950 @ 2v @ cL 5 befor it wouldn't boot

                    As for Bluetooth drivers always froze my pc coming out of hibernation or sleep

                    but it will play a bunch of video games on the lowest settings!


                    • #11
                      any idea what could draw all the power from the battery?
                      the car stood still for couple of days and then i found out that the battery is dead. perhaps the bluetooth stays on?

                      i think the memory was [email protected], so that's atleast ok


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by vull View Post
                        any idea what could draw all the power from the battery?
                        the car stood still for couple of days and then i found out that the battery is dead. perhaps the bluetooth stays on?

                        i think the memory was [email protected], so that's atleast ok
                        what psu are you using? whats the condition of your battery? whats the reserve amps on the battery? there's more questions where that came from but here's some info i've amassed since installing a carpc:

                        minimal set up = m2-atx + DG945GCLF2 + Toshiba 80gb

                        -INTEL DG45GCLF-
                        s5 9mA (m2-atx hardoff = false)
                        s4 13mA
                        s3 120mA (usb=off; fans=off; wake from usb=false; hibernation countdown active)
                        s2 1.5 Amps (usb=off; fans=off; wake from usb=false; hibernation countdown active)
                        s1 1.7 Amps (usb=on; fans=on; wake from usb=true; hibernation countdown active)
                        s0 2.2 Amps (idle) (test cpu)

                        -ASUS AT3N7A-
                        s5 <.1
                        s4 <.1
                        s3 .2 amps
                        s2 .2 amps (probably because board only does s1 or s3)
                        s1 1.5 Amps
                        s0 2.2 Amps idle 2.6 @ 100%

                        note this does not include a screen
                        those are the only boards i have tried yet.

                        psu type and settings play a major role in power consumption
                        but the condition of your cars elec. system is another factor, too
                        leaving a screen connected to a power supply will drain it too.
                        each car has its own personality about when it wont crank: 11volts is considered "dead" battery but some cars may crank at that voltage. mine wont. i get 1 chance to crank my 4.7 dakota at 11.4 volts, then its dead, i need a jump and wait for the ecu to recalibrate ...


                        • #13
                          i've got the m2-atx, but i havent changed any of its jumper settings.
                          it draws power even if the pc is on hibernation? :s
                          gps stood lit during the hib(i took it off), so the usb ports are live?

                          i'll ask another question while i'm at it ... :P
                          what do i do with the amp power wire if the car only wants positive wire?
                          btw, i've put the hdd/led etc wires onto the motherboard, not psu


                          • #14
                            check the mp3car's store for the m2-atx. they have a link to the jumper settings and pins for the m2. i cant remember them right off hand but i think the stock setting leaves the power on to the 5v rail (usb) but i may be wrong.

                            and yes the m2 draws power just being connected to 12v+ and ground... not sure why

                            i have not researched this so i'm taking a guess but i dont think the mobo controls the 5v rail. i think its the psu... thats something worth googlin and i may do when i get more time... or if anybody here has info on the relationship (who tells who what to do) between the mobo and psu and sleep states ect.

                            "what do i do with the amp power wire if the car only wants positive wire?"

                            amp power wire on the m2? amp power wire for the external amp? or the cars ignition power wire? or power wire to the cars factory amp?


                            • #15
                              i set it to P1 now. was P0 in default. did that change anything?

                              but i dont think there are more than 1 amp power outputs on it... my factory wiring needed 12v to the power-antenna, which then switched on the factory amp. i was thinking of using it to turn on the 3rd party amp now, but it only needs + wire. i dont have to run the - wire to anywhere?

                              p.s. is it ok to take 12v from any of the 12volt adapter that phones and other stuff have? also from home pc hdd power? (just to use it outside the car)