Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Complete satnav/headunit replace few questions.

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Complete satnav/headunit replace few questions.

    Hi all im going to be doing a car computer install in my IS300 the plan is to replace the headunit and sat nav. This will allow me to run a twin 7" touchscreen setup in DualView using Nvidia card.


    I aim to use a Mini-ITX Atom 330, with a PCI riser combined with a Nvidia card (Dual VGA), picoPSU-160-XT (maby something else not sure yet), 4gb of ram, SSD 64gb, Slim slot dvd drive, in a Mini-ATX case with PCI slot. This will be going to 2x 7" touch screen lcd monitors probs something like Lilliput 629GL-70NP/C/T.

    I do have a couple of questions. Is there a mini amp that can replace the headunit amp? As i want to keep things as neat as i can. Idealy something that takes a 12v signal input (from mb power suply).

    Also i dont really plan on having a car movie center lol so im thinking of going for a a 2.1 setup with L and R and a sub. My main question is where would i take a sub line from using a standard mobo? As it only has a line in, line out and mic, and dont really have any more space for a large sound card. Maby the amp for the speakers might have a sub out? lol

    Anyhow here are some pics of the car












  • #2
    I do have another option..... Just realised i have a Old modded Intel M 740 (Dothan) cpu with modded p4c800-e dlx main board with a modded ct-479 adapter to allow me to run it on the p4 MB, Great thing is i have the hole pc and small case ready to go. all i need is power supply and monitors. The system runs at about 65 Watts not sure how that compairs to other Mini-ITX setups but it sounds good to me! Oh and the Gfx card is a X800XT PE so not a shy PCI card... granded its oldschool tech but for a car pc i dont think it needs to be that crazy?



    Also some very very old ie 2005 benchmarks of the system lol. From what i can tell it runs faster than any of the atoms and most P4's

    Comment


    • #3
      i didn't know they had adapters like that... cool!

      that mobo/cpu should work fine-- i run a pentium dual core(e5300) 775 socket processor. you just need a larger power supply-- like the m4, dsatx, or possibly m2.

      edit: forgot the other details:

      sub:
      the easiest way to connect a sub is to use a y-adapter, and connect to the standard audio out, or use the loop-through connections on the full range amp if available. then you just use the amps onboard crossovers.

      small amp:
      there have been a couple of members here that use the "motorcycle amps" from ebay(cheap and small), and claim that the sound is just as good, if not better then the factory audio amps..

      there is also the ones mentioned in nivanov's build thread-- some more expensive then others, and i'm not really sure that any solution is any better quality then any other solution..
      Last edited by soundman98; 07-14-2011, 10:10 PM.
      My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
      "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


      next project? subaru brz
      carpc undecided

      Comment


      • #4
        Yeah there is a whole load of us old overclockers that messed around with the dothans back in the day. Funny thing is its more or less the great grandfather to all the new I3/i5/i7's heh so its great to be able to use it. With no overclocking it requires just the heat sink but you can overclock them a load with the right motherboard and adapter mods.

        Great thanks for the info about the amps will look into that motorbike amp. Also sweet info about the psu as i was going to use one of those tiny ones. I Dont suppose a 12V 160W picoPSU-160-XT will work with the setup combined with the x800xtpe?

        Comment


        • #5
          As soundman mentioned, I've tried 3 amps - "AMP9-BASIC" from 41hz, "TDA7850 AMP kit" from ebay and "TDA7850 with Denoiser". All 3 could replace your head unit's amp as long as you don't expect them to blow out your windows - only standalone amps could do that for you. In my experience, though, they are plenty loud.

          AMP9-BASIC is arguably the most advanced. You'll need a 4x2 header and some headphone jacks to hook it up to your computer. It has a convenient set of jumpers for Mute, Standby and such. The chip gets pretty hot so you need a pretty big heatsink or a heatsink with a fan. It has no onboard noise suppression, so if you have ground loop problems or alternator noise coming through, you'll need to invest in a couple of ground loop isolators. It costs about $90 assembled and shipped. It's rarely in stock for the assembled version. If you buy a version thats not assembled, be ready to do a lot of soldering.

          TDA7850 AMP Kit - Cheapest of the 3, I picked it up for $15 shipped. It is TINY. It also has RCA ports, so setting up the output is pretty easy. However, the RCA ports point in the opposite directions from the chip, so, with the heatsink installed, vertical installation isn't possible in most setups. It has no noise suppression and Mute and Standby features are "stubbed out", so you can use them, but you'll need to add a resistor to your circuit.

          TDA7850 with Denoiser - It has 2 ground loop isolators (or something similar to that - part is called BA3121) and some additional circuitry. It is bigger than TDA7850 Kit but smaller than Amp9. Input is via an 8pin JST connector (connector with SHORT wires is provided). Mute and Standby features work by shorting the respective pin to Vin. I had ground loop problems with my build and this amp got rid of all the noise. Costs about $25 shipped.

          I think TDA7850 with Denoiser is the best bang for your buck. Amp9 is a close second, and is a very decent choice, but the price and availability become an issue. TDA7850 Amp kit is the cheapest, and also the least developed of the 3. It will do the job, but expect to do a lot more work to get rid of the amp thump and noise.

          Hope this helps!
          ------------------------------------------------------------
          My Project: All-in-one Double Din Unit

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Evarus View Post
            Great thanks for the info about the amps will look into that motorbike amp. Also sweet info about the psu as i was going to use one of those tiny ones. I Dont suppose a 12V 160W picoPSU-160-XT will work with the setup combined with the x800xtpe?
            i was hoping you got away from the picopsu's...

            do not use any picopsu's in-car.

            they do not have any regulation on the 12v line--they require a regulated 12v input, and they also do not have a startup/shutdown controller.


            but regardless,the picopsu's are a different version of the m1, and m3 power supplies, which are all made by minibox-- i want to say i remember reading something about someone using a m3 to power a beefier setup, though, it is very risky, and not something i am comfortable recommending.
            My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
            "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


            next project? subaru brz
            carpc undecided

            Comment


            • #7
              Will be going for the M4-ATX after doing more research i think the extra Watts wont be a bad thing. Seeing as the cpu adapter takes a little extra as well as having the AGP X800XT PE.

              AMP9-BASIC is a fantastic looking bit of kit and love the fact i can make it myself top of my list for sure.

              Oh also guys how do you lot do the Volume? do you use the PC volume or do you do it another way?

              Here is the pic of the case im using. Its quite small for a full size Motherboard. With a front mounted powersupply that will be removed as i finalise the build. Bit messy at the moment but will all be good once i got that old big psu out.

              Last edited by Evarus; 07-16-2011, 09:58 AM.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Evarus View Post
                Oh also guys how do you lot do the Volume? do you use the PC volume or do you do it another way?
                it depends on how picky you are.. many just use the windows volume control. but that method drives me nuts, windows is too slow for me(yes, i am one of the idiots with the loud system--i try to turn it down at stoplights, and using windows, it takes 15-20 seconds...). i use the cl-rlc preamp/volume control and it has been working great.(i also posted a review on it in the review section)

                Originally posted by Evarus View Post
                Here is the pic of the case im using. Its quite small for a full size Motherboard. With a front mounted powersupply that will be removed as i finalise the build. Bit messy at the moment but will all be good once i got that old big psu out.

                as long as it fits your install requirements.

                with that graphics card, you might want to consider adding a bar or something to the middle of the case to beter secure any add-on cards to prevent vibration.
                My OLD 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT:
                "The Project That Never Ended, until it did"


                next project? subaru brz
                carpc undecided

                Comment

                Working...
                X