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  • Casetronics Case & DC-DC PS

    Does anyone in this group have experience using the CaseTronic mini cases with a built in DC-DC powersupply? It seems the DC-DC convertor accepts 12 volts from a wall adapter. I was looking at them and was pretty excited about using one for my new carputer project untill I looked further into the powersupply specs... and realised that the input range isn't wide enough for automotive use.


    Thanks for your input,
    ~Jason

  • #2
    Originally posted by jasonsp6
    Does anyone in this group have experience using the CaseTronic mini cases with a built in DC-DC powersupply? It seems the DC-DC convertor accepts 12 volts from a wall adapter. I was looking at them and was pretty excited about using one for my new carputer project untill I looked further into the powersupply specs... and realised that the input range isn't wide enough for automotive use.


    Thanks for your input,
    ~Jason
    'Tis true. Mine did work in my vehicle for a while, but now the PSU will no longer accept a high voltage. It will run for at most about 90 seconds... which is enough time to post, boot into XP, and start winamp for about 15 seconds or so. From here you would have two choices: a) build a 12V regulator for input to the PSU, or b) build/buy a complete PSU replacement that has a wider input range.

    The case is nice (I have the C134), but I find it to be a little small. I won't go into details unless you want them. I will likely buy a C137 and move to that.
    "Buckethead's this guy that was raised in a chicken coop and without the bucket on his head, he's helpless"

    - "Really? Oh my god..."

    Comment


    • #3
      The PW-60 power supply that comes with the Casetronix 2699R has two
      limitations. First being the tight 12V input voltage tolerance (I think it is only 5%)
      The other issue is the maximum current on the 12Vout. It is spec'd at 1A
      which theoreticlly isn't enough to power most harddrives. I have had
      no issues powering my 120GB IBM drive however if I try to power a cdrom
      also the 12V supply will sag and the hard drive/cdrom will stop spinning.

      My solution for tight 12V Input tolerance not suitable connected to car battery 12 - 14.5V.
      First I tried using a low dropout linear 12V regulator however this proved to be a problem
      when the car was off (12V- 1.2V dropout =10.8V out). I then decided to use four
      TI PT5071 switching regulators in parallel. The beauty of the PT5071 is that they are boost/buck
      with an input voltage range of 8V to 20V and a constant output of 12V. I used four
      5071's in parallel (with a shottkey diode on each of the outputs) becuase the max rated
      current output is 1.5A and I calculated that I would need about 5A max. The regulators
      are rated at 84% efficency which isn't bad. The other nice thing about this setup is that the
      engine can be started without resetting the computer since the regulators can tolerate an
      input as low as 8V.

      To resolve the current limitation (1A max) of the PW60 12V rail I used a USB2.0 external
      enclosure for my DVD-ROM. I removed the AC power supply that came with it and made
      my own DC-DC supply using one PT5071 for 12V rail and one PT6212 for 5V rail. This keeps
      my 12V current draw within spec and now my entire system is not dependant on a tight
      12V input tolerance.
      My Celica Carputer Install

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by EBJUSTIN
        The PW-60 power supply that comes with the Casetronix 2699R has two
        limitations. First being the tight 12V input voltage tolerance (I think it is only 5%)
        The other issue is the maximum current on the 12Vout. It is spec'd at 1A
        which theoreticlly isn't enough to power most harddrives. I have had
        no issues powering my 120GB IBM drive however if I try to power a cdrom
        also the 12V supply will sag and the hard drive/cdrom will stop spinning.

        My solution for tight 12V Input tolerance not suitable connected to car battery 12 - 14.5V.
        First I tried using a low dropout linear 12V regulator however this proved to be a problem
        when the car was off (12V- 1.2V dropout =10.8V out). I then decided to use four
        TI PT5071 switching regulators in parallel. The beauty of the PT5071 is that they are boost/buck
        with an input voltage range of 8V to 20V and a constant output of 12V. I used four
        5071's in parallel (with a shottkey diode on each of the outputs) becuase the max rated
        current output is 1.5A and I calculated that I would need about 5A max. The regulators
        are rated at 84% efficency which isn't bad. The other nice thing about this setup is that the
        engine can be started without resetting the computer since the regulators can tolerate an
        input as low as 8V.

        To resolve the current limitation (1A max) of the PW60 12V rail I used a USB2.0 external
        enclosure for my DVD-ROM. I removed the AC power supply that came with it and made
        my own DC-DC supply using one PT5071 for 12V rail and one PT6212 for 5V rail. This keeps
        my 12V current draw within spec and now my entire system is not dependant on a tight
        12V input tolerance.
        Good call on the switching regulators. I would like to know about the schottkey diodes you used. It'd have to be a low drop diode (0.4V probably) and I was wondering what manufacturer (and part #) of diode you used for this setup you have (so I can order a few). I'm sure others would like to know as well.
        "Buckethead's this guy that was raised in a chicken coop and without the bucket on his head, he's helpless"

        - "Really? Oh my god..."

        Comment


        • #5
          EBJUSTIN

          Please let us know your setup, a possible diagram would be awesome. Also part#'s If this 12v regulator works that would be awesome, also whatkinda heat do you get?

          Comment


          • #6
            I have just got myself a c134 and would love to know how to make a 12v power supply ........ please give schematics and other stuff
            ALIBABA - I30 99
            Nemiah M10000, C134
            DVD, 40Gig, 256MB DDR
            GPS, OBD 2, Reverse Cam
            Mute on stereo w I300 car kit
            Liliput 7in w usb touch screen
            Direct connect with BOSE-CD changer

            Comment


            • #7
              yeah, post up!!

              Mase Casetronics DC-DC PSU says "12v/4.5A" input, so I guess that is the MAX.. What 12v regulator do I need to build to yield that (so I have all the power I can get) ??????

              Why did you guys get the C-134?? That's a ripoff... My 2699 cost $70 and my M10000 (Nehemiah mind you) cost $161. The C-134 costs like $300 or something.. ouch! And all you get is a smaller case and 5watts more power.. *shrug*

              Comment


              • #8
                It cost me 380 which includes

                1) nemiah M10000
                2) 256 mb ram
                3) power supply with brick
                4) all assembeled including shipping

                I plan to put it in my i30 console ( replacing the 1 din size extra drawer).

                sq_geek, you spent 230 w/o memory so say 65 to 70 bucks for the 256mb and the rest for assembly, cd rom interface, small size and shipping is not very much ?????
                ALIBABA - I30 99
                Nemiah M10000, C134
                DVD, 40Gig, 256MB DDR
                GPS, OBD 2, Reverse Cam
                Mute on stereo w I300 car kit
                Liliput 7in w usb touch screen
                Direct connect with BOSE-CD changer

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by sq_geek
                  yeah, post up!!

                  Mase Casetronics DC-DC PSU says "12v/4.5A" input, so I guess that is the MAX.. What 12v regulator do I need to build to yield that (so I have all the power I can get) ??????

                  Why did you guys get the C-134?? That's a ripoff... My 2699 cost $70 and my M10000 (Nehemiah mind you) cost $161. The C-134 costs like $300 or something.. ouch! And all you get is a smaller case and 5watts more power.. *shrug*
                  <offtopic>
                  If you don't already get the smaller is better thing, then I'm not going to try to explain it. I would agree that the C134 is pretty expensive (and a bit too small), but it has no problems other than that. I've heard about problems with grounding in other cases. The only complaint I have about the thing is that it's so packed w/ a 40GB HDD and slimline DVD/CD-RW that wire routing is a pain. It tends to get wires next to the fans easily and make a whirring noise that is totally unacceptable. This is why as soon as the Lippert Pentium M board comes out, I'm getting the C137.
                  </offtopic>

                  As for the PSU/regulator thing, the schematic should not be that hard to come up with. From EBJUSTIN's description, it sounds like 4 reference designs of the PT5071 with 4 low drop diodes all wired together at the end like so (forgive my text art)
                  Code:
                         +-----| PT5071 Ref |----|>|---+
                         |                             |
                         +-----| PT5071 Ref |----|>|---+
                    +V --+                             +---- ~12 V @ 6 A
                         +-----| PT5071 Ref |----|>|---+
                         |                             |
                         +-----| PT5071 Ref |----|>|---+
                  Notice that the output won't exactly be 12 V @ 6 A. It will be a little less than that.
                  EBJUSTIN: correct me if I'm wrong.

                  HTH Everyone.
                  "Buckethead's this guy that was raised in a chicken coop and without the bucket on his head, he's helpless"

                  - "Really? Oh my god..."

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I used MBR1645 schottkey diodes http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/MB/MBR1645.pdf
                    I'm seeing ~.25 to .3V dropout voltge (regulator output is 11.78V after a diodes, PW60 does not complain about this). You can adjust the output voltage via the Vadj pin if the output voltage is too low. I'll draw a diagram when I have more time. The PT5071 datasheet is at:
                    http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/produc...tNumber=PT5071

                    I placed the regulators in a rectangular housing ~5x2x2in (from Radio Shack). I put a fan on each end to create a mini windtunnel for cooling. Unfortunately it shounds like...uhhh...well it sounds like a windtunne. So I unpowered one of the fans and it is working fine.
                    My Celica Carputer Install

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      skassama, I paid $326, which includes:

                      1) Nehemiah M1000
                      2) Casetronics 2699R w/55w PSU brick
                      3) 512MB PC2100 Corsair Memory
                      4) I assembled myself in 5 minutes - 4 screws, and snap the DIMM in place

                      My 2699-R came with a CD-rom interface, too, although I will not be using it, as I will be fiberglassing a custom console to house my LCD and slot-load DVD-rom.

                      The $54 savings will buy me my slot-load DVD-rom..





                      shadowlessman, will 12v @ 6a hurt my 12v/4.5A PSU? I could use 3 PT5071/diodes instead to lower to 4.5A, would that be safer or would I limit my power draw then?

                      So it looks like you wire all 4 PT5071s in parallel, right? Which pins do I use? It looks like there's 3 input, 3 ground, and 4 output (1 adjustable)?? Damn these are like $20 each!! ouch!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        true and a very big box.....which will not fit in a car 1 din

                        :-)

                        yes installing a board is not a big deal but having it tested before it has been shipped out priceless

                        and you have not added shipping charges....
                        ALIBABA - I30 99
                        Nemiah M10000, C134
                        DVD, 40Gig, 256MB DDR
                        GPS, OBD 2, Reverse Cam
                        Mute on stereo w I300 car kit
                        Liliput 7in w usb touch screen
                        Direct connect with BOSE-CD changer

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by sq_geek
                          skassama, I paid $326, which includes:

                          1) Nehemiah M1000
                          2) Casetronics 2699R w/55w PSU brick
                          3) 512MB PC2100 Corsair Memory
                          4) I assembled myself in 5 minutes - 4 screws, and snap the DIMM in place

                          My 2699-R came with a CD-rom interface, too, although I will not be using it, as I will be fiberglassing a custom console to house my LCD and slot-load DVD-rom.

                          The $54 savings will buy me my slot-load DVD-rom..





                          shadowlessman, will 12v @ 6a hurt my 12v/4.5A PSU? I could use 3 PT5071/diodes instead to lower to 4.5A, would that be safer or would I limit my power draw then?

                          So it looks like you wire all 4 PT5071s in parallel, right? Which pins do I use? It looks like there's 3 input, 3 ground, and 4 output (1 adjustable)?? Damn these are like $20 each!! ouch!
                          No way. Your PSU will only draw the amount of current it needs (unless you have a short or something ). It's always good to load test these kind of things once you build them too. The datasheet has the reference circuits and tells you pretty much exactly how to use them. Make sure you get the good diodes that EBJUSTIN mentioned since they are low voltage drop. That will help. I could draw a schematic, but I'm kind of busy at the moment to do something like that. (I only have enough time to post in forums )

                          Back to the case thing, I just don't think that 2699R is a good looking case... period. I think the Casetronic Travla series is a nice, slick design. Very tough too. I don't think I paid more than you did, but I got less (but low profile) memory.
                          "Buckethead's this guy that was raised in a chicken coop and without the bucket on his head, he's helpless"

                          - "Really? Oh my god..."

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Ok, cool.. Any idea where to get these for less than $20 a piece? That's pretty steep.. I thought I recalled some other people using a semiconductor (just 1 for like $20) which did this (and some diodes of course). That is far cheaper and simpler, or so I would think...

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Found this from another Car MP3 builder, his home made Power Supply seems to be similar to what EBJUSTIN is doing. It's been a looong time since I did anything like this (only college courses in EE) so I don't know about adding diodes to the output from this and how to design somethin like this. I would like to get re-familiarized with it as it seems I will need to know more to complete my CarPC project. All the schematics and info you guys are posting really helps out, thanks for that.

                              Anyway, here is the link to a similar Power Supply using the PT5071 (although he only uses one).
                              http://www.fortunecity.com/skyscrape...ware.html#psu2

                              Comment

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