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  • Car Wiring Overview

    Hi guys,
    I am trying to get all my wiring planned so I dont forget anything.
    I have tried to think long and hard about it and I have come up with the diagram attached.

    I am hoping you guys could offer some critique, criticism or pointers... whatever feedback would be welcome(other than about my lame artistic skills).
    I just hope I didn't forget anything.
    Thanks for your time.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    dont think your 15a fuse will cut it
    Nano ITX / 512 MB / 60 GB / Panasonic slot load / M1-ATX / Bu303 / Sound blaster 24 / PPi amps / rockford sub

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    • #3
      Looks pretty good but why are you using a hub for the DVD? Connect it directly to the board's USB 2.0 out... unless you need more ports for future upgrades. Also, as mentioned, you may need a bigger fuse.

      Also, ground your battery :P

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      • #4
        Are you using two USB hubs because of location?
        2007 Honda Fit Sport 1.5L SOHC-VTEC

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        • #5
          First off, thanks for the replies.
          Originally posted by SAScooby
          dont think your 15a fuse will cut it
          Everywhere I looked, I saw that people recommend a 15A fuse for a 150W Opus. What fuse should I use?

          Originally posted by Bobby Digital
          Looks pretty good but why are you using a hub for the DVD? Connect it directly to the board's USB 2.0 out... unless you need more ports for future upgrades. Also, as mentioned, you may need a bigger fuse.
          I am using a HUB for two reasons, in case I decide to hook my iPod up for file transfer or for hooking up other future devices. And, as binary.h4x said, because of location.... the hubs and DVD will be in the glove box, the computer will be in the trunk.
          Thanks for the replies guys.

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          • #6
            Instead of using the audio out on the iPod, why not put a firewire connection to your computer? That way you can treat it as a storage device and play music directly off it using your computer.

            Also, consider putting a switch on the accessory line so you can choose to not start the computer. I have that on mine and I find it handy when I'm just moving the car to get into my garage and other little stuff like that.

            Looks good! Great planning, it should help you save time (I know I would have saved a lot of time if I had bothered to plan this out. whoops)
            Chrysler 300 - Fabricating
            http://hallert.net/

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Chairboy
              Instead of using the audio out on the iPod, why not put a firewire connection to your computer? That way you can treat it as a storage device and play music directly off it using your computer.
              I thought about this issue, and I keep tossing it back and forth. I think thats a good reason to keep the usb hub there, or even get a firewire+usb combo hub.
              My thought right now is this:
              The ipod is currently connected to monster icarcharge which has a dock connector and gives power while supplying a digital audio out. That audio is currently connected to my radio, and I have gotten used to using the remote on the iPod to change songs.... So that is why I planned it this way. Then whatever frontend software I use will just have to integrate well for navigation.
              Of course my preference could change very quickly once this is installed and running which is why I thought it would be good to have a hub in the glovebox specifically for USB 2.0 devices or possibly a combo hub USB2.0+FIREWIRE400
              Originally posted by Chairboy
              Also, consider putting a switch on the accessory line so you can choose to not start the computer. I have that on mine and I find it handy when I'm just moving the car to get into my garage and other little stuff like that.
              That sounds like a good idea, Ill look into that. I also am thinking about how to 'gracefully' include a reset switch somewhere on the console so that I dont have to stop and restart the car if there is a lock up.
              Thanks for the reply.

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              • #8
                Looks good. Same basic idea as my setup, but your power supply is much neater. I use an inverter and an auxiliary battery for a UPS (and to keep the computer running when the car is parked). One advantage of this is that it allows me to use the carputer over VNC and filesharing without having to worry about it killing the main battery.

                Here's my block diagram for clarification.
                Attached Files

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                • #9
                  Am i right in thinking that your Aux battery is linked to your main in paralel?
                  And all you do is disconect the pos side of the battery between them isolating the 2.

                  In my experiance this can be bad for the Aux battery (especualy Gel ones) that are not desigend for that kind of use.

                  What you should be using is a Deep cycle battery (marine, camping).
                  These suckers are designd to be constantly drianed and charged withought damaging the electric plates inside.

                  Where as your gelly battery can only take ~ 1-2A at regulated 13v to charge a deepcycle battery can take around 18-20V @ 10-70A

                  Your average car alternator can kick out around 30-70A 13-18v depending on rpm. Pumping this through your Gell mattery is not good and you will degrade its performance considurably.

                  Just my thought
                  Tom

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                  • #10
                    5A on the 7" LCD? to big, won't do nothing
                    CarPC status: iPod, 3,456,217 songs so **** you

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Motoko
                      5A on the 7" LCD? to big, won't do nothing
                      At first I thought that I wouldn't even use a Fuse between the Opus and the Lilliput monitor but I had an extra 5A fuse. I figured that was too big, I think I read somewhere that 2A was what to use if wiring to the battery. Im going to wire it directly to the 12V of the Opus, so I may not use any fuse then.
                      Thanks for the replies.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by savante
                        At first I thought that I wouldn't even use a Fuse between the Opus and the Lilliput monitor but I had an extra 5A fuse. I figured that was too big, I think I read somewhere that 2A was what to use if wiring to the battery. Im going to wire it directly to the 12V of the Opus, so I may not use any fuse then.
                        Thanks for the replies.
                        Right, you really shouldn't need a fuse if your using the Opus outputs. They are already protected by the Opus itself.
                        2004 4runner

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by rando
                          Right, you really shouldn't need a fuse if your using the Opus outputs. They are already protected by the Opus itself.
                          That is exactly what I thought, because the Opus will regulate the 12V output better than the egg it comes with or whatever else... and being that there could be no spikes in voltage between the Opus and the LCD, I shouldn't need the overcurrent protection.
                          Thanks for confirming that for me.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by pioneer
                            Am i right in thinking that your Aux battery is linked to your main in paralel?
                            And all you do is disconect the pos side of the battery between them isolating the 2.

                            In my experiance this can be bad for the Aux battery (especualy Gel ones) that are not desigend for that kind of use.

                            What you should be using is a Deep cycle battery (marine, camping).
                            These suckers are designd to be constantly drianed and charged withought damaging the electric plates inside.

                            Where as your gelly battery can only take ~ 1-2A at regulated 13v to charge a deepcycle battery can take around 18-20V @ 10-70A

                            Your average car alternator can kick out around 30-70A 13-18v depending on rpm. Pumping this through your Gell mattery is not good and you will degrade its performance considurably.

                            Just my thought
                            Tom
                            Yep, I agree with you that my gel cell is taking some pretty serious trauma, being deep cycled and charged of the alternator. I got it for free though and it's been working pretty well since April. As soon as it gets cold it will be useless too. I would use a deep cycle, but I don't want to have to worry about spillage and weight concerns.

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                            • #15
                              Right, you really shouldn't need a fuse if your using the Opus outputs. They are already protected by the Opus itself.
                              That is exactly what I thought, because the Opus will regulate the 12V output better than the egg it comes with or whatever else... and being that there could be no spikes in voltage between the Opus and the LCD, I shouldn't need the overcurrent protection.
                              I would think you DO want that fuse in there to protect the Opus. What if your screen or the power line to the screen fails/shorts?
                              A 2 A. would be good, 1.5 A. would be better?
                              System:
                              Epia M1000 w/512MB PC2100, Xenarc 700TS, ATI 7500 PCI, OPUS 150 PSU, 2.5 40GB 5400 HDD, 802.11g PCI, Slim Slot DVDR,
                              Gyration RF Kybrd, OBDII adpt. + sftwr, XP pro, iGuidance/Royaltek GPS NAV, XMPCR, Kenwd KAC-8401 4 chnl amp, 10" pwd sub

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