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E46 BMW remote wire problem

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  • E46 BMW remote wire problem

    Hey all you e46 bimmer freaks and fanatics

    I currently have the remote (accessory) wire tapped right by the factory HK amplifier and going into my opus. It was working fine until I removed the factory head unit - it appears that the factory head unit needs to be attached in order for the remote wire at the amplifier to work!!!

    Where did you tap into a remote wire then? Help please! Cheers

  • #2

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    • #3
      if i remember correctly , the remote wire should be a white wire going into the factory amp. check the bundle of wires going into the amp. there should be 2 white wires, one of them should be the remote.
      2002 BMW E46 (99% done)
      Lilliput 7"
      P4 2.0
      80Gb
      DLink FM
      Routis 2004
      Opus 150W
      1200watts of PPI power
      2 - 12" solobaric
      MB Quartz
      IBUS - steering control
      USB 2.0 DVD player

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      • #4
        Yeah, your radio has a remote turn on wire that is designed to turn on your amplifier anytime the radio is turned on. If you remove the radio then that wire will not work because the radio can't turn on a wire if it's not in the car. If you hook up to an accessory wire at the radio or any ignition or accessory wire at the ignition harness you should be fine.

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        • #5
          if you connect a switch +12v line to the "remote on"/"amp on" wire, it will turn on... as i beleive someone stated, you can just use the ignition on wire from your radio and simply connect the two together

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          • #6
            Originally posted by christmaspie
            Yeah, your radio has a remote turn on wire that is designed to turn on your amplifier anytime the radio is turned on. If you remove the radio then that wire will not work because the radio can't turn on a wire if it's not in the car. If you hook up to an accessory wire at the radio or any ignition or accessory wire at the ignition harness you should be fine.
            Christmaspie: Thanks for the info. Upon further inspection, this is exactly correct. Since I'm ditching the stock head unit, the white remote wire at the factory amp will not work. So to get an ACC wire, I tapped the white w/purple wire at the wiring harness for the stock head unit and ran that wire to the trunk. Not so convenient, but it works!

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Jackboot
              Christmaspie: Thanks for the info. Upon further inspection, this is exactly correct. Since I'm ditching the stock head unit, the white remote wire at the factory amp will not work. So to get an ACC wire, I tapped the white w/purple wire at the wiring harness for the stock head unit and ran that wire to the trunk. Not so convenient, but it works!

              Jackboot,

              i installed a carpc with a friend in his E46 330i S/C'd... we removed the factory headunit at first and were "satisfied" with the results of going direct-in when using the factory amplifier. i did some wiring to have the factory amp turn on with the ignition and i tapped the left and right front inputs and back inputs and used a line level converter... but to be honest, we didn't like the sound quality after a while. the HK/factory amp has fixed gain so we couldn't get the right signal input. we ended up putting in MB Quart 5.25 components and a Cadence amplifier, line driver, and 30 band graphic EQ... i am not sure what your goal is, but if you plan to use the factory amp minus the headunit you will be disappointed. take care.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Urinemachine
                Jackboot,

                i installed a carpc with a friend in his E46 330i S/C'd... we removed the factory headunit at first and were "satisfied" with the results of going direct-in when using the factory amplifier. i did some wiring to have the factory amp turn on with the ignition and i tapped the left and right front inputs and back inputs and used a line level converter... but to be honest, we didn't like the sound quality after a while. the HK/factory amp has fixed gain so we couldn't get the right signal input. we ended up putting in MB Quart 5.25 components and a Cadence amplifier, line driver, and 30 band graphic EQ... i am not sure what your goal is, but if you plan to use the factory amp minus the headunit you will be disappointed. take care.
                Thanks for the info. I actually ditched the factory speakers too - I used MB Quart 6.5" comps up front and have 2 JBL amps in the spare tire well as well as an audiocontrol three.1 line driver / EQ. So far I'm happy with the sound. The factory HK amp is crap

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                • #9
                  jackboot. did you run the HK speakers with different amp other than the stock amp? I am curious to know how they sound with a better amp and Audigy control. I want to keep th eHK speakers but through in some Sony ES amps that I have.
                  My BMW 2004 330i

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                  • #10
                    jedi7001: For a time I did run the factory speakers with a JBL P80.4 amplifier. There was a *definite* improvement in sound quality. If you don't want to replace the stock speakers, you will be quite pleased with the improvement in sound quality that comes simply from replacing the stock amplifier. However, you will need some sort of a crossover setup to get the 3-way comps up front and the 2-way comps in the rear (as well as the "subs") to work off of a 2-channel amp...

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                    • #11
                      I was thinking that was the case. I was going to tackle what to do about all the damn speakers. I have a 4 channel amp that i was hoping to push each door with. This may be wishful thinking though. What suggestions do you have? Maybe a Crossover in each door and run the crossover to the amp as one channel? If you want to bump this to my thread, feel free. Thanks for your help Jackboot.

                      330i 2004 BMW
                      My BMW 2004 330i

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