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  • Headlight motor to raise screen

    I got a headlight motor out of a 86 toyota corolla sr5
    and am trying to make it control my screen
    problem is its not a simple apply 12v go up remove 12v go down operation
    as i thought it would be
    when i apply 12v to it it continues to cycle up then down in a loop
    there are 3 wires that appear to be control wires in the wire harness
    they are in turn connected to small arms that ride on the metal that turns within the motor (see pics 2 and 3) there are also on pin 1 and 3 "dead spots" where plastic is intead of the metal which leads me to believe 1 and 3 are the upper and lower positions of the motor but what then is the 3rd (#2) lead for?
    is anyone familiar with this type of motor and how i can control it do i need to apply ground or 12v to the controls and or relays/ resistance?
    im going to continue to play around with it but i thought this may elp others who would want to implement this in the future as well. i will post more pics when its complete

    sorry about the res of te pix it was from my camera phone
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  • #2
    Well I don't know much about what you are doing, but did you take into account that head lights more than likely use some type of remote/accesory turn on line? Basically they are always being fed 12v, but when you flip the switch that's what allows the 12v to pass through the circuit. I dunno just trying to throw something out there for you.
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    • #3
      i think i know what your saying but the headlights have thier own separate harness from this motor so the 3 wires do not feed the headlight itself in any way
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      • #4
        It's really hard to make anything out on the pic, but this is probably how it works.

        The wires you numbered 1, 2, and 3 are "sense" wires. Wire 1 and 3 have contacts for the position. MOST LIKELY, number 2 is connected to ground or positive (Depends on what the car is looking for), so that when Wire 1 or 3 hits the plastic, it loses the signal. The way to check is to use a continuity tester, to see if Wire 1 and 3 get contact at any point with Wire 2. I have a feeling it will, it is just a matter of when, when it is fully open or closed, or only while moving.

        Do the continuity test, and let us know.

        EDIT: Actually, first test for voltage on all the wires while you are powering the headlight (if you still have it attached) and/or the motor, just to make sure there isn't a voltage or ground already present on any of the lines while the motor is running.

        Michael

        Originally posted by lostreception
        I got a headlight motor out of a 86 toyota corolla sr5
        and am trying to make it control my screen
        problem is its not a simple apply 12v go up remove 12v go down operation
        as i thought it would be
        when i apply 12v to it it continues to cycle up then down in a loop
        there are 3 wires that appear to be control wires in the wire harness
        they are in turn connected to small arms that ride on the metal that turns within the motor (see pics 2 and 3) there are also on pin 1 and 3 "dead spots" where plastic is intead of the metal which leads me to believe 1 and 3 are the upper and lower positions of the motor but what then is the 3rd (#2) lead for?
        is anyone familiar with this type of motor and how i can control it do i need to apply ground or 12v to the controls and or relays/ resistance?
        im going to continue to play around with it but i thought this may elp others who would want to implement this in the future as well. i will post more pics when its complete

        sorry about the res of te pix it was from my camera phone
        ...I love the French language...especially to curse with...Nom de Dieu de putain de bordel de merde de saloperies de connards d'enculés de ta mère. You see, it's like wiping your *** with silk, I love it.

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        • #5
          so i did the continuity test and 1 and 3 never ring out to 2 which is not what i expected there is also no power nor ground on the diskus its isolated now im totaly lost i thought 1 and 2 or 1 and 3 would ring out but they didnt
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          • #6
            Originally posted by lostreception
            so i did the continuity test and 1 and 3 never ring out to 2 which is not what i expected there is also no power nor ground on the diskus its isolated now im totaly lost i thought 1 and 2 or 1 and 3 would ring out but they didnt

            HMMMMMM,

            Is it possible it is broken? Do 1 and 2 "ring out" with each other? Are you SURE 1 and 2, and 3 and 2 do not "ring out"?

            I can also suggest perhaps a resister check, to see if the resistance goes up or down depending on the location of the disc.

            Is it possible the Disc gets power through the headlight assembly, and not from the 3 wires.

            Running out of ideas, sorry.

            Michael
            ...I love the French language...especially to curse with...Nom de Dieu de putain de bordel de merde de saloperies de connards d'enculés de ta mère. You see, it's like wiping your *** with silk, I love it.

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            • #7
              also the motor seems to only spin one way i dont think it has to reverse the polarities
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              • #8
                ok so basically i would think that 1 and 3 would be like the center one (#2) in that one of the wires connected to the harness has continuity with the center channel but the outer guides seem like they would do the same instead the leads for those wires are linked to the little square plates behind the guides BUT unless i begin to bend the guides they dont come in contact with the squares
                its really odd
                also there are no other leads going into or out of the motor so its not sensed externally
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                • #9
                  ah ha i got it wired your right i took it apart further and it looks like there are resistors or caps maybe diode in line between the square and the guide . now i just need to figure out what it is and why imnot getting continuity it would have to be caps i think...
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                  • #10
                    Here's my guess. The polarity is being switched by the headlight switch, which is a double throw switch.

                    When it is switched "on", let's say that 1 is wired as the positive and 2 is wired as the negative. The motor spins until it hits the plastic spot on track 1. That's how it knows to stop.

                    When you switch the headlight switch to "off", 2 is wired as positive and 3 is wired as negative. The motor spins the opposite direction until it hits the plastic spot on track 3 and stops.

                    Open, shut, open, shut. This setup sounds like it eliminates the need for limiter switches by cutting the power when it hits the plastic spot. Unfortunately, hitting the plastic spot breaks the circuit, so they had to add a third wire into the equation the does exactly the same thing but in reverse. The polarity is probably controlled by the switch itself or a relay or something.

                    This feels like a Myst puzzle.
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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Bugbyte
                      Here's my guess. The polarity is being switched by the headlight switch, which is a double throw switch.

                      When it is switched "on", let's say that 1 is wired as the positive and 2 is wired as the negative. The motor spins until it hits the plastic spot on track 1. That's how it knows to stop.

                      When you switch the headlight switch to "off", 2 is wired as positive and 3 is wired as negative. The motor spins the opposite direction until it hits the plastic spot on track 3 and stops.

                      Open, shut, open, shut. This setup sounds like it eliminates the need for limiter switches by cutting the power when it hits the plastic spot. Unfortunately, hitting the plastic spot breaks the circuit, so they had to add a third wire into the equation the does exactly the same thing but in reverse. The polarity is probably controlled by the switch itself or a relay or something.

                      This feels like a Myst puzzle.
                      Except that I think he mentioned that these were seperate from the motor, I thought. If not, that is definitely possible. How are you getting the motor to move right now?

                      Michael
                      ...I love the French language...especially to curse with...Nom de Dieu de putain de bordel de merde de saloperies de connards d'enculés de ta mère. You see, it's like wiping your *** with silk, I love it.

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                      • #12
                        the motor has its own pos and neg lead so what ive done is wired the neg lead to the common of the three sense wires #2 and when i connect 1 it goes to the up position and then i connect 3 it goes down ....problem is im not sure if u can see but on the diskus wheel the black out spot for one area is greater than the other so sometimes it goes up and down and keeps on looping (quite annoying) it may be because i have a wall plug running the 12v off a transformer but i need to maybe dumb down the speed of operation can this be done without negatively affecting the motor if i could run it anywhere in the 5-8 volt range i think it would run great..
                        because the problem is now when it begins to spin it gains too much potential and passes by its "kill switch"

                        BTW thanks for all the help so far i hope this thread will help someone else out later on
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                        • #13
                          so if i ran the 12v dc motor it has at say 9v do you think in the long run id have problems or no
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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by lostreception
                            the motor has its own pos and neg lead so what ive done is wired the neg lead to the common of the three sense wires #2 and when i connect 1 it goes to the up position and then i connect 3 it goes down ....problem is im not sure if u can see but on the diskus wheel the black out spot for one area is greater than the other so sometimes it goes up and down and keeps on looping (quite annoying) it may be because i have a wall plug running the 12v off a transformer but i need to maybe dumb down the speed of operation can this be done without negatively affecting the motor if i could run it anywhere in the 5-8 volt range i think it would run great..
                            because the problem is now when it begins to spin it gains too much potential and passes by its "kill switch"

                            BTW thanks for all the help so far i hope this thread will help someone else out later on

                            Well, you can always just increase the size of the area with out metal, OR, you slow the motor down with a resistor. Make sure you have a resistor that can handle the amperage of the motor.

                            Use V(oltage)=I(current)*R(esistance)

                            So, to figure out what resistance you need, you need to devide both sides of the equal sign by I(current). So, the equation becomes (since the I cancels on the right side of the equal sign) to V/I=R (the measurements are whole, that is, Ohm, Amp, and Volt.)

                            Lets take it a little further, assuming a 6 amp motor (just a guess), 12volts/6amps=2 Ohms. So, you need a 2 ohm resistor, one capable of the proper amps.

                            Michael
                            ...I love the French language...especially to curse with...Nom de Dieu de putain de bordel de merde de saloperies de connards d'enculés de ta mère. You see, it's like wiping your *** with silk, I love it.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by lostreception
                              so if i ran the 12v dc motor it has at say 9v do you think in the long run id have problems or no
                              \Probably not. Most devices don't like over voltage. Motors are pretty stout, and don't mind a reduced voltage.

                              Michael
                              ...I love the French language...especially to curse with...Nom de Dieu de putain de bordel de merde de saloperies de connards d'enculés de ta mère. You see, it's like wiping your *** with silk, I love it.

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