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  • Watercooling Issues?

    I have been thinking about a watercooling solution for a carpc for some time now, but I need to have a concern I have checked out by the masses.

    Ok, so the rig in mind here will be P4 based, opus powered, and fitted in the boot of a saloon. The sealed boot is only going to get hotter and hotter, especially with 3 power amps in there too, so I plan to run the water pipes from the boot to a radiator mounted at the front of the engine bay. This is all great, past experience of watercooling tells me this should work very well when the car's moving. However, anyone used to driving in the UK will be used to the jams, and I know the radiator doesn't dissipate enough heat passively, it needs to have some air flow going through it otherwise I can expect overheating... ...So the obvious answer is to stick a nice big 120mm fan on the radiator to keep air moving through the rad in traffic jams. BUT.... when the jam clears, and i'm back cruising at 80mph, the airflow from the moving car will be enough to turn the fan blades.... a lot. This will then turn the fan in to a generator and send volts in to whatever it's plugged in to! not good!

    Is this something to work around, or is a 120mm not going to produce enough volts to worry about? I'm thinking of perhaps using a matrix orbital lcd screen which also can act as a fan controller, I'm not sure if it can handle any more volts than a mobo, but it will be cheaper to replace!!
    -------------------------
    MB870 / P4 2.4 / 512MB DDR / Pinoneer Slimline DVD-RW / 7200 SATA 120GB HD <- OPUS 150W
    Xenarc 700TS <- CNX-P1260

  • #2
    ^bump^
    -------------------------
    MB870 / P4 2.4 / 512MB DDR / Pinoneer Slimline DVD-RW / 7200 SATA 120GB HD <- OPUS 150W
    Xenarc 700TS <- CNX-P1260

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    • #3
      You might think about connecting the 120mm fan to the fan relay of the car, This way in jams when the fan for your car turns on, so will the one for the PC. It should work well, In jams when the car is hot it will run, when the car is going down the highway and temps are low enough it should turn off.


      Should work???
      2003 100th harley F-150
      PCChips C3 VIA/eden, M1 ATX smart car.
      Here is my project so far: My 100TH Harley-Puter
      Ride safe


      Buy my stuff: Stuff

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by McGreggor
        Ok, so the rig in mind here will be P4 based, opus powered, and fitted in the boot of a saloon. The sealed boot is only going to get hotter and hotter, especially with 3 power amps in there too, so I plan to run the water pipes from the boot to a radiator mounted at the front of the engine bay. This is all great, past experience of watercooling tells me this should work very well when the car's moving. However, anyone used to driving in the UK will be used to the jams, and I know the radiator doesn't dissipate enough heat passively, it needs to have some air flow going through it otherwise I can expect overheating... ...So the obvious answer is to stick a nice big 120mm fan on the radiator to keep air moving through the rad in traffic jams. BUT.... when the jam clears, and i'm back cruising at 80mph, the airflow from the moving car will be enough to turn the fan blades.... a lot. This will then turn the fan in to a generator and send volts in to whatever it's plugged in to! not good!

        Is this something to work around, or is a 120mm not going to produce enough volts to worry about? I'm thinking of perhaps using a matrix orbital lcd screen which also can act as a fan controller, I'm not sure if it can handle any more volts than a mobo, but it will be cheaper to replace!!
        First, I think your plan is flawed. The engine is likely going to generate enough heat to negate the cooling effects of the radiator. You'd be better served by having the radiator mounted inside with one or two fans on either side of the radiator pushing/pulling air through the radiator.

        Second, your plan is risky as all hell. Hit one pothole hard enough to knock a waterblock loose, and you've got burnt hardware. Worse yet, you knock a fitting loose causing water and/or coolant to spew all over the computer and your trunk (boot). Neither one of those scenarios sounds like a fun situation to deal with.

        Third, what spec P4 are you going to be running off your Opus? You do realize that the max load for the Opus is 150w. Granted, you can get around this by using multiple PSUs, but you never stated that in your plan.

        In general: Water cooling a PC in your car is a bad idea, IMHO.
        Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
        How about the Wiki?



        Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by BADDERICK
          You might think about connecting the 120mm fan to the fan relay of the car, This way in jams when the fan for your car turns on, so will the one for the PC. It should work well, In jams when the car is hot it will run, when the car is going down the highway and temps are low enough it should turn off.


          Should work???
          An idea certainly, however as there is no connection between the water temp of my engine, and the water temp of the PC, it may not turn it on when its needed. I suppose I could just connect it to the car's loom somewhere and run it constantly? If I align the blades in the right way, higher speeds would turn the fan and put some charge back in the batt too!
          -------------------------
          MB870 / P4 2.4 / 512MB DDR / Pinoneer Slimline DVD-RW / 7200 SATA 120GB HD <- OPUS 150W
          Xenarc 700TS <- CNX-P1260

          Comment


          • #6
            what about a diode?

            You could even install an automotive thermostat into the system
            2007 Honda Fit Sport 1.5L SOHC-VTEC

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            • #7
              most car fans, When the AC is on. The Car fan runs constantly. if it's that hot, and you're in your car.....isn't the ac going to be on? and if it is, so will the 120 MM fan. Cars with two fans...only one runs with the ac...Just turn your car on, Turn on your ac and check it out.


              Just thinking as I go here.
              2003 100th harley F-150
              PCChips C3 VIA/eden, M1 ATX smart car.
              Here is my project so far: My 100TH Harley-Puter
              Ride safe


              Buy my stuff: Stuff

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by DarquePervert
                First, I think your plan is flawed. The engine is likely going to generate enough heat to negate the cooling effects of the radiator.
                Possibly some heat could radiate from the engine to my radiator, but I think I have more than enough room to mount it to one side, or failing that use a heatshield.

                Originally posted by DarquePervert
                Second, your plan is risky as all hell. Hit one pothole hard enough to knock a waterblock loose, and you've got burnt hardware. Worse yet, you knock a fitting loose causing water and/or coolant to spew all over the computer and your trunk (boot). Neither one of those scenarios sounds like a fun situation to deal with.
                True, but like my home watercooled systems, I will build in a flow protection switch so 0 flow will trigger a system shutdown. Also, matrix orbital screens can monitor temps and also trigger shutdowns if things start overheating. Granted it may not react quick enough to a waterblock falling off completely, but I have build fairly durable cooling systems in the past. I don't like the idea of fluid inside the cabin so i was thinking of running the waterpips down the inside of a sideskirt.

                Originally posted by DarquePervert
                Third, what spec P4 are you going to be running off your Opus? You do realize that the max load for the Opus is 150w. Granted, you can get around this by using multiple PSUs, but you never stated that in your plan.
                P4 2.6 I believe is more or less the limit, so thats what I'm aiming for. Still sourcing all the parts.
                -------------------------
                MB870 / P4 2.4 / 512MB DDR / Pinoneer Slimline DVD-RW / 7200 SATA 120GB HD <- OPUS 150W
                Xenarc 700TS <- CNX-P1260

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by BADDERICK
                  most car fans, When the AC is on. The Car fan runs constantly. if it's that hot, and you're in your car.....isn't the ac going to be on? and if it is, so will the 120 MM fan. Cars with two fans...only one runs with the ac...Just turn your car on, Turn on your ac and check it out.


                  Just thinking as I go here.
                  AC isn't always on, you dont need it most of the time in rainy old England, plus my car drinks enough fuel already without ac on!
                  -------------------------
                  MB870 / P4 2.4 / 512MB DDR / Pinoneer Slimline DVD-RW / 7200 SATA 120GB HD <- OPUS 150W
                  Xenarc 700TS <- CNX-P1260

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I'm in Las Vegas, The AC is always on...LoL.
                    2003 100th harley F-150
                    PCChips C3 VIA/eden, M1 ATX smart car.
                    Here is my project so far: My 100TH Harley-Puter
                    Ride safe


                    Buy my stuff: Stuff

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      You could just rig a temp sensor and a relay to turn it on and off. simple enough.
                      2003 100th harley F-150
                      PCChips C3 VIA/eden, M1 ATX smart car.
                      Here is my project so far: My 100TH Harley-Puter
                      Ride safe


                      Buy my stuff: Stuff

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by binary.h4x
                        what about a diode?

                        You could even install an automotive thermostat into the system
                        The lowest temp automotive thermostats that I know of start at about 165 degrees F I think thats a bit to high.
                        2003 100th harley F-150
                        PCChips C3 VIA/eden, M1 ATX smart car.
                        Here is my project so far: My 100TH Harley-Puter
                        Ride safe


                        Buy my stuff: Stuff

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I don't think PC fans generate electricity when they are spinning by some other force, just like if you hook them up backwards (- to +, + to -), they don't spin backwards.
                          Tidder

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                          • #14
                            ^yeah just a little high ^
                            -------------------------
                            MB870 / P4 2.4 / 512MB DDR / Pinoneer Slimline DVD-RW / 7200 SATA 120GB HD <- OPUS 150W
                            Xenarc 700TS <- CNX-P1260

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by BADDERICK
                              The lowest temp automotive thermostats that I know of start at about 165 degrees F I think thats a bit to high.
                              Just put two in parallel to cut activation temp in half
                              2007 Honda Fit Sport 1.5L SOHC-VTEC

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