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  • Originally posted by shotgunefx
    The first sentence was "Thats my plan. I have the spot picked out and everything.." which was in response to me talking about a HUD.

    So I was pointing out what I thought would be issues.
    ah...i see. more when conciousness and i meet up with brain power and start thinking again
    Carputer Progress: Here we go again...

    THE GF THEME
    Genesis has speed
    Genesis has class
    Genesis sent money
    before your a__;)

    Join the fight against carputters. EMAIL ME!

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    • Ok, tried to take some screencaps. Couple caveats. The capture board ain't that great and my exeprience using video4linux probably doesn't help. It definitely looks better on the screen.

      I ended up hooking the nitemax to the input on my camcorder and then capturing from there. It's god damn cold here, so it was pretty much drive by.









      Part of my landlord's property is a tunnel that's about 200ft long and mostly pitch black even with the lights on. I'll see if I can swing by their tuesday and make a little video. Though a little worried about the rats.
      GE Cache Builder | [email protected] |Coolstuff :autospeed.com | bit-tech.net | Nitemax Ultra Pinouts

      Comment


      • I'm suprised no one mentioned the idea of modifying a webcam to IR. Easier than pie, and it works exceptionally well too.

        To do it, you need two things.

        1. Webcam
        2. Tiny piece of 35mm developed film that is entirely black. (Lets IR pass, but blocks visible light)

        You just take a webcam, take it apart, pop out the IR filter, pop the piece of film in with some glue on the edges, put her back together, and you're in business.

        With my cheapo webcam, my daytime running lights are almost as bright as my highbeams are when seen through the camera. As far as video quality goes, my only experience is with CMOS.. but it seems to work fine. I get a nice clean (free of noise) image at [email protected] which looks smooth to me, using a webcam that cost me 5$ on ebay. :P

        Comment


        • Originally posted by Fusion-One
          I'm suprised no one mentioned the idea of modifying a webcam to IR. Easier than pie, and it works exceptionally well too.

          To do it, you need two things.

          1. Webcam
          2. Tiny piece of 35mm developed film that is entirely black. (Lets IR pass, but blocks visible light)

          You just take a webcam, take it apart, pop out the IR filter, pop the piece of film in with some glue on the edges, put her back together, and you're in business.

          With my cheapo webcam, my daytime running lights are almost as bright as my highbeams are when seen through the camera. As far as video quality goes, my only experience is with CMOS.. but it seems to work fine. I get a nice clean (free of noise) image at [email protected] which looks smooth to me, using a webcam that cost me 5$ on ebay. :P
          There's a pretty big difference in picture quality between ccd and cmos in my experience. I have an ir cmos camera, it's going on the inside (into the passenger compartment ,for help identifying theives if I get hit). The one watching my parking lot 24/7 is a decent cmos camera. The quality just isn't as good picture wise.
          GE Cache Builder | [email protected] |Coolstuff :autospeed.com | bit-tech.net | Nitemax Ultra Pinouts

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          • Shotgun, I cant see any of the pics that u posted and also the leeland site is down(thats how i see it and it seems like no one else has the problem).

            About the IR LED's i got a bunch and i soldered them up but they are not very strong. I got normal 5mm ones from one of my friends and ran a 2.5v through each(my friend said its got to have between 1.8-2.5) but the light it creates is not much. its got the red glow in the back ground but when i compare it to my Sony Handycam's IR LED its way weaker. I could post a pic of my sony handycams LED. When i turn it on it gives out a bright red light which is way more than my IR LEDs and i can see everywhere with that thing on and there is only one of em in there. are there different types of IR LEDs?

            Also I noticed that infront of the Handycam's IR LED there is a lens kinda thing that helps the IR light to brighten up a wider field. could we do that with our IRs? Would it help much? anyone thought about it? I have attached 2types of headlight lenses that I think might help with installing the IRs outside the car. I went to the junk yard and they both sell for like 5 bucks.
            Attached Files

            Comment


            • About the IR LED's i got a bunch and i soldered them up but they are not very strong. I got normal 5mm ones from one of my friends and ran a 2.5v through each(my friend said its got to have between 1.8-2.5) but the light it creates is not much. its got the red glow in the back ground but when i compare it to my Sony Handycam's IR LED its way weaker. I could post a pic of my sony handycams LED. When i turn it on it gives out a bright red light which is way more than my IR LEDs and i can see everywhere with that thing on and there is only one of em in there. are there different types of IR LEDs?
              First off, LEDs are different than many electronic things. Most electronic things are fed a specific amount of voltage and they draw as much current as they need. LEDs are the opposite -- you feed them a specific amount of current and they use as much voltage as they need.

              If you take a power supply that provides 2.5 volts and attach it to an LED, there's no way to be sure the right amount of current is flowing through the LED. The LED has a very poor capability to limit the flow of current and you'll either give it too little or damage it with too much. You'll notice that LEDs always have a current-limiting resister in series with them to help regulate the flow of current at a particular supply voltage. If you hooked up a supply directly to the LED without any resistor to limit the current flowing, there's a good chance you damaged it.

              IR LEDs are different -- each is made to generate a specific wavelength of light. Most cameras do have an IR blocking filter because thier sensitivity extends beyond the visible spectrum into the IR wavelength. Even though this is true, they are still most sensitive to light that is close to the visible spectrum. You'll find that LEDs with a wavelength approaching 900nm will be barely visible to the human eye and wavelengths in the mid 900's are almost completely invisible. Having said all of that, you'll find that a 780nm wavelength LED will be brightly visible to the human eye and remarkably effective for cameras. At 800nm to 810nm the LEDs won't look brilliantly bright to the human eye, but they will illuminate a scene very well for the camera.

              (For comparison, the NiteMax LEDs are 870nm and give off a eerie dim glow.)

              Also, LEDs are available with various "half angles." This is the angle where the light intensity is half of what it is in the center. Unless you need an unusually tight beam or an extremely broad beam there's no reason to use a lens.

              Comment


              • NiteMax weatherproof grille mount CCD board enclosure --- $1.00 with PICS



                I have seen different wavelength specific IR illuminators and filters for flashlights, headlights, etc. The more invisible to the eye (longer wavelengths) the more expensive. The ones that are used by the military are in the mid-900nm range so the enemy doesn't see that eerier red glow coming at them. Mark, is the Nitemax capable of picking up all wavelengths of IR?

                Some filters:
                http://www.opticsplanet.net/us-night...snvbf-120.html


                Originally posted by GenesisFactor
                Any part ouside the cabin exposed to the elements are affected by the elements, and though it would work just fine, so does having the lens inside the cabin, as i found out yeterday, IR on or not. The IR illuminator part is what you want outside so it doesn't get him by the relfection, refraction, or angle of incidence (you engineers and physists know that term) in the glass Besides, i'd rather want to replace a $3 IR illuminator than a $80 CCD, circuit board, and lensincase something goes wrong. . But have fun, experimentation is key! All of us are having fun now.
                Couldn't agree with you more. I figured some kind of weatherproofing would be necessary, and like you said, it's all about the experimenting. So I was in the dollar store experimenting this morning, and found a magnetic paperclip holder. Ever have one of those moments where you just knew...

                The housing is all once piece and the bottom pops off. The lens used was one of the $10.00 lenses from Mark. It fits pretty snug in the existing hole with no modifications. I will run a bead of silicone on the inside to prevent any water getting in. I have cut a rough size piece of plexi that I will silicone on and trim. Drill a hole in the "bottom" which is actually the back for the red, black and yellow wires, and run it to the rest of the boards mounted somewhere in the car. Set focus by turning the board, since the lens will be "fixed" to the front, and seal it up. Once done, I'll spray it black.

                The plexi will prevent road dust and whatever else from getting on the surface of the lens, but it will take the hit instead, which will mean an occasional wipe off. I was also thinking about running a length of windshield washer hose right to the top of this mount and having a nozzle pointing down on the plexi. A splash of wiper fluid at 50mph would dissipate and dry right up...hmmmmm. It's a thought

                Staples paperclip holders:
                http://www.staples.com/webapp/wcs/st...plesZipCodeAdd
                Attached Files
                Working on - 2006 Cadillac Escalade with all the TOYS!

                COMPLETE! - 2002 Cadillac DTS - Summer 2008 - SOLD SUMMER 2010

                COMPLETE! - 1998 Cadillac Deville Concours - Summer 2007 - SOLD SUMMER 2008

                Comment


                • Originally posted by Fusion-One
                  I'm suprised no one mentioned the idea of modifying a webcam to IR. Easier than pie, and it works exceptionally well too.

                  To do it, you need two things.

                  1. Webcam
                  2. Tiny piece of 35mm developed film that is entirely black. (Lets IR pass, but blocks visible light)

                  You just take a webcam, take it apart, pop out the IR filter, pop the piece of film in with some glue on the edges, put her back together, and you're in business.

                  With my cheapo webcam, my daytime running lights are almost as bright as my highbeams are when seen through the camera. As far as video quality goes, my only experience is with CMOS.. but it seems to work fine. I get a nice clean (free of noise) image at [email protected] which looks smooth to me, using a webcam that cost me 5$ on ebay. :P

                  Thought process restored, thanks for waiting.

                  There's a HUGE difference between using a webcam and using the NiteMax..which also amounts to the probelsm with using a webcam
                  1) image lag. NiteMax- instant, webcam- up to a second delay. We're driving here...we know what a slipt second will do..
                  2) resolution- Nitemax- perfect image on a 47" projection TV (no pics, have 27" though), webcam...havne't gotten it on a projection yet, but i sincerely doubt it
                  3) refresh alg- Nitemax- you can see the refresh rate as a smooth line moving across the screen ONLY when outputting to a TV under any condition, webcam, choppy as hell under any moving conditions.
                  4) Lenses. Nitemax- swappable to fit application, webcam...yeah

                  Its just superior. Any and everyone who jumped on it got the equivalent deal of getting a new opus 150W for $10 shipped.

                  Shotgun, i get it now. I'll show you my proposed set up soon, its a nice day out... It will work very nicely, i just need to buy more supplies ($20 or so worth). After you guys get down and dirty with it, i'll see what i want to do and then do it... What would be nice is to get a switch for the LCD and two nitemax CCD's (one front, one rear) or more...and you get my drift . My biggest problem is my Shuttle's power supply went and that was my multimedia comptuer...have to swap out, but shuttles need their cases on to prevent meltdown

                  Quantum, that looks nice...real nice! You continue to impress me, man, that's freakin awesome how snug that is! I can't wait til my congitive goes back to atleast 80% of norm...

                  hte nozzle is a good idea, but why not just use alcohol/deforgger solution? That should get rid of everyting and evaporates just as quickly.

                  Mine is goign to be mounted just behind the rear view mirror (the far side where you can't see) with a decent lens. i'm running the cables across the edge fo the ceiling, down the pillars, and through the dash to the main board, which then will go to the flip up LCD right above the steering wheel, or, over the RPM guage since i could care less that the RPMs are in the thousands. I just need it readible and outside the vicinity of the airbag. I'm have two high output IR balsters in porbably a simial casing as the lens, but wiht the red clear plastice thing in the fog lights or, if i can, in the headlight housing (so the cops can't see it if it glows red). When i get the pics up...i'm just having way too much trouble with the computers these days...

                  ip...you DON'T want to see it glow. The less red, the better. a cop sees, a cop stops, a ticket you get. that's the forseeable chain of events.
                  Carputer Progress: Here we go again...

                  THE GF THEME
                  Genesis has speed
                  Genesis has class
                  Genesis sent money
                  before your a__;)

                  Join the fight against carputters. EMAIL ME!

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by Fusion-One
                    I'm suprised no one mentioned the idea of modifying a webcam to IR. Easier than pie, and it works exceptionally well too.

                    To do it, you need two things.

                    1. Webcam
                    2. Tiny piece of 35mm developed film that is entirely black. (Lets IR pass, but blocks visible light)

                    You just take a webcam, take it apart, pop out the IR filter, pop the piece of film in with some glue on the edges, put her back together, and you're in business.

                    With my cheapo webcam, my daytime running lights are almost as bright as my highbeams are when seen through the camera. As far as video quality goes, my only experience is with CMOS.. but it seems to work fine. I get a nice clean (free of noise) image at [email protected] which looks smooth to me, using a webcam that cost me 5$ on ebay. :P
                    Is there a way to do this with UV light/filtering too? I have blacklights installed & running all the time inside The Yacht. Wonder what I'd do to make it look right (couldn't possibly be as simple as the "piece of exposed film" trick could it?)

                    Comment


                    • there's a reason why IR is used for night vision and not UV- other than the aging radiation and high power demands. Stick with the time tested.
                      Carputer Progress: Here we go again...

                      THE GF THEME
                      Genesis has speed
                      Genesis has class
                      Genesis sent money
                      before your a__;)

                      Join the fight against carputters. EMAIL ME!

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by Genesisfactor
                        there's a reason why IR is used for night vision and not UV- other than the aging radiation and high power demands. Stick with the time tested.
                        Perhaps true. My question was for a specific purpose in a location where UV lighting already exists.

                        Comment


                        • Got the camera. Powered it up, decided to press a few buttons.

                          The result:
                          www.whipflash.com/vamr/cam.avi

                          Anyone know how to fix it? CS Mount 2.8mm f1.2 130 lens on the way
                          PowerVoice v1 | NaviVoice Source
                          GammaControl v2.4
                          SKINbedder v3

                          1995 Lexus SC300

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by 0l33l
                            Got the camera. Powered it up, decided to press a few buttons.

                            The result:
                            www.whipflash.com/vamr/cam.avi

                            Anyone know how to fix it? CS Mount 2.8mm f1.2 130 lens on the way
                            Tell me about the specifications of your power source... I'm wondering if you are using an AC adapter instead of a DC adapter.

                            Also, it'll need to be rated at 750mA or more. If your adapter is seriously underpowered you'll be feeding it power that's full of 60Hz ripple.

                            If it's broken I'll make arrangements to send a replacement!

                            Comment


                            • Mark, is the Nitemax capable of picking up all wavelengths of IR?
                              The answer is "yes" but it deserves more consideration. You can see that the sensitivity of the CCD drops off quickly beyond the visible spectrum. The trick is choosing a wavelength that's as close to the visible spectrum as you can get without being too visible for humans.

                              The chart below will help you predict how well this will work at any given wavelength...

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by NiteMax Mark
                                Tell me about the specifications of your power source... I'm wondering if you are using an AC adapter instead of a DC adapter.

                                Also, it'll need to be rated at 750mA or more. If your adapter is seriously underpowered you'll be feeding it power that's full of 60Hz ripple.

                                If it's broken I'll make arrangements to send a replacement!
                                AC to DC 9v
                                550mA

                                I guess that's the problem. The weird thing is that it worked when I first plugged it in. It just gave me a nice gray screen that turned black when I covered the CCD. Then I pressed a few buttons (gain and IR) and the thing happened as you saw in the video.

                                Can I power it from my computer's 12v rail?

                                [Edit]: Removed the adapter, turned nitemax on (screen flashed, then turned off), plugged the adapter back in, turned nitemax on. Its restored to the way I got it. It just displays a grey image. I'm guessing that this is because I have no lens. The image becomes darker if I cover the CCD up with my hand.
                                PowerVoice v1 | NaviVoice Source
                                GammaControl v2.4
                                SKINbedder v3

                                1995 Lexus SC300

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