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Speaker Popping Noise (delay circuit options?), Line Drivers to boost volume which 1?

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  • Speaker Popping Noise (delay circuit options?), Line Drivers to boost volume which 1?

    Yikes. I seem to have gotten all the different popping sounds I could. I hooked up the computer in the car just to see how it sounds, and the speakers pop when I turn on the pc, they make a smaller pop in that millisecond between songs, and they pop a bit louder on shutdown too. I guess I'm lucky at least they don't pop while the song plays.

    I know the M2-ATX supposedly controls the amp via the J6 connection, but could someone explain to me how this works? If the M2 can't delay the amps turn on, will I need something like this: ? Or is this a good cheap solution : ? From all the threads I've read, no one delay circuit seems to be the most popular??

    From what I've read it seems I need the amp to turn on after the sound card turns on, so thats like a 30 second delay for XP to start up. And then for the turn-off pop to go away, I need the amp to turn off after the pc shuts down.

    Anyways, even worse than the popping is that the sound is barely audible even with system volume and winamp volume all the way up. It seems a line driver is all I need to up the voltage before the signal gets to the amp, but which one is everyone using? Also found this one: ... Is that DavidNavone 34 dollar one any good? I'm sure a 2v rms bump should be enough? I tried searching local retailers websites tonight for line drivers but no one seems to carry any? Anyone know if stores like Best Buy/Circuit City carry line drivers, because I'd rather buy locally than wait a week to get it. Anyone know a local audio shop in Chicago that carries these things?

    The Set-up:

    Shuttle XPC with Sempron 2800+, 512 ram, 250gb hdd, 16x dvd burner
    Chaintech AV-710 sound card

  • #2
    What amplifier are you using?

    I have the PIE unit, and it works fine. It sits between my computer and my EQ. I used to use it for my XM unit.

    I doubt you'll find it locally. I didn't see it at either of the big stores, you'll probably be better off ordering online. (I got mine from that Logjam link, I think.)


    • #3
      Old-school Kenwood for the subs, "crappy" yet surprisingly reliable Autotek 4channel for the front and rear speakers. Autotek claims 100x4 rms but I don't believe that figure but I haven't had a chance to meter it to see what it really puts out. I'm thinking of getting the PIE too, theyre located in Indiana and Im in Chicago so shipping should be quick, I'm just worried Ill get it and it wont be enough of a boost in voltage and then I have to go and spend more money on another unit.


      • #4
        Well, the PIE puts out 3.4V, which should be enough for you, but if you think it's not, spend the extra on the N-645, which claims 10V (Most high-end HU I think put out around 5v.)


        • #5
          I just checked the site again and its right there in the pic, 3.4v max output, I dont know how I missed it the first time. Thanks


          • #6
            Originally posted by SuprchargdMazda
            From what I've read it seems I need the amp to turn on after the sound card turns on, so thats like a 30 second delay for XP to start up. And then for the turn-off pop to go away, I need the amp to turn off after the pc shuts down.
            How long after you start the PC do you hear the pop? That's (obviously) exactly how long you need the delay to be. I believe the M2-ATX waits maybe 5 seconds to turn the amp on? For my PC, the pop is very soon after the PC boots and way before Windows loads. For shutdown, I think you constructed your sentence backwards. You need the amp to turn off before the PC shuts down, as it's when the PC shuts off the sound card that it pops, right? I actually don't know how the M2 deals with this as I haven't hooked up the amp-turn on yet.

            I actually am using the same sound card as you.

            -First, you should have the latest drivers installed from HERE.

            -Second, consider using the black "Back Surr" jack just next to the SP-DIF jack - it runs off a higher quality DAC than the others and the difference is small but noticible. Since you're using four channels this might bug you that two of the them will sound better than the others, or maybe not - I opted to use that jack alone and split each channel.
            You'll have to play with the drivers. Setting it in "2ch high sampling rate" mode, "8ch 7.1" mode, and I think any config with the "Stereo Expander" option checked in advanced preferences, will enable the output of the "Back Surr" jack.
            Oh, also, make sure that not only is Winamp and the system volume up, but the WAV volume as well as the individual channel (front, left, surround, etc) are all the way up as well. You'll find these in your VIA audio control panel.

            -Lastly, on your sound card. There are a set of jumpers onboard it which route the signal through the card's own line driver. They include this for PC users who want to use headphones and need more volume amplification. Now, I'm not trying to claim that this will garner quality or output power near the 'real' alternatives you are exploring, but you should at least see what you're working with first. Also, I personally have tried this, but when I switch the jumpers I get NO SOUND at all. But the header on my sound card also appears to have a manufacturing defect (is soldered in tilted), so I don't know what's up with that. Let me know if that works for you.

            Oh, and I have no idea why you hear popping in between songs in Winamp. That is messed up.


            • #7
              Thx for the drivers link. Ill try out the jumper to see if it boosts volume tomorrow at all. Ordered the PIE today anyways, but if a simple jumper helps than why not do that. And yea I checked to make sure volume was all the way up including WAV.

              The pop occurs as the pc boots into windows and initializes the sound card i guess? The pop inbetween songs dissappeared today when I was testing some things out on the system, hopefully it will stay away.


              • #8
                You may also want to try SoundGate 4 Channel line driver. just on it. I just bought mine about three weeks ago and happy with it. Get it from Log jam electronics is about $99 cheaper than ($120).
                2001 BMW 330ci car PC
                Finished Project
                Watch what people do on your PC (car PC too)!


                • #9
                  "I mentioned
                  changing jumpers around earlier; this is a good start for actual mods. Look on the very upper left hand of the card, to the right of the screw, where you'll see 'JP3/JP3', and settings. Notice one says Line-Out, and the other Speaker-Out. Now, we don't want things getting amplified twice, do we? So, find JP3/4. Go over to the right about an inch, to the jumper bank labelled Front Audio. Now go down, and you'll see a chip marked U14.
                  Directly below this are the jumpers in question. Move both of them over one notch, so they short pins one and two. Congratulations, you just modded the card! Doesn't that feel good? Now, these results have not been verified, but I thought there was increased bass, for one, and an overall tightening of the sound with this tweak. YMMV."

                  Is that the jumper mod?


                  • #10
                    I believe it is, except in reverse. This person wanted to use the lower output of the card because the receiver they had it hooked up to was better capable of doing all the amplification. They wanted an unmolested signal from the card's DAC.