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  • full-size motherboard

    My motherboard finally died for good, and i'm considering either replacing it with all new hardware. Either another mini-itx motherboard, powersupply and 2.5" harddrive, or a full size motherboard, big powersupply and 3.5" harddrive. Has anyone tried this? I don't see anything but mini-itx and nano-itx in the mp3car store. What size powersupply would i need? 150watt looks like the biggest in the mp3car store. Also, my car alternator is just about maxed out, so i would upgrade that.

    any thoughts on full-size motherboards? I'm hoping it would be faster.
    Progress - VIA EPIA SP8000 | 120 Opus Power Supply & Case | 1GB Ram | 120GB 2.5" Hard Drive | Bluetooth 2.0 | GPRS/3G | Wifi | Road Runner/LSX 2.0 (waiting for a day skin for 3.0) | iGuidance 4.0 | Lilliput 7"

  • #2
    You're sorely mistaken on many counts.
    1) Many installs have been done using full-sized components.
    2) The highest-rated PSU in the mp3car store is 220w total output.
    3) Size has nothing to do with speed whatsoever.
    Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
    How about the Wiki?



    Under normal circumstances, a signature would go here.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by DarquePervert
      3) Size has nothing to do with speed whatsoever.

      i think he was trying to refer to the processor he can attach to it

      but even then, darque is right, mini-atx can take the same processors as a full size atx, with smaller dimensions, so what the point in going full size, unless you need 3-4 pci slots

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      • #4
        that's usually the only reason for a larger board is for more slots & stuff... or if you just happen to already have it, which to me, usally isn't reason enough....
        MY NEWEST INSTALL:modded infiniti fx with big screen

        first windows carpc install........my liquid cooled LVDS screen :D

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        • #5
          ouch... "sorely mistaken". well i guess i deserve it. It's been a while since i looked closely at MBs. When i bought the first one, the only mini-itx MBs were VIA motherboards, and they were slow, so i wanted to go w/ a bigger board (and consquently faster processor).

          but i see your point, no real benefit to a bigger board. How about harddrives? I'm thought that 3.5" harddrives ran faster than 2.5". any truth to that?
          Progress - VIA EPIA SP8000 | 120 Opus Power Supply & Case | 1GB Ram | 120GB 2.5" Hard Drive | Bluetooth 2.0 | GPRS/3G | Wifi | Road Runner/LSX 2.0 (waiting for a day skin for 3.0) | iGuidance 4.0 | Lilliput 7"

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          • #6
            you can get 2.5 that run at 7200rpm, just like any 3.5 out there

            so there isnt a real difference, only that 3.5s are a HELL of a lot cheaper than 2.5's

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            • #7
              If you're not satisfied with the speed of the VIA offerings you should be looking at Pentium M. The CPU's are cheap now, whoops VIA in performance, and still uses very little power.
              {Xenarc 700TSV} {Celeron M 1.3 ghz} {ASUS mATX mobo w/CT479} {MX440 128mb AGP} {1x512mb RAM} {3.5" Seagate 40gb (rated at 350 G's)} {M1-ATX}

              MY INSTALLATION LOG

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              • #8
                yeah... i have a pentium M in my work laptop and it is slow as balls. However, i heard that is because of the hard drive. I believe a slow hard drive can really slow down a computer. I really want a 7200rpm hard drive. Either way, looks like a non-via option is going to be a lot more, since the processor isn't built into the MB.
                Progress - VIA EPIA SP8000 | 120 Opus Power Supply & Case | 1GB Ram | 120GB 2.5" Hard Drive | Bluetooth 2.0 | GPRS/3G | Wifi | Road Runner/LSX 2.0 (waiting for a day skin for 3.0) | iGuidance 4.0 | Lilliput 7"

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by warnockm
                  Either way, looks like a non-via option is going to be a lot more, since the processor isn't built into the MB.
                  more as in price? how so? most higher end VIA mobos are around $200-$250

                  where u can get a mini-itx and processor of same speed for less than $200

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                  • #10
                    http://www.mp3car.com/store/product_...products_id=59 is what i have
                    Progress - VIA EPIA SP8000 | 120 Opus Power Supply & Case | 1GB Ram | 120GB 2.5" Hard Drive | Bluetooth 2.0 | GPRS/3G | Wifi | Road Runner/LSX 2.0 (waiting for a day skin for 3.0) | iGuidance 4.0 | Lilliput 7"

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                    • #11
                      well i just bought a microATC MB, 2ghz AMD proc and a gig of memory for 295 shipped. skip the memory and it was about $180 for the MB and proc. so that may be an option. look at newegg.com as well.
                      2003 Ford F-250 7.3L Diesel Crew Cab

                      Pictures of my truck, hobbies, and more HERE

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by warnockm
                        Do the Edens suck a lot more than the Nehmiahs?

                        Peace,

                        Rafster
                        Post # 3000

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by FC3S
                          you can get 2.5 that run at 7200rpm, just like any 3.5 out there

                          so there isnt a real difference, only that 3.5s are a HELL of a lot cheaper than 2.5's
                          there IS a slight difference between 2.5 and 3.5 hdd. and price is not the only difference... A few things to consider:
                          - size ( http://65.189.185.5/hitachi_40gb_1.jpg )
                          - cable connectivity ( http://65.189.185.5/notebook_to_ide_hdd_adapter.jpg )
                          - Shock/G operation. Notebook drives handle abuse better than desktop drives.
                          - Power considerations.

                          about cable connectivity:
                          you will need a 2.5 to ide converter to get it hooked up. But you could then connect an SATA to that 2.5-to-ide...this makes it a SATA ^_^ here's how I did it:
                          1) http://65.189.185.5/hitachi_40gb_w_adapter.jpg
                          2) http://65.189.185.5/ide_2_sata.jpg
                          3) http://65.189.185.5/hitachi_sata1.jpg bye bye fat ribbon.

                          About Shock/G operation:
                          I have seen some 3.5 drives which shut down if "extream" g forces are detected in order to protect the drive (bumps, hard acceleration/stops). 2.5 drives are more tolerant and I have yet to see this happen on a 2.5.
                          ~0okami.Digital

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                          • #14
                            What size power supplies are needed for the Pentium M and 4 motherboards for sale on here? Still fall in the 100watt area?
                            Progress - VIA EPIA SP8000 | 120 Opus Power Supply & Case | 1GB Ram | 120GB 2.5" Hard Drive | Bluetooth 2.0 | GPRS/3G | Wifi | Road Runner/LSX 2.0 (waiting for a day skin for 3.0) | iGuidance 4.0 | Lilliput 7"

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by 0okami
                              About Shock/G operation:
                              I have seen some 3.5 drives which shut down if "extream" g forces are detected in order to protect the drive (bumps, hard acceleration/stops). 2.5 drives are more tolerant and I have yet to see this happen on a 2.5.
                              i've kicked my pc case over multiple times with both of my 3.5" drives running, never had a single problem, never corrupted data or anything

                              i dont know what kinda driving you do, but, hopefully your car shocks can soften the landing better than my floor does

                              so, either way 2.5" or 3.5", as far as i know, theres no proof that one is better than the other in a car install

                              besides, numerous people on these forums use 3.5" drives for years without problem

                              but, to each their own, if you feel safer knowing that a 2.5" can TECHNICALLY take a stronger gforce drop, then by all means use it

                              but, HOW THE HECK will you get to 200+g's in your car without dying in the process?

                              (and yes, i know of those differences, i meant in the way they operate, not in how they connect :T)

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