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  • Selectable Power

    Hey guys. Here's something I'm working on for my project. Since I may want to show off the system while sitting in the driveway or something like that, instead of having the car sit there and run why not hook the computer up to a extension cord and plug it into the house? So I went and got a SPDT switch from Radio Shack. I'm going to cut the positive outputs from the inverter and the extension cord and hook them up to the switch and then have the switch output go to the power supply.

    Now comes the questions. The switch is rated at 6A at 125V AC, will this be able to handle the computer supply? Since there's only 3 single connectors on the switch, where do the negative and ground cables get routed? Can I just connect them straight up to each other? Also, the connectors on the switch are pretty small. How do I connect the fairly large power cables up to it? Are there little spade connector things I can get that clip on?

    Thanks for all the info!

    P.S. Make sure you read my post about LCD controllers. I'm still trying to work out a good way to hook up my LCD.

    ------------------
    AMD Duron 750, 128m RAM, 10gig WD, 12.1" TFT screen, SB Live! 5.1, custom plexiglass case
    TalonTemple.com
    AMD Duron 750, 128m RAM, 10gig WD, 12.1" TFT screen, SB Live! 5.1, custom plexiglass case
    TalonTemple.com

  • #2
    Why not just connect the computer straight to +12V with just a switch??

    A SPDT switch will not work. You need a DPDT switch.

    ------------------
    Aaron Cake
    London, Ontario, Canada

    Player: Cyrix 200, 32MB RAM, 10.2Gig Quantum HD, Onboard EtherNet/Sound/Video, Custom Lexan Case, Arise DC-DC, Win95 Kernal w/Custom Player
    Car: '86 Mazda RX-7 w/Basic Performance Upgrades
    Player: Pentium 166MMX, Amptron 598LMR MB w/onboard Sound, Video, LAN, 10.2 Gig Fujitsu Laptop HD, Arise 865 DC-DC Converter, Lexan Case, Custom Software w/Voice Interface, MS Access Based Playlists
    Car: 1986 Mazda RX-7 Turbo (highly modded), 1978 RX-7 Beater (Dead, parting out), 2001 Honda Insight
    "If one more body-kitted, cut-spring-lowered, farty-exhausted Civic revs on me at an intersection, I swear I'm going to get out of my car and cram their ridiculous double-decker aluminium wing firmly up their rump."

    Comment


    • #3
      What do mean, "connect it to 12 volts"? The only part of the computer that would see +12V would be one of the wires running from the power supply to the motherboard? How do I connect the two input wires to the power supply is what I'm asking.

      ------------------
      AMD Duron 750, 128m RAM, 10gig WD, 12.1" TFT screen, SB Live! 5.1, custom plexiglass case
      TalonTemple.com
      AMD Duron 750, 128m RAM, 10gig WD, 12.1" TFT screen, SB Live! 5.1, custom plexiglass case
      TalonTemple.com

      Comment


      • #4
        If it was my set up, here is what I would do -

        use a DPDT switch

        To PSU 12 V -| |- To Psu
        To Inverter -| |- To Inverter in
        To Car Bat -| |- To Car Bat
        + -

        Use a 10 Amp switch.... or whatever switch you want hooked to a dpdt relay, with the relay wired as shown above.

        Hope this diagram formats right
        Gizmo-
        Techonlogy on Wheels
        http://www.hjnetworks.com/car

        Comment


        • #5
          How about unplugging the power cord from the inverter, and plugging it into the extension cord?

          Comment


          • #6
            Not gonna happen. Power supply and inverter are going to be buried deep into the dash. The only part of this computer project that anyone will see is the screen, which will be folded up all stealth-like most of the time.

            ------------------
            AMD Duron 750, 128m RAM, 10gig WD, 12.1" TFT screen, SB Live! 5.1, custom plexiglass case
            TalonTemple.com
            AMD Duron 750, 128m RAM, 10gig WD, 12.1" TFT screen, SB Live! 5.1, custom plexiglass case
            TalonTemple.com

            Comment


            • #7
              You could always make a spot under the hood where you can switch it from the externtion cord to the inverter. Then it would be out of sight and still accessible.
              1983 BMW 733i
              Cyrix 166 32MB with MPXPLAY And no display. Player sits on the back seat with a keypad in front. Someday I'll mount this thing for good...
              *****************************
              Gathering parts for carplayer v2.0!

              Comment


              • #8
                <font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by dan0myte:
                What do mean, "connect it to 12 volts"? The only part of the computer that would see +12V would be one of the wires running from the power supply to the motherboard? How do I connect the two input wires to the power supply is what I'm asking.
                </font>
                Sorry. Even I don't remember what I was trying to say...

                ------------------
                Aaron Cake
                London, Ontario, Canada

                Player: Cyrix 200, 32MB RAM, 10.2Gig Quantum HD, Onboard EtherNet/Sound/Video, Custom Lexan Case, Arise DC-DC, Win95 Kernal w/Custom Player
                Car: '86 Mazda RX-7 w/Basic Performance Upgrades
                Player: Pentium 166MMX, Amptron 598LMR MB w/onboard Sound, Video, LAN, 10.2 Gig Fujitsu Laptop HD, Arise 865 DC-DC Converter, Lexan Case, Custom Software w/Voice Interface, MS Access Based Playlists
                Car: 1986 Mazda RX-7 Turbo (highly modded), 1978 RX-7 Beater (Dead, parting out), 2001 Honda Insight
                "If one more body-kitted, cut-spring-lowered, farty-exhausted Civic revs on me at an intersection, I swear I'm going to get out of my car and cram their ridiculous double-decker aluminium wing firmly up their rump."

                Comment


                • #9
                  Haha, nice one Falcon but I lack the energy to get out of the car, pop the hood and yank out plugs every time I wanna run the computer at home. I just want to lazily hit a switch and that's it.

                  ------------------
                  AMD Duron 750, 128m RAM, 10gig WD, 12.1" TFT screen, SB Live! 5.1, custom plexiglass case
                  TalonTemple.com
                  AMD Duron 750, 128m RAM, 10gig WD, 12.1" TFT screen, SB Live! 5.1, custom plexiglass case
                  TalonTemple.com

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hey dan0myte check your mail I sent you a schematic of a little relay circuit that should do the job for you.

                    Catlas

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I was planning on putting a waterproof outlet box with an AC Plug and ethernet jack behind the back bumper of my truck.
                      In the cab I'm gonna put a DPDT Switch to switch from the inverter to the house AC (With a light on my dash hooked to the house AC side so I don't drive off with it plugged in).
                      On the house side I was thinking of getting some quad shielded ethernet cable and running it with an AC line then snaking it into one of those retractable Air hose lines like I have on my compressor in my garage so that I can just pull it out, plug it in and unplug it and give it a tug so it retracts (back to where it is dry) when I want to leave. The quad shielded Ethernet cable is to keep the AC from dumping noise back into my network ( as a general rule you should never run AC and Cat 5 in parallel).

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        just out of curiosity i have a question. i have a dc-dc atx psu. do they make a switch with 2 sets of 28 wire inputs and one 28 wire output so i could have my dc and ac psu in the comp and just flip a switch when i want ac instead of dc?? thx guys
                        etrik

                        ------------------
                        "if everything is under control, you're not going fast enough!"
                        "if everything is under control, you're not going fast enough!"

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          etrik -

                          You're better off getting an AC power supply that puts out +12V with enough current to power your existing ATX DC-DC converter. I did this with my system. The only switches I know of that have 28 positions would be a huge rotary switch that would cost a lot of money. It'd be cheaper to get a 3 to 5 amp 12V power supply.
                          Jason Johnson
                          Yorba Linda, California
                          http://www.m2pc.com

                          MPC Phase IV - *** PENDING ***

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Just an update to this, I don't think I'm gonna go with the switch route. A DPDT relay sounds like it would a better option. Have it so that it's hooked to a 12v accessory source, then have power flow from the inverter when the car is turned on and flow from the external cord when the car is off. Nice and simple... plus less work for my lazy butt.

                            ------------------
                            AMD Duron 750, 128m RAM, 10gig WD, 12.1" TFT screen, SB Live! 5.1, custom plexiglass case
                            TalonTemple.com
                            AMD Duron 750, 128m RAM, 10gig WD, 12.1" TFT screen, SB Live! 5.1, custom plexiglass case
                            TalonTemple.com

                            Comment

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