Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Speaker Config

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Speaker Config

    Right, here's the deal.

    I want to use a Via Epia MII 12000 motheroard in my car computer along with 3 amps for the speakers. There will be one for the front speakers, one for the rear and one for the sub. I havn't bought this gear yet, as I am still writing my front-end, but anyway, my question is...

    How can I configure the speakers ports on the motherboard so I can have separate sliders for the Front, Raer, and Sub. I have been trying with my desktop computer, but if I configure it for 5.1, Line-In and Mic-in work the rears and centre/sub, which is fine, but Winamp doesn't output anything to these channels, just the front! That is the same with any stereo playback software I think.

    As mentioned, I don't want 5.1 channel sound, I just want the same sound to come from all the channels so I can fade them up and down when required.

    Has anyone used this method it there car PC projects?
    ViVE - Volkswagen In Van Entertainment:

    VoomPC 2, VIA C7 2GHz
    7" Lilliput
    120Gb Sata drive
    1GB RAM


    [||||||||||] 100% - Planning
    [||||||||||] 100% - Software coding
    [||||||||||] 100% - Built

    (Always tweaking!)

  • #2
    most people use something like the Alpine 701 processor to do what you're wanting to do.

    The issue with using the on board audio ports is that the voltage is too low out of the board. This means that your noise floor will be very low, meaning you will be more likely to pick up noise in your audio signal.

    Using an outboard processor or a better sound card (internal or external) usually means you will have higher output voltages which means better quality audio.
    Jan Bennett
    FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

    Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

    Comment


    • #3
      Apart from the Alpine, is there anything else I can use. I didn't really want to have a head unit, just my car PC and my amps.
      ViVE - Volkswagen In Van Entertainment:

      VoomPC 2, VIA C7 2GHz
      7" Lilliput
      120Gb Sata drive
      1GB RAM


      [||||||||||] 100% - Planning
      [||||||||||] 100% - Software coding
      [||||||||||] 100% - Built

      (Always tweaking!)

      Comment


      • #4
        The Alpine 701 is not a head unit, it's a processor. The face plate it only about an inch thick. There's no place to put CDs in.

        Other than the Alpine, you can go out of the onboard sound to an EQ of some kind. There's many 1/2 din EQs avaliable out there that will take lower voltage in and bump it to a higher voltage out.
        Jan Bennett
        FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

        Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by RedGTiVR6 View Post
          The Alpine 701 is not a head unit, it's a processor. The face plate it only about an inch thick. There's no place to put CDs in.

          Other than the Alpine, you can go out of the onboard sound to an EQ of some kind. There's many 1/2 din EQs avaliable out there that will take lower voltage in and bump it to a higher voltage out.

          Thanks for the reply.

          Is this really the only way of doing it? It seems pretty expensive. I'm not saying I want to have bad quality, as I have spent over 6000 on my home stereo system, but is the quality from the onboard sound that bad? The carPC will mounted only inches from the amplifiers, so I thought that the noise pick-up would be fairly small.

          As the car PC is going to be mounted so close, there is more chance of picking up noise running the cables from the PC to the dashboard (where the EQ would be)?

          Quality is a major concern with me, so any help is greatfuly recieved.
          ViVE - Volkswagen In Van Entertainment:

          VoomPC 2, VIA C7 2GHz
          7" Lilliput
          120Gb Sata drive
          1GB RAM


          [||||||||||] 100% - Planning
          [||||||||||] 100% - Software coding
          [||||||||||] 100% - Built

          (Always tweaking!)

          Comment


          • #6
            If you have $6000 invested in home equipment I think you will be sadly disappointed by onboard sound unless you ahve a board with the newer HD codecs. You might want to go with a good PCI soundcard or USB/external upgraded soundcard. You will notice a difference. With an upgraded soundcard you should be able to get the control you are asking for. All creative labs 5.1 products and up can do it, as well as turtle beach roadie (look in the MP3car store).

            It's not really the noise that is going to cause you a problem, but I fear it will be the inferior quality components used for onboard versus upgraded.

            Also, you can check out the review and car audio subforums for more info.

            ALso of good note is the FAQ subforum if you really want to use onboard sound.

            Maybe this will help?

            http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=84555
            System always under construction


            Comment


            • #7
              Have you thought about a seperate controller/line driver?

              This 1/2 DIN unit has 2 channel in, 4+sub out, its own fader/sub level control, 4 ch eq, and up to 13v pre-out to your amps.

              http://www.mobileaudiocontrol.com/pr...2&l1=17612&l2=

              $230

              http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_id=1272

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by durwood View Post
                You might want to go with a good PCI soundcard or USB/external upgraded soundcard. You will notice a difference. With an upgraded soundcard you should be able to get the control you are asking for. All creative labs 5.1 products and up can do it, as well as turtle beach roadie (look in the MP3car store).
                So, if I use a good Soundblaster PCI card and run that into my amps, that should give me good quality sound? I have also read on other posts that the Soundblaster software give you a lot of control over the sound that the card produces (ie. equalizers etc.)

                Also, does anyone know if it is possible to play a stereo signal and set-up a soundblaster 5.1 card to have it output the signal equally to the Front, Rear and Sub channels. As all I want to do in my set-up is to be able to fade the signal for the front speakers, rear speakers and sub.
                ViVE - Volkswagen In Van Entertainment:

                VoomPC 2, VIA C7 2GHz
                7" Lilliput
                120Gb Sata drive
                1GB RAM


                [||||||||||] 100% - Planning
                [||||||||||] 100% - Software coding
                [||||||||||] 100% - Built

                (Always tweaking!)

                Comment


                • #9
                  The Soundblaster software is not a viable option when compared to other options. It's a feature that's neat to play with, but that's about it. If you want TRUE good quality sound, the software that comes with the cards is NOT what you're after.

                  Again, if you go with a SoundBlaster card, or most any aftermarket card, you will have a higher voltage output. This is not necessary, but for most people on this forum, it is. The reason for this is that the higher the noise floor the less likely you are to have induced noise. While correctly running wire and using high quality RCAs can prevent this from happeneing, we all know that the average uses on this forum are not prone to pay attention to these things to the level needed.
                  Jan Bennett
                  FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

                  Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by portreathbeach View Post
                    So, if I use a good Soundblaster PCI card and run that into my amps, that should give me good quality sound? I have also read on other posts that the Soundblaster software give you a lot of control over the sound that the card produces (ie. equalizers etc.)

                    Also, does anyone know if it is possible to play a stereo signal and set-up a soundblaster 5.1 card to have it output the signal equally to the Front, Rear and Sub channels. As all I want to do in my set-up is to be able to fade the signal for the front speakers, rear speakers and sub.
                    The Live series of creative products is not quite as good as the audigy series. I competed in sound qualtiy contests using an Creative Audigy 2 which gave me pretty decent control over the level of each speaker and a time delay(THX control panel) that worked OK, but the 10 Band EQ wasn't good enough, and the time alignment/delay was not as precise as I really needed. The other problem is that their are two different CODECs used on the creative cards and it will give you inconsistent output levels on the front and rear/sub channels. One user on this forum using the LIVE or Audigy SE card reported problems with the sub channel being very "quiet".

                    Using CMSS management on the Audigy cards, you can get stereo output to all the channels. Or you can use the KXProject drivers for the creative LIVE/Audigy cards to do more advanced stuff. It works, but it's not precise and it really takes some playing around to get it to work the way you want. I don't miss it for one second.

                    The turtle beach Roadie also has a way to "copy" the stereo signal to all the channels. It also has a 10 band EQ on each channel so 5-7 10 band EQs. It is an external USB soundcard.

                    I retired my Audigy2 card last year and went for the Alpine PXA-H701 processor. The control and sound qualtiy increased significantly. However, RED and are on our way to retire our PXA-H701's, for a hardware/software solution. If you really want to see some cool stuff check out this thread.

                    http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=88359

                    For some better soundcards than the Creative products, Check out the Auzentech X-Meridian or the Audiotrak Prodigy 7.1 HiFi. There are reviews on them in the Review subforum. I am using the Prodigy Hifi (~$110) and its very easy to fade the level on each channel and have it run in 8 channel stereo mode.
                    System always under construction


                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I wanted to use the Voom PC case, but the only option for sound is USB or PCMCIA like this:

                      http://www.soundblaster.com/products...&product=10769

                      but, I may buy a bigger case and get a PCI sound card, like the Creative Sound Blaster Audigy 4, which I can get new on ebay for 39, this card seems to have plenty of software options available. For the price and sound quality, I don't think I could go wrong with this one!
                      ViVE - Volkswagen In Van Entertainment:

                      VoomPC 2, VIA C7 2GHz
                      7" Lilliput
                      120Gb Sata drive
                      1GB RAM


                      [||||||||||] 100% - Planning
                      [||||||||||] 100% - Software coding
                      [||||||||||] 100% - Built

                      (Always tweaking!)

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Wanting to chime in on this discussion...

                        Prior to installing my CarPC, I read most of the posts regarding headless installation. I also talked with a local installer who had installed some CarPCs. All basically said that I would need an cheapy Alpine amp and line drivers to boost the signal. I wasn't wanting to spend the extra $300+ for this equipment. The card had a factory amp, why couldn't I use it?

                        The best thing to do is experiment. I know very little about car stereos but this is a hobby and built on trial and error. I ended up taking the motherboard sound, splitting it into a left and right signals, running it through a ground loop isolator, then splitting each left and right for front and rear (this setup loses fader capabilities), then to the factory amp. The factory amp has a built in crossover which split out the highs and lows, then to the factory speakers. The sound quality is just as good as the factory which was MY goal. I did not desire 5.1 as most cars are to small to really get the full effect, and the only real application is for movies.

                        Start at the lowest common denominator and work up from there until you are happy with the result. You must be willing to experiment, if not, it is really going to kill you when selecting a front end and skin!!!
                        The most exciting phrase to hear in science...is not Eureka! (I found it!) but rather, "hmm.... that's funny...." - Isaac Asimov

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          toones, where are you located and what shop/installer was this?
                          Jan Bennett
                          FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

                          Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I am in San Diego. The shop is called Pacesetter Stereo, technically in El Cajon California.
                            The most exciting phrase to hear in science...is not Eureka! (I found it!) but rather, "hmm.... that's funny...." - Isaac Asimov

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X